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Tamiya TB Evo 6

Old 08-29-2014, 02:53 PM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by metalnut
What do you mean by light weight? Plastic gears as opposed to the metal ones?
I'm not sure what they're actually called. But I want to replace the steel parts that the dog bones attach to
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:15 PM
  #647  
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia
I'm not sure what they're actually called. But I want to replace the steel parts that the dog bones attach to
Ah, do you mean the cups? http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7270

That's part # 54543
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:26 PM
  #648  
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Originally Posted by metalnut
Ah, do you mean the cups? http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7270

That's part # 54543
That will be the ones. Thank you
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Old 08-29-2014, 08:43 PM
  #649  
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Juan

The outdrives don't affect much how quickly you can spin up the diff, but the metal gears inside do. The aluminium ones are nice but you need to use the plastic blades with them. If I was running in mod I wouldn't use those on the front diff (if you run one).

Either way, I think Tamiya cheaped out and took too much material off the ends to allow the pin to be inserted. They should have cut only a narrow channel for the pin rather than take off half the outdrive tail which weakened them unnecessarily. Maybe it doesn't make any difference in the big scheme of things, but I'm just sayin'.
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Old 08-29-2014, 10:50 PM
  #650  
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Originally Posted by niznai
Juan

The outdrives don't affect much how quickly you can spin up the diff, but the metal gears inside do. The aluminium ones are nice but you need to use the plastic blades with them. If I was running in mod I wouldn't use those on the front diff (if you run one).

Either way, I think Tamiya cheaped out and took too much material off the ends to allow the pin to be inserted. They should have cut only a narrow channel for the pin rather than take off half the outdrive tail which weakened them unnecessarily. Maybe it doesn't make any difference in the big scheme of things, but I'm just sayin'.
Thanks for the heads up. I just think the aluminum looks cool. I was able to install this gear diff in my 414
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:36 PM
  #651  
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas
That hpi motor maybe heavier the newer motors. Using a lighter motor then you are using know.may help . The new Trinity D4 is 6 grams lighter then the Killshot. Also what kind of surface and grip level. My EVO 6 handles great on our bumpy high grip 140'x70' fast flowing track . I like the EVO better then my 418 or 417v5.
Small to med carpet track very good grip levels. Have only run car twice so its goona be a few weeks to get use to it. Kit springs have tried hpi pink fronts silver rears seemed quite similar. 40wt oil all round 32 sorex, ride height 5 front 5.5 rear, shocks hole 3 in front and rear zero rebound, camber 1.5 front 2 rear 1 deg toe out on front. The rest is a stock from the box, well thats me if anyone has done anything different that works well im all ears
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:19 AM
  #652  
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What do you think I could sell a Brand New EVO5 for ??
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:12 AM
  #653  
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I scaled my evo6. Its total weight is 1369g ready to run, all steel screws, 321 gram R1wurks battery.

The battery side is light by 15 grams, especially on the RF. GUESS WHERE the weight is going?
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I scaled my evo6. Its total weight is 1369g ready to run, all steel screws, 321 gram R1wurks battery.

The battery side is light by 15 grams, especially on the RF. GUESS WHERE the weight is going?
Where on the right front are you putting that weight?
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Old 08-31-2014, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas
Where on the right front are you putting that weight?
On the battery.
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Old 08-31-2014, 05:26 PM
  #656  
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Just curious, how are you doing the corner weights? With the arms locked somehow, eliminating spring preload from the equation?
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by metalnut
Just curious, how are you doing the corner weights? With the arms locked somehow, eliminating spring preload from the equation?
With scales.

Why would you lock out the spring preload? The whole reason to corner weight the car is to set the preload!

I set the car up where it's ready to run, set the ride height, and then weigh it. You can see where the light corner is. In the evo6, it's actually the LR that's heavy. Since I can't get weight out of the LR, I add some back to the RF (because the car is underweight as it is).

For users that have no idea what I'm doing, read
this.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:19 PM
  #658  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
With scales.

Why would you lock out the spring preload? The whole reason to corner weight the car is to set the preload!

I set the car up where it's ready to run, set the ride height, and then weigh it. You can see where the light corner is. In the evo6, it's actually the LR that's heavy. Since I can't get weight out of the LR, I add some back to the RF (because the car is underweight as it is).

For users that have no idea what I'm doing, read
this.
This is probably not the right thread for this, but... assume you locked out the shocks, by say replacing them with equal length turnbuckles. When you corner weigh the car like that, you get a true corner weight distribution reading. Now, when you do so with shocks in place, the corner weight readings are actually skewed to some degree by the imperfect rates of the springs. This may be minimal, especially if you use quality matched springs that are of close-to-identical length and rate. Proper corner weight is important, but making sure the car reacts equally left-to-right is equally important, imho.

So, my take on this is to corner-weight with no preload. Get the corners close to what you want. You can then detweak the corners with spring preloads as usual. I verify this second step with setup wheels, with accurately set droop, by lifting the ends of the car and verifying the wheels leave the ground at the same time.

Let me know if I'm crazy
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:23 PM
  #659  
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I need to try these tips! My car is very out of balance L/R about 55%/45% or 150g difference. Going to try a few things to even it out
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by lagcisco
I need to try these tips! My car is very out of balance L/R about 55%/45% or 150g difference. Going to try a few things to even it out
Wow. Mine was 15 grams.

Having the l/r balance not be 50/50 is not, contrary to popular opinion, the worst thing ever. What you are trying to do is get the splits the same, not just the wedge.

I can get my car to weigh right by adding "around" a turn in the LR spring and taking out a round in the RF. But then the ride heights are off, and the RF is too low to pass tech on carpet. That's why I set ride height first, then scale it, and then recheck it. I do it with the car set up to roll out on the track.

If you remove the shocks, add fixed rods,and put the setup wheels on, it might be useful for other activities (like, mocking up a corvette subframe to be installed under a 53 studebaker to get the ride heights right and adjust how the body hangs - seen that one done), but it assumes that everything else is exactly right (chassis isn't tweaked, has no flex, nothing is threaded in crooked). And then your going to have to redo it all over again with the it tires and wheels.

I started corner weighing my car when I was running direct drives on foam. If you hit something and bent the car, the scales would tell you where (assuming you knew what it Scaled at before it got wrecked). You could put the car back the way you had it with complete confidence.
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