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Old 06-21-2014, 09:51 PM   #151
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I'm looking at getting some 13.5 motors to run blinky. I was previously using the d3.5 and Orion 17.5 when we ran boosted. The Orion's I have don't mount too well in the new motor mount and I don't have a vst2 to check the mount. I'm leaning towards the orca or the new hobbywing motors. Im after some recommendations on what you guys are using. I will be running on a indoor asphalt track with a decent back straight and tight infield. Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:53 PM   #152
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Default Serpent 400016 China version Carbon Chassi

I wounder what this is about?

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=16596
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Old 06-30-2014, 02:27 AM   #153
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Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
A 3.0 kit with the carbon chassis included instead of the Alu chassis. This isnt a new idea. There used to be US and EU versions as well when there was a foam and rubber classes.
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Old 06-30-2014, 02:29 AM   #154
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
I'm looking at getting some 13.5 motors to run blinky. I was previously using the d3.5 and Orion 17.5 when we ran boosted. The Orion's I have don't mount too well in the new motor mount and I don't have a vst2 to check the mount. I'm leaning towards the orca or the new hobbywing motors. Im after some recommendations on what you guys are using. I will be running on a indoor asphalt track with a decent back straight and tight infield. Any thoughts are appreciated.
I was running the control ORCA 13.5t at the TITC race in February. I really liked the motor and it handled boost amazingly well with sensible temperatures being produced. I've not run it blinky but it was a very quick motor.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:57 AM   #155
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A 3.0 kit with the carbon chassis included instead of the Alu chassis. This isnt a new idea. There used to be US and EU versions as well when there was a foam and rubber classes.
I understand, but you start to wounder which one to get frist
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:44 AM   #156
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I understand, but you start to wounder which one to get frist
Go with the current trend of Alu first I've found the new chassis really very consistent. I haven't been quicker with it yet but the car is definitely easier to drive than my 2.0 was. I have my 2.0 chassis to back to back when I get time.

I don't know if the Chinese version is from serpent or if the distributor over there is just swapping out the Alu chassis with a carbon chassis?
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:15 PM   #157
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Questions?? which body

I run on a medium grip asphalt track, Smooth surface, 150'x75', in 17.5 Blinky. Big & flowing. Oh yeah Sweep 40's (our spec).

Which body should I start with? Kit set up to start.

Thanks.
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:11 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by Joe Maxey View Post
I run on a medium grip asphalt track, Smooth surface, 150'x75', in 17.5 Blinky. Big & flowing. Oh yeah Sweep 40's (our spec).

Which body should I start with? Kit set up to start.

Thanks.
I think the LTCR would work well.
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:51 PM   #159
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Originally Posted by Joe Maxey View Post
I run on a medium grip asphalt track, Smooth surface, 150'x75', in 17.5 Blinky. Big & flowing. Oh yeah Sweep 40's (our spec).

Which body should I start with? Kit set up to start.

Thanks.
LTCR works almost everywhere and the kit setup is perfectly fine to start out. It's well balanced and safe.
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Old 07-04-2014, 01:18 PM   #160
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Default building feedback

I got the car yesterday and finished almost all but the shocks and bumper.
Man it was such an easy build compared w 2.0. Like Gary said, barely any trimming on plastics was necessary, harder diff cases which gives a lot better feel when turned in the self tapping screws, and pressed in bearing on the steering rack fixed the 2.0 issue. Even the ball ends were made much more accurately this time to the pivot balls. So unlike 2.0, no grinding was needed.
The only thing that consumed more time than usual was the floating servo holder. I put my serpent aluminum arm instead of the stock plastic and the clearance issue still existed. The arm(or the bolt head) was rubbing the holder. So I ground some edges on the holder and removed the spacer shims to move the servo forward.
I love the way the car looks. I can't wait to see her on the track this weekend.
One question: the split arm blocks in the front are 1.5/0.5. The default setting was not clear on which side faces lateral. Do u know? I just want to try the default set up first w 2000 diff oil.
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Old 07-04-2014, 06:10 PM   #161
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FF = 2.0
RF = 1.5

Is how its supposed to go at least that has always been the standard.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:20 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Maxey View Post
I run on a medium grip asphalt track, Smooth surface, 150'x75', in 17.5 Blinky. Big & flowing. Oh yeah Sweep 40's (our spec).

Which body should I start with? Kit set up to start.

Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
I think the LTCR would work well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
LTCR works almost everywhere and the kit setup is perfectly fine to start out. It's well balanced and safe.
I think the LTC-R is more of a asphalt body, myself, I did not get very good results with the LTC-R on carpet. (just did this test again on Weds) The Speed6 just works better for me on carpet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
I got the car yesterday and finished almost all but the shocks and bumper.
Man it was such an easy build compared w 2.0. Like Gary said, barely any trimming on plastics was necessary, harder diff cases which gives a lot better feel when turned in the self tapping screws, and pressed in bearing on the steering rack fixed the 2.0 issue. Even the ball ends were made much more accurately this time to the pivot balls. So unlike 2.0, no grinding was needed.
The only thing that consumed more time than usual was the floating servo holder. I put my serpent aluminum arm instead of the stock plastic and the clearance issue still existed. The arm(or the bolt head) was rubbing the holder. So I ground some edges on the holder and removed the spacer shims to move the servo forward.
I love the way the car looks. I can't wait to see her on the track this weekend.
One question: the split arm blocks in the front are 1.5/0.5. The default setting was not clear on which side faces lateral. Do u know? I just want to try the default set up first w 2000 diff oil.
Which servo are you using? I use a Futaba with a Xray servo saver, using the 1mm spacers for the mount spacing and I have no clearance issues at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
FF = 2.0
RF = 1.5

Is how its supposed to go at least that has always been the standard.
Yes, you want a .5 arm sweep.
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Old 07-05-2014, 02:55 PM   #163
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Default Changing chassis plates

Just thought I would throw these numbers out for those that are curious about the weight differences in the aluminum versus the graphite chassis cars.

My aluminum car with wheels on came in at 968 grams. Doing a straight chassis change out to a 2.0mm chassis, it now weighs 949 grams.

The chassis themselves are 65 grams for the graphite and 87 grams for the aluminum.

Now my Eryx 2.0 with 2mm chassis and all same electric equipment comes in at 980 grams.

Its very apparent that the lightened bearing holders are quite a bit lighter.

The only problem I ran into when changing out the aluminum chassis to the graphite chassis was the motor mount. The leg on the right side, where the head of the screw is used to tighten the center block is about .5mm below a flat surface. On the aluminum chassis this isn't a problem due to the milling out of the chassis for the battery, but with a non-milled graphite chassis there is no relief for that small intrusion. Rather than playing around with spacers and such I just dremeled a small half round relief where the mount touches the chassis. If you don't do this you'll also have to raise the upper deck by whatever spacing you decide to go with. The small relief makes for a very simple cure for this problem and won't effect the chassis handling.

On to the track tomorrow for more testing now.
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Old 07-05-2014, 03:27 PM   #164
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Thanks for the numbers! I actually had my car apart recently but had forgot to weigh the aluminum plate.

Using all stock parts, a liteweight body, and "typical" electronics my car weighed just a bit over 1380 (without adding weight). The car was balanced due to proper placement of the electronics.

I replaced all the steel screws for the upper deck, shock towers, swaybars, a few random pieces, and bumper with aluminum ones..... It shaved about 20g without effecting performance or durability. I ended up adding the 20g centerline on the chassis plate.... The car already has a low CG but I noticed a small difference on the track dropping it even further with that amount of weight. It is by no means necessary to change the screws, but if you have them available or need to cut weight it is worth doing.
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Old 07-06-2014, 03:30 AM   #165
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I ran my convert for the first time yesterday. I built it up with just the chassis, new arms and motor mount from the v3 and the rest from a 2.0. I put the kit set up and found the car very twitchy on the low grip asphalt I was running. I think this was a combination of the hard plastics and roll centres designed for higher grip. I changed shock positions, 4 hole delrin pistons, ride red springs and a roll centre change and the car is pretty good. I'm contemplating running medium plastics and stiffen the car back up again.

The new chassis is super sensitive to changes. I found it very easy to drive consistently fast. I have only 12 packs under the chassis and it's not so shiney anymore. Not sure if I'm going to bother rebuilding my carbon chassis back up as the grip is going to go thru the roof at my track eventually.

I give the alu chassis 3 thumbs up!

I'd also like to add that the LTCR IMO is not all it's cracked up to be. The extra steering comes at the expense of rear grip and I've never struggled with steering on this car. Speed 6 all the way here. I am keen to test the new GX though.
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