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Old 05-19-2014, 06:46 AM   #76
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http://www.serpent.com/news/13756/Ne...S-planned.html
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:56 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
you can make this yourself, have seen it on marc his car on ets,
you put frontarms chubs and steeringknukkels in the back.
and use turnbuckles and connect to block to set toe-in, when the springs go in you get more toe-in, like a awesomatix, yokomo and xray where testing this too
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:00 AM   #78
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you can make this yourself, have seen it on marc his car on ets,
you put frontarms chubs and steeringknukkels in the back.
and use turnbuckles and connect to block to set toe-in, when the springs go in you get more toe-in, like a awesomatix, yokomo and xray where testing this too
Not something I've seen personally before. It'll be interested to try it. I'm assuming this will give better rotation and be good for tight/technical tracks.
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Last edited by dan_vector; 05-19-2014 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:57 AM   #79
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It will help most in low tracktion and it is most intend to have more forward tracktion comming out of the corner
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:14 AM   #80
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It will help most in low tracktion and it is most intend to have more forward tracktion comming out of the corner
Thanks for the insight. So will probably be good in the UK where our general level of traction is low.
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:48 PM   #81
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You can swap sides, and it allows you to remove a lot of the bump steer shims. I haven't tried it, but thinking about it just to see for myself.
Shims change for sure but also you'll notice the plunge angle going into the spool/diff changes as does the height of the bearing location in the hub. This should give you a similar feel as changing the diff height from low to high.

Just in case you fellow Serpent drivers don't know as it isn't really made public, but if you have the V2 upper shock bulkhead mounts, the ones with the 3 holes for camber adjustment, you can run your diffs in either the high or low settings. This can really free your car up in some situations.

And the rear bump steer, I'm pretty sure I mentioned it in 2012, but glad to see they are going to make it a tuning option.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:10 AM   #82
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Are the 3 and 4 hole pistons 1.1?
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:27 AM   #83
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Are the 3 and 4 hole pistons 1.1?
Don't worry about that!!!! Just focus on the build and the race at months end
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:38 PM   #84
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Are the 3 and 4 hole pistons 1.1?
Serpent pistons have 1.2mm holes!
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Old 05-23-2014, 12:35 PM   #85
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My kit is fresh of the delivery truck! With a long holiday weekend here in the states, hopefully I can get it built and let you all know how it goes.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:10 PM   #86
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My kit is fresh of the delivery truck! With a long holiday weekend here in the states, hopefully I can get it built and let you all know how it goes.
Nice, looking forward to seeing it on the track!
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:42 PM   #87
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As much as I want to stay in the original thread, it'd be confusing when new setups and all new features of 3.0 are posted. We'd have to mention which car we are talking about every time. Now in the original thread, although the title doesn't really say, everybody assumes that we are talking about 2.0 or sometimes TE. And some ask about FF specifically. But now with 3.0, it'd be better to start a new thread IMO.
---- UPDATE: I don't know why I thought the debate on whether to make a new thread for 3.0 was recent but I just noticed that you guys have already passed that stage LOL
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:07 PM   #88
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Some tips for the 3.0 build!

1. The manual says to thread the 3x8 "grub" screws into the arms, then attach the pivot balls. I prefer to snap the pivot balls into the shock parts first since you'll need pliers to do so. It is MUCH easier to pop them into place without them attached to the arm.

2. The manual says to assemble the diffs and belts, then attach the bulkhead clamps. The next step is the spur assembly. DON't attach the bulkhead clamps until AFTER you have the spur assembly in place. Otherwise, you'll be attaching them, doing the spur, then taking them off right away to do the belt tension.

3. Speaking of belt tension, the manual does indicate starting points for the diff cams (to set belt tension), but it may not always be right. I prefer to set it myself. The belts are a little tight initially, so set them a bit loose. After a few battery packs, re-check the tension and adjust accordingly, as the belts will have stretched out properly.

4. If you run on a super-clean track, you can remove the orange shields from the bearings for less drivetrain resistance. If you do, expect to do maintenance more often.

5. I like to drill a 1mm hole in the plastic shock caps. This makes getting 0 rebound incredibly easy. Just drill the hole at roughly a 45* angle above the bladder, just below where the pivot ball snaps into place.

6. Not necessary, BUT I like to use a strong 3x8 cap-head steel screw to pre-thread the plastic parts. The 2.5mm cap-head is much less prone to stripping than the 1.5mm "grub" head screw.

Hope this helps!
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:14 AM   #89
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I wander who has got the time to list the full parts difference (with part numbers) between 2.0 vs 3.0. Obviously chassis, bearing blocks, lower wishbones (hard v2), anti-roll bar mounts, motor mount etc.

Would be really helpful to someone who wanted to fully upgrade their 2.0 to 3.0! I just haven't he time at the moment to do so...
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:30 AM   #90
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How is at track?? Low or high traction track...
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