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Old 06-16-2014, 06:25 AM   #136
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Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...see2014051011/

I started with the second setup in the above link.
Changes I made: 1.2 rear bar, rear shocks in #3 hole and I was a little lighter on shock oil.

The car TQ'd and won mod in a pretty competitive field.
0.5/2.0 blocks in front? Or is that a typo? Otherwise massive inboard toe...
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:35 AM   #137
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I assumed it was a typo.
I ran 2.0-1.5
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:37 AM   #138
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Hi Guys, to me the 3.0 looks like a great chassis, i have always enjoyed Serpents kits and this one looks like its a step ahead to me. Will someone please post some pics of their chassis if you have any?
Reese, click here -->to see 28 pictures of the Eryx 3.0!
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:43 AM   #139
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I should be.........you?
Yessir!
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:22 PM   #140
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Originally Posted by Reese Bobby View Post
Hi Guys, to me the 3.0 looks like a great chassis, i have always enjoyed Serpents kits and this one looks like its a step ahead to me. Will someone please post some pics of their chassis if you have any?
Here you go.
Attached Thumbnails
Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-dscf0453-2-.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-dscf0452-2-.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-dscf0451-2-.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-dscf0450-2-.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-dscf0449-2-.jpg  

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Old 06-17-2014, 12:59 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Here you go.
Very nice
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:07 PM   #142
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Hey guys,

I just wanted to chime in on this car. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the kit. I bought one as a substitute car for a race series. It's durable and easy to work on. I misunderstood the setup sheet and completely built my shocks wrong. Even so, the car wasn't bad, even with the bad setup.

Unfortunately I'll be sending mine on down the road.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:12 PM   #143
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Hi Guys, thanks for the pictures. Much appreciated, was curious how it worked out with electronics.
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:21 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Here you go.
beautiful !!!

will you prefer this over 2.0 or TE...
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:49 PM   #145
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beautiful !!!

will you prefer this over 2.0 or TE...
Well.......I no longer have a TE, and my 2.0 is modified with a lot of changes, so its not a real good comparison of one to one. My 2.0 is setup with rear steer and I have been running it with the tall towers and long shocks. The car with or with out the rear steer has a very good feel to it.

The refinements of the 3.0 has really really cleaned up a lot of the little things that where not that bad but still nagging to most people. The biggest improvement is the steering rack which now needs nothing to make/have a very tight system. The thing about the 3.0 as a complete kit is that the chassis, although heavier, in combination with the lighter bearing holders, gives the car a different feel again. Its like its able to absorb better and stays flatter, but still carries good corner speed. The difference being that the main bulk of the weight is now very low in the car. So changing to some of the 3.0 options on a 2.0 hard chassis doesn't take full advantage of the "3.0 package", although if you did a total chassis plate change over you could get a pretty lite car and then just distribute weight accordingly.

The biggest thing about all the cars, SE,TE,2.0,3.0 is that they are short wheel base which I think contributes to the cars back end not feeling as planted as other cars. Just changing the rear wheelbase settles the car down and doesn't seem to effect the turn in that much.

I can say that just putting the 3.0 on the track I was able to better my best lap time, but also had a tighter consistent run. The car didn't feel like it had to be driven as hard to be fast.
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:57 PM   #146
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Good question. I have been running 4* with 0.5mm of anti-dive with the car. I did have 6* in my mod car with the same anti-dive, which I liked quite a bit. They where borrowed c-hubs so I had to give them back, but now have got a set for myself, so I will be doing some runs with them to see which are better.
Gary, It's sort of late response. Anyway, Wouldn't the car way understeer with 6 castor even with anti dive? Were you using gear diff? I can't think of using that combo in my car with front spool. May work in high traction track?
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:47 PM   #147
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Gary, It's sort of late response. Anyway, Wouldn't the car way understeer with 6 castor even with anti dive? Were you using gear diff? I can't think of using that combo in my car with front spool. May work in high traction track?
WOW, good call, that would be a yes to all the above. It was a very high traction track. 2.5 milliion in the front diff. The antidive just seems to calm the back of the car down. I wanted the understeer to get away from traction roll, just made the car easier to drive.
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:21 PM   #148
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WOW, good call, that would be a yes to all the above. It was a very high traction track. 2.5 milliion in the front diff. The antidive just seems to calm the back of the car down. I wanted the understeer to get away from traction roll, just made the car easier to drive.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:54 PM   #149
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Hey guys,

I'm new to electric. Any suggestions on modified motors? I'm looking for high top speed—not to worried about overheating as my runs will be mainly qualifying flying laps.

Someone mentioned this; Reedy Sonic 540 Mach 2 3.5 Modified 246 NIB. Any thoughts?
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Old 06-21-2014, 08:24 PM   #150
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Here is a decent starting point for low/med grip carpet that I've been using. My computer's being dumb with PDFs.....

FRONT
Spool, 1.5FF block, 1.5 split FR block (no shims under blocks), medium wheelbase, 2mm bumpsteer, 1mm ackerman, 5mm ride height, 2mm uptravel, 1.5* camber, medium camber link (4mm inner, 0 outer)
Front shocks - Yokomo black spring, 450cst/3hole piston, 0 rebound, shock in 3rd hole on tower

REAR
1k rear diff, 0.5RF block, 3.5RR block (no shims under blocks), fully long wheelbase, 5mm ride height, 2mm uptravel, 2.5* camber, medium camber link (4mm inner, 3mm outer)
Rear shocks - Yokomo black spring, 450cst/3hole piston, 0 rebound, shock in 4th hole on tower

If you can run the above setup with the RRS system it gets even better. Set static toe to roughly 2.5-3, and "compressed" toe to 3.75 or so. This will let you drive the car a little harder.

If you want a more stable car or a bit more push try these......

LTCR, Sweep/Sorex, front shocks to 4hole OR Yokomo blue front spring, 3.5* static rear toe

If you want to free the car up a bit, or the grip comes up well, try these.....

Mazda GX/Speed6, harder Sweep or Solaris Medium, .5mm shims under arm blocks, rear shocks to 3hole, 2* front camber, 400cst oil in shocks

I also tried Serpent Gray springs all around. The only difference I felt is that the car lost a tad bit midcorner steering but was a little more responsive all over. Black front/Gray rear would be decent on a bigger or more flowing track, but it took away the entry steering that I can't get enough of, which I like on tighter tracks. I do not have Serpent White springs to try at the moment.

My fastest runs were on the above setup with the GX, Solaris, 2* front camber, 400cst oil in shocks, and more rear uptravel. I drive pretty aggressively though, and was using handbrake liberally to help stabilize the car going into turns (which can be a huge driving "aid" on really low bite). On-throttle the car was pushy enough that I could drive harder out of the turns and through the sweeper.

Also, on low bite carpet don't be afraid to dope the hell out of the tires. I was cleaning with SXT, doping 15min before my run, then adding another coat about 3min before I went out.

I think that the lower the grip, the more important the tire/body combo will be, especially with regards to how you want the car to handle.

Hope this helps
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