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Old 11-07-2014, 12:46 PM   #271
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2nd hand info, but I am told some of the Xray drivers were actually using 6 degree hubs angled forward to good effect.

Has anyone tried changing toe at the arm (similar to front arm sweep) with the same toe at the knuckle to get varying results? You could adjust for some amount of the width in that way depending on the effect. I got the blocks to run 0 and 0.5 but have not tried it yet. 0-0 will bind the hinge pins.
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:48 PM   #272
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Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
I am not any closer to an answer to the question if there is something strange with the diff housing I got with the 3.0 or if it is something wrong with my intellect I sent the question to Jirka working at the distributor in Germany but I have not heard back yet.

I am using a housing from a 2.0 car.
Not sure the actual issue, but I know we were comparing 3.0 out-drives to those from the TE and they are definitely different. I know there are a few different revisions in between as well.
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:23 PM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
2nd hand info, but I am told some of the Xray drivers were actually using 6 degree hubs angled forward to good effect.

Has anyone tried changing toe at the arm (similar to front arm sweep) with the same toe at the knuckle to get varying results? You could adjust for some amount of the width in that way depending on the effect. I got the blocks to run 0 and 0.5 but have not tried it yet. 0-0 will bind the hinge pins.
I have mounted up the RRS with 0.0-0.5 blocks but have not tried it on track yet. With that the width is 188 mm. Maybe it can get narrower with wheelbase settings.
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Old 11-08-2014, 02:06 AM   #274
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The problem that I am experience is that I can not get the pin into the hole in the outdrive on the "deep" side of the diff half. On the "old new" version of the diff there is two "higher" and two "lower" points where the X holding the small cogs is "sitting". Then you have no problem sliding in the pin on the lower points. On the new housing with the 3.0 kit all "points" for the X is high. I can not slide in the pin due to the lowest angle I get.



Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
Not sure the actual issue, but I know we were comparing 3.0 out-drives to those from the TE and they are definitely different. I know there are a few different revisions in between as well.
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Old 11-09-2014, 11:16 PM   #275
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I tried the RRS at a tight indoor carpet track with medium grip and I drive modified. Ended up using 0.5-0.5 block in the rear and 1 mm shims in front of the rear arms to get the wheelbase right. It felt ok but not a huge difference in lap times compared to regular hubs. My best RRS 5 minute run was equal to my best run without it. Best laptime a little better with the RRS. The feeling though is quite different. There is potential in the sytem but Im unsure of how to unlock it.
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Old 11-10-2014, 02:37 AM   #276
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Hi Holmenkollen, yes I am using 5 mm shims if front of the rear arm just like the setup sheet. I measured the rear width (from right-rear tire to left-rear tire) and it is 193 mm at the widest (rear edge of tires) and 189 mm at the narrowest (front edge of tires).
Wont the wheelbase be very long with this?
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:31 AM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
The problem that I am experience is that I can not get the pin into the hole in the outdrive on the "deep" side of the diff half. On the "old new" version of the diff there is two "higher" and two "lower" points where the X holding the small cogs is "sitting". Then you have no problem sliding in the pin on the lower points. On the new housing with the 3.0 kit all "points" for the X is high. I can not slide in the pin due to the lowest angle I get.
I will check some of my diffs this week and see if I can help at all. I know the 411/LE used V1 diffs, the TE used V2 diffs, and the Eryx 3.0 has the lightweight. I am not sure what the 2.0 used.

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Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
I tried the RRS at a tight indoor carpet track with medium grip and I drive modified. Ended up using 0.5-0.5 block in the rear and 1 mm shims in front of the rear arms to get the wheelbase right. It felt ok but not a huge difference in lap times compared to regular hubs. My best RRS 5 minute run was equal to my best run without it. Best laptime a little better with the RRS. The feeling though is quite different. There is potential in the sytem but Im unsure of how to unlock it.
Were you able to use the 0.5-0.5 without the pin binding? My hingepin is too long to run straight on the rear without some amount of toe.

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Wont the wheelbase be very long with this?
Yes wheelbase will be longer, but that seems to be common in many of the setups. My 17.5 carpet car is 5mm front, 1mm rear of the arm, and my mod asphalt car is 6mm front, 0mm rear. The longer wheelbase calms the car down for me.
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:15 PM   #278
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The 2.0 kit runs the v3 diff. The v1 and v2 diffs ran metal gears and the large gear in the housing was screwed to the outdrives. Thus the reason there are no pin slots in a v2 casing. With the v3 diffs they have pins holding the composite gears in place. We used much lighter oils and sometimes only 2 satellite gears in the metal diffs. The new composite diffs are 10x better than the old ones due to the weight savings alone. Metal gear diffs are very good for putty or heavy oils for a front diff.
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:20 PM   #279
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
The 2.0 kit runs the v3 diff. The v1 and v2 diffs ran metal gears and the large gear in the housing was screwed to the outdrives. Thus the reason there are no pin slots in a v2 casing. With the v3 diffs they have pins holding the composite gears in place. We used much lighter oils and sometimes only 2 satellite gears in the metal diffs. The new composite diffs are 10x better than the old ones due to the weight savings alone. Metal gear diffs are very good for putty or heavy oils for a front diff.
I've been running putty in v3 diffs for months now. Always in stock, probably a third of the time in mod, and never had issues with the plastic gears!
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Old 11-11-2014, 11:16 PM   #280
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I've been running putty in v3 diffs for months now. Always in stock, probably a third of the time in mod, and never had issues with the plastic gears!
I'm sorry but where did I say the new diffs were bad???

Interestingly the latest diff I just bought had black orings for the diff case and the main oring for the body feels different to the packet of ones I have here.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:06 AM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
The problem that I am experience is that I can not get the pin into the hole in the outdrive on the "deep" side of the diff half. On the "old new" version of the diff there is two "higher" and two "lower" points where the X holding the small cogs is "sitting". Then you have no problem sliding in the pin on the lower points. On the new housing with the 3.0 kit all "points" for the X is high. I can not slide in the pin due to the lowest angle I get.
I went threw all my diffs this weekend, and I don't have one that doesn't have deep and shallow pockets for the pins. So not sure what you ended up with there, maybe a defective part from the factory?

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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
Were you able to use the 0.5-0.5 without the pin binding? My hingepin is too long to run straight on the rear without some amount of toe.

Yes wheelbase will be longer, but that seems to be common in many of the setups. My 17.5 carpet car is 5mm front, 1mm rear of the arm, and my mod asphalt car is 6mm front, 0mm rear. The longer wheelbase calms the car down for me.
I have my car setup with .5/.5 right now, I haven't run it yet, but I get no bind issues. The arms are very close to the lower bearing bulkheads, so make sure you have the extra arm flashing trimmed for good clearance. Not sure what to expect from this though, as the car will be narrower, but wonder what taking the rear arm sweep out of it will do? Also have to remember that that lower shock point moves inboard more with this setting so may have to play with shock angle. It definitely get the axles deeper into the plunge of the outdrive. I also have a set of Xray -.75mm hexes that could get the rear more narrow if required. Testing tonight so should get some feedback.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
The 2.0 kit runs the v3 diff. The v1 and v2 diffs ran metal gears and the large gear in the housing was screwed to the outdrives. Thus the reason there are no pin slots in a v2 casing. With the v3 diffs they have pins holding the composite gears in place. We used much lighter oils and sometimes only 2 satellite gears in the metal diffs. The new composite diffs are 10x better than the old ones due to the weight savings alone. Metal gear diffs are very good for putty or heavy oils for a front diff.
When I run a front diff, I use the older ones as well, I like the steel outdrives just for the durability factor up front, and I think the little extra weight helps the car a bit too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
I'm sorry but where did I say the new diffs were bad???

Interestingly the latest diff I just bought had black orings for the diff case and the main oring for the body feels different to the packet of ones I have here.
I don't think either of you have said they are bad, I think Cody is just saying that you don't have to run the metal parts for a putty locker type diff, either will work very well.

I just got a used car and upon taking the diff apart, it also had the black seals. The satalite gears look to be a different material and the big gears where stripped, so I'm not sure if the previous owner changed out parts, or if this is a factory change up.



Hey Cody good luck in Cleveland, hope you and Paul (and any other Serpent drivers) have a successful race.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:51 AM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
I'm sorry but where did I say the new diffs were bad???

Interestingly the latest diff I just bought had black orings for the diff case and the main oring for the body feels different to the packet of ones I have here.
Easy tiger, just dispensing information. If I was attacking you in any way I'd address you directly.

@ Mr. Wishbone hopefully Paul and I will keep both mod cars in the Amain, and I'm feeling good about the stock car! My friend Adam (a recent convert) nearly put his in the stock Amain at the Halloween Classic and he hasn't been doing TC very long, so I expect good results from him at Indoor Champs also
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:13 AM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I went threw all my diffs this weekend, and I don't have one that doesn't have deep and shallow pockets for the pins. So not sure what you ended up with there, maybe a defective part from the factory?



I have my car setup with .5/.5 right now, I haven't run it yet, but I get no bind issues. The arms are very close to the lower bearing bulkheads, so make sure you have the extra arm flashing trimmed for good clearance. Not sure what to expect from this though, as the car will be narrower, but wonder what taking the rear arm sweep out of it will do? Also have to remember that that lower shock point moves inboard more with this setting so may have to play with shock angle. It definitely get the axles deeper into the plunge of the outdrive. I also have a set of Xray -.75mm hexes that could get the rear more narrow if required. Testing tonight so should get some feedback.



When I run a front diff, I use the older ones as well, I like the steel outdrives just for the durability factor up front, and I think the little extra weight helps the car a bit too.



I don't think either of you have said they are bad, I think Cody is just saying that you don't have to run the metal parts for a putty locker type diff, either will work very well.

I just got a used car and upon taking the diff apart, it also had the black seals. The satalite gears look to be a different material and the big gears where stripped, so I'm not sure if the previous owner changed out parts, or if this is a factory change up.



Hey Cody good luck in Cleveland, hope you and Paul (and any other Serpent drivers) have a successful race.
More rear inboard toe in will give you more grip and stability.
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:33 AM   #284
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I have an idea on how to get rid of three of the "issues", if it works I'll post some pics.
Without some major re-manufacturing of parts all three of my ideas where failures, or not viable with what we have available at the moment. One option I'm still considering is re-drilling a front arm to re-located the outer pin about 1mm inboard. Just so happens the hole for the pin lock screw is a perfect candidate, the only other problem with this is the lower shock mount hole is really in the wrong place so I would have to make something to re-locate this. I still don't like the C-hub being so tall and having to compensate the roll center settings because of this. More rambling on, then anything.

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More rear inboard toe in will give you more grip and stability.
So I ran the .5/.5 yesterday and this setting created a big push issue from mid corner out and wasn't very stable, almost fighting the car too much to get a fast lap in. Played with this quite a lot last night, and my final setting which netted me a 0.23 improvement over the .5/.5 setting was going back to the .5/3.5. I also lowered the rear roll center to 5mm inner, and finally went to the Xray -.75 hexes. The car was consistently faster and much easier to drive. I did have to add 1mm to the ackerman setting, but this was just trying to tighten up the exit off for some fine tuning, but the car felt pretty good.
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:37 PM   #285
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Thinking about trying one of the option CF bottom chassis plates on my 3.0. I notice the 2.0mm plate is labelled as "hard" whereas the 2.25mm doesn't have a description so I'm assuming the 2.25mm plate is the more flexible of the two?

Also, would like to hear feedback from anyone who has tried either of the CF chassis and what they thought compared to the standard alu chassis?

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