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Old 09-13-2005, 10:32 AM   #31
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hey random
I am your father, Luke. Give in to the dark side of the force, you knob.
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:35 AM   #32
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I spent some time on a GP3300 4 cell pack of mine. I have 3 batts, two were giving me numbers of 2900+ and one at 2500. The 2500, i cycled single sells, discharging at 10 amps, and charging to 5 amps. The cells were pretty warm but you could still hold them. I noticed 3 cells gave good numbers but one cell was like 2400. so i cycled this cell again, got 2500, so i decided to discharge the cells seperately, and recharge at 6 amps, well it seemd to wake the battery up. Rose to 2834 from memory. These are second hand pack also so im not expecting huge numbers, but 2500 looked pretty dismal. They should run fine for 1/12th scale.

Also if your after a budget matched pack, i recently bought two SMC 6 cell matched packs and they are great. Decent punch etc, but came in stick form, ill be disassembling them and making them side by side (got them in stick so i could use my F201). Ive really seen a good effect by singling out cells and working on them seperately. It seems to 'weed' out the crap cells and shows you just how good the rest of the cells are.

I have a new set of GP3300 matched 4-cell which ill be putting together soon. I love the numbers u get from the second charge on a new battery. I have a Orion VDS pack back home which peaked at 3800 on the second charge. This pack was absolute lightning compared to my used packs.

One question, the VDS pack was used for two weekends of racing, discharged, then recharged and stored in a desk back home in Australia. Does anyone see any problems with this pack? Its been sitting for about 6-7 months. Whats the best approach to bringing back life to it, if it is a problem pack?

Info on gear - Charger is a Integy 16x7x something (called a CDC) and will have a smart tray very soon.
Aaron "AJ" Freind
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Old 09-13-2005, 01:14 PM   #33
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I noticed that I need to sometimes flip the battery over to get all lights to come on. Be sure to note the battery bar locations, just flip over, not upside down. This approach has worked every time.
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Old 09-13-2005, 02:34 PM   #34
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Those pack you have, they are not really good, i assumed they are not match
gp3300. btw, hows your driving skill? you can usaully hang around with a
good driver with a so so battery if your driving skill is good.
unless they are all ripping.. then you are doom!

like a lot of ppl say in here, do invest a discharge tray!
it will help you equalize all the cell, so you can get a good even charge
out of each battery.

you want to charge your pack at 6amp, with 3mv peak cutoff. for gp3300
with temp around 130~140 when done charging... temp will keep going up
afterward because internal chemical is still moving inside the cell.

charging at 6amp will give you more punch when compare with 5amp charge,
down side is you will loose run time when charging at 6amp, becuase you will
hit the temp. cut off sooner. higher charge = more punch, less run time. and
it is other way around when charging at lower amp.

and yes, try to run your pack instead of just cycling your pack with your ice.
you want to feel each pack of battery. are they flat? or are they crap?
run them, then you will know.

for stock racing. pounch for the battery, a good stock motor are important,
but if you can't drive a clean lap in the track, they don't mean a thing.

those are my exp for noob, as I am still one.!

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Old 09-13-2005, 03:29 PM   #35
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Has anyone tried setting up a discharge tray for a stick pack? Ive seen it done before i left Australia. It was done by cutting back the battery shrink to expose the side of the cell. to explain it quickly, to get to the positive of the cell your discharging, you connect to the side of the cell above the cell your discharging. I hope that made sense lol

I was wondering why this isnt feasible enough for a company to bring out a stick pack discharger and equalizer. Is there a problem connecting to the pack on its sidewall instead of the bottom negative point? Or is there something wrong with the connection between the batts. Ive only ever ripped apart one stick pack before, and the connection strips of metal and very thin and cheap.

I would guess that if its ok to contact the side of the cell, I could make a stick pack equilizer, but just re-routing the connectors to pick up the side of the cells, instead of the ends of the cells. Any info is appreciated.
Aaron "AJ" Freind
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