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Old 07-06-2014, 10:43 AM   #166
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I ran my convert for the first time yesterday. I built it up with just the chassis, new arms and motor mount from the v3 and the rest from a 2.0. I put the kit set up and found the car very twitchy on the low grip asphalt I was running. I think this was a combination of the hard plastics and roll centres designed for higher grip. I changed shock positions, 4 hole delrin pistons, ride red springs and a roll centre change and the car is pretty good. I'm contemplating running medium plastics and stiffen the car back up again.

The new chassis is super sensitive to changes. I found it very easy to drive consistently fast. I have only 12 packs under the chassis and it's not so shiney anymore. Not sure if I'm going to bother rebuilding my carbon chassis back up as the grip is going to go thru the roof at my track eventually.

I give the alu chassis 3 thumbs up!

I'd also like to add that the LTCR IMO is not all it's cracked up to be. The extra steering comes at the expense of rear grip and I've never struggled with steering on this car. Speed 6 all the way here. I am keen to test the new GX though.
I personally think the GX is the easiest of the 3 Protoform bodies to drive on the new car!
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:12 PM   #167
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Ran the 3.0 today in Blinky 17.5 today for a qual. I ran kit set up with the active rear toe setup. It was money! Car was very planned and fast. I run a a med traction flowing asphalt track.

2 thumbs up.
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:33 AM   #168
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What size are the holes in the pistons? 1.1 mm?
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:37 PM   #169
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So I've been running the car for last couple months on carpet and have a pretty decent setup. The car just seems to dampen abrupt direction changes which has been making the car easier to drive.

One thing I have been doing, that you can do on any of the cars is, I don't use the battery graphite hold downs, just the tape holders. To keep the batteries in, I have tried small pieces of double sided tape, which after a while get fuzzed up and need to be replaced. So lately I have been using just a small amount of yellow poster puddy at each end of the battery. I take a small amount and put into a small noodle shape and have it at each end of the pack and then tape it down. The battery doesn't seem to move so far and the puddy lets you have the pack sit a little flatter in the chassis. Seems like all my packs have the slightest amount of bulge to them and this takes the "rock" out of the pack when taped into the chassis. The puddy is very re-usable as well. (This is the stuff that you use to put posters up on the wall without using glues or tacks.)
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:23 PM   #170
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So I've been running the car for last couple months on carpet and have a pretty decent setup. The car just seems to dampen abrupt direction changes which has been making the car easier to drive.

One thing I have been doing, that you can do on any of the cars is, I don't use the battery graphite hold downs, just the tape holders. To keep the batteries in, I have tried small pieces of double sided tape, which after a while get fuzzed up and need to be replaced. So lately I have been using just a small amount of yellow poster puddy at each end of the battery. I take a small amount and put into a small noodle shape and have it at each end of the pack and then tape it down. The battery doesn't seem to move so far and the puddy lets you have the pack sit a little flatter in the chassis. Seems like all my packs have the slightest amount of bulge to them and this takes the "rock" out of the pack when taped into the chassis. The puddy is very re-usable as well. (This is the stuff that you use to put posters up on the wall without using glues or tacks.)
What's your carpet setup look like?

I've been liking soft RSD/XRAY springs, long wheelbase, longer front camber links, and the rear arms .5mm higher than the front. Super stable on throttle!
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:05 AM   #171
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What's your carpet setup look like?

I've been liking soft RSD/XRAY springs, long wheelbase, longer front camber links, and the rear arms .5mm higher than the front. Super stable on throttle!
I don't have it posted on a setup sheet, but, for our track configuration, small, tight, mid/high traction track. I'm on Yokomo pink/blue springs, short links front and back, .5mm lower rc settings front and back. .5mm antidive, 6* c-hubs. The wheelbase is longer, but not full long, and its shifted to the rear.
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:29 AM   #172
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Has anybody tried the RRS System (Reactive Rear Steering) Kit (#401618) on their Eryx 3.0 (or 2.0)? What are your thoughts?
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:51 PM   #173
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Has anybody tried the RRS System (Reactive Rear Steering) Kit (#401618) on their Eryx 3.0 (or 2.0)? What are your thoughts?
Yes on my 3.0. So far outdoors it's proved to make my car rotate much faster in tight corners but become very nervous at high speed even more so when it's windy. I personally don't like it at all outdoors on asphalt.

I do however think it'll gain most advantage indoors on tight carpet tracks and so I'll be giving it another try during the winter indoors!
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:23 PM   #174
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Looking to pick a couple of 3.0 to run at iic. Let me know what you have.
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:30 PM   #175
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Looking to pick a couple of 3.0 to run at iic. Let me know what you have.
I don't have any for sale personally but I'm sure you'll be very happy with the car! I love mine! I did see a couple ads here on rctech for 3.0's for sale I'd go on over and run a search to see if those are still available.

Quick search and here it is! Serpent Eryx 3.0 FS
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Old 08-18-2014, 12:19 PM   #176
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So update on my 3.0. So far it has been really good. Setup currently for mod TC running asphalt in prep for Kissimmee in October. Got it out for a second run over the weekend and on the new Worlds tires (Hot Race 32's). Temps in the high 80's and low 90's, we have had good luck with Sorex 36's and the Team Power's Nats tire.

Car felt a little loose on the rear with the new tires, especially on power, but mostly in just a couple sections of the track. Decreased the front droop by .5mm, increased rear camber from 1.5 to 2mm, and went to black springs all around (had them on the front, had gray on the rear). Car is excellent, easy to drive, and very confident. Had a motor issue (new motor, the rotor magnet separated from the shaft), and had to drop back down to a 4.5t (had a 4.0), but car still drove remarkable.

Track is pretty flowing, so have not tried the RRS. Friend who is running an ARC tried their version and did not like it on the asphalt. I will say with the aluminum chassis, split blocks and flex deck, the car is very planted in the corners. Durability is top notch as well. I had a tire come apart at speed down the back straight, the insert actually came out, front end dug in, and the car flipped and rolled the remaining 40+ feet down the straight. Did not break a thing. Odd to watch your insert rolling down the track next to your flipping car.

Like others, I am running a little longer wheel base (rear end 4mm spacers in front of the arm, 2mm behind the arm) and that settled the car down, though the "esses" the car is slower to transition, it is better everywhere else on the track.

Love the 3.0 though, wonderful upgrade from the 411LE.
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Old 08-19-2014, 02:45 AM   #177
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Hey guys, I finally get my full 3.0 kit tomorrow just in time for my state titles next weekend. Can't wait to build one in full. I've been running a 2.0 with the new chassis, motor mount and hard plastics with great success. I had one of the top local sponsored guys say he thinks serpent is the only company to get the alu chassis right. I'd have to agree seeing I can pump out 0.2 consistency runs a lot easier than any car I've ever driven. My current hot lap is a 13.2 and I'm chasing 0.2 per lap. It's all in the set up as I know I've found the optimum gearing and timing for the motors I've got. The fast interstaters are going to bring the heat so any tips on the below id love to hear your thoughts.

The Track is tight indoor asphalt with medium grip and at least a 60ft straight. It's the end of winter here but I'm only talking temps of 12c/50f at night and around 21c/70f during the day ATM.

I had a set up on the old car not far from kit with the only changes being 2mm long rear wheelbase, long rear links,400 4 hole shocks and 2k diff. So I transferred that over and hadn't really messed with the set up too much. I'm running 0/4mm camber link shimming outside inside on the front and 4/2.5mm shimming outside inside on the rear. I'll finally get my hands on a GX body this week as I've mainly been running the LTCR body. With this new car I find the std Mazda speed 6 to be a bit numb on asphalt. Are you guys mounting your bodies standard, forwards or back on the car? I've got mines mounted about 5 to 8mm forward. I do like a car that steers on the nose a bit.

So last weekend we had a practice with timing running. My laps were floating around the 13.4 to 13.3 mark no matter what slight changes I made to the set up. I played with the arm pin heights with mixed results. If any others have played with the pin heights and can share some thoughts it would be appreciated. I liked how it unlocked the car but didn't appreciate the floaty feeling I had on the big sweeper. Any Other set up changes I should think about to cure this? I often forget how a simple Camber change can help sometimes. Roll center? I feel this higher pin height can be faster but I've only got a 3 hr practice session this weekend before the event to practice and want to break in a new car and also test a few more things.

The other fast guys say Maybe I need to up the diff weight. Some guys are running up to 5k in 13.5 blinky and 10k in mod. Thoughts of diff weights are appreciated. I don't like a pushy car which I find upping the weight does. They are also running down to 2 degrees of rear toe to gain top end but I have sacrificed a bit of that to gain massive time in the twisty sections of the track. Do you run guys thinner oil in cooler temps? Mainly due to the temps I've been dropping my oil weight and upping the springs too and I'm now running 350 oil with green front and black rear springs. I Can push super hard with this spring combo and not suffer any loss of direction change.

Droop is another tuning option I've been messing with. We start racing at 6pm and our track goes from warm to cold at night. Anyone's thought on changing droop to suit track conditions? More front vs rear? Less vs more? I like how sharp the car becomes the less droop I run but also really like how running a lot of droop can show off how the chassis flexes thru the corner. I tend to run a touch more droop front than rear. 5.8/6 fr ride height with 3/2.5 fr droop. What kind of droop settings are working for you?

Thanks in advance for any replies. Regards Benzaah.
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:58 AM   #178
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Hey guys, I finally get my full 3.0 kit tomorrow just in time for my state titles next weekend. Can't wait to build one in full. I've been running a 2.0 with the new chassis, motor mount and hard plastics with great success. I had one of the top local sponsored guys say he thinks serpent is the only company to get the alu chassis right. I'd have to agree seeing I can pump out 0.2 consistency runs a lot easier than any car I've ever driven. My current hot lap is a 13.2 and I'm chasing 0.2 per lap. It's all in the set up as I know I've found the optimum gearing and timing for the motors I've got. The fast interstaters are going to bring the heat so any tips on the below id love to hear your thoughts.

The Track is tight indoor asphalt with medium grip and at least a 60ft straight. It's the end of winter here but I'm only talking temps of 12c/50f at night and around 21c/70f during the day ATM.

I had a set up on the old car not far from kit with the only changes being 2mm long rear wheelbase, long rear links,400 4 hole shocks and 2k diff. So I transferred that over and hadn't really messed with the set up too much. I'm running 0/4mm camber link shimming outside inside on the front and 4/2.5mm shimming outside inside on the rear. I'll finally get my hands on a GX body this week as I've mainly been running the LTCR body. With this new car I find the std Mazda speed 6 to be a bit numb on asphalt. Are you guys mounting your bodies standard, forwards or back on the car? I've got mines mounted about 5 to 8mm forward. I do like a car that steers on the nose a bit.

So last weekend we had a practice with timing running. My laps were floating around the 13.4 to 13.3 mark no matter what slight changes I made to the set up. I played with the arm pin heights with mixed results. If any others have played with the pin heights and can share some thoughts it would be appreciated. I liked how it unlocked the car but didn't appreciate the floaty feeling I had on the big sweeper. Any Other set up changes I should think about to cure this? I often forget how a simple Camber change can help sometimes. Roll center? I feel this higher pin height can be faster but I've only got a 3 hr practice session this weekend before the event to practice and want to break in a new car and also test a few more things.

The other fast guys say Maybe I need to up the diff weight. Some guys are running up to 5k in 13.5 blinky and 10k in mod. Thoughts of diff weights are appreciated. I don't like a pushy car which I find upping the weight does. They are also running down to 2 degrees of rear toe to gain top end but I have sacrificed a bit of that to gain massive time in the twisty sections of the track. Do you run guys thinner oil in cooler temps? Mainly due to the temps I've been dropping my oil weight and upping the springs too and I'm now running 350 oil with green front and black rear springs. I Can push super hard with this spring combo and not suffer any loss of direction change.

Droop is another tuning option I've been messing with. We start racing at 6pm and our track goes from warm to cold at night. Anyone's thought on changing droop to suit track conditions? More front vs rear? Less vs more? I like how sharp the car becomes the less droop I run but also really like how running a lot of droop can show off how the chassis flexes thru the corner. I tend to run a touch more droop front than rear. 5.8/6 fr ride height with 3/2.5 fr droop. What kind of droop settings are working for you?

Thanks in advance for any replies. Regards Benzaah.
Our asphalt track is more flowy, but I have been pleased with the LTCR body, and have actually been running the Serpent pre-painted body (accidents in mod touring tend to eat bodies and I am still learning the mod car) and it has been quite good. The ARC driver here prefers the Sweep TC body and the new Blitz body to the LTCR with better overall grip with both. I run the body in the middle, as I have not yet gotten to tuning the car based on being front or rear mounted. I do mount the wing as far back as possible and still remaining legal.

I have the extended wheelbase, but have not had the need to change roll centers yet. I am using 300wt with 3 hole pistons, and 3k in the rear diff currently. I had gone as high as 10k in my LE but did not like the feel. Was pleased with the 5-7k range (outdoor mod with ~110f track temps). That is the old V1, 2 metal gear diffs though. I am running 3k in the Eryx 3.0 diff and pleased with the feel in roatation and rear end stability. The ARC driver is running I think around 8k now, and I know at pre-worlds guys were running some up to 20k. With 13.5 and your cooler temps, I would not be worried about going any thicker then 3-4k depending on what feels good to you.

I went black/black on the springs and am pleased with the results. 2deg rear camber, 1.5 front, 3 deg rear toe, 1deg (.5 each side) on the front. 5.8mm front ride height, 6mm back, 2mm over ride height front droop, 1.5 rear. I used to run more droop, but enough discussions with friends and personal testing has pushed me away from that, especially on higher traction. Depends on how the car is acting though and if you need to control weight transfer. Keep in mind that we tend to think of droop affecting front to rear and rear to front weight transfer, but it also affects side to side. All stock Eryx parts except the hard Xray front bumper and the carbon bumper top plate (Serpent one). My ARC friend tried their rear toe system and did not like it on our asphalt track, though I will set up the RRS on my carpet car and see.

Of all of the Serpents I have owned, the Eryx 3.0 is the best out of the box with the stock setup that I have driven, with maybe the exception of the Spyder mid-motor.
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:55 AM   #179
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Of all of the Serpents I have owned, the Eryx 3.0 is the best out of the box with the stock setup that I have driven, with maybe the exception of the Spyder mid-motor.
My rm srx is an animal. My postie got a hug today. It's gonna be a long night.
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Old 08-22-2014, 03:19 PM   #180
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Still looking to purchase one asap
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