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Old 12-16-2015, 02:52 PM   #1456
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A version 2 Evo is on the way from Tamiya

84427 TB EVO 6 Ver.II Chassis Kit

interested to see what this entails
Improved power unit

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Old 12-16-2015, 03:00 PM   #1457
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Improved power unit

Interesting
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:37 PM   #1458
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The rear of the car is pretty locked in. It does sometime have feel of being loose, but, that's only when the front carves in hard. I think I am going to go up a step on front shock fluid first to slow the reaction. As well as a small roll center change. Might also try a little less Ackerman. I have used steering expo in the past, but also found it to be a bit inconstant. It helps on the turns that the car digs hard, but forces me to slow up more than I want to make others.

As for the version 2 EVO 6. Money is on an inline motor mount. Outside of that many some aluminum bulkheads. Otherwise this car is on point.
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:04 PM   #1459
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Ok. I see pretty much everyone using Yoke springs. I use the RSD carpet springs. They are considerably shorter, but when I look at a spring chart they are the same rate color for color. ie blue equals blue and pink equals pink.

My question is, is there still a difference. I know the RSD springs are linear. Are Yokomo springs linear or progressive? Other than yomomo springs being white and looking pretty trick on the black out chassis, is there any reason I should get them over my RSD springs?
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:23 PM   #1460
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Ok. I see pretty much everyone using Yoke springs. I use the RSD carpet springs. They are considerably shorter, but when I look at a spring chart they are the same rate color for color. ie blue equals blue and pink equals pink.

My question is, is there still a difference. I know the RSD springs are linear. Are Yokomo springs linear or progressive? Other than yomomo springs being white and looking pretty trick on the black out chassis, is there any reason I should get them over my RSD springs?
Yokomo Blue: 5.75 coils/1.4mm (YS-14575L)
Yokomo Pink: 6.5 coils/1.5mm (YS-1565L)

Yokomo Spring specs

Don't know RSD specs
Have only used Yokomo springs on carpet
I'm sure they are different, not sure if one would feel the difference
Christian could perhaps weigh in on that ?
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:29 PM   #1461
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Yeah according to his chart on reflex racing site they measure the same spring rate
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Old 12-17-2015, 04:41 AM   #1462
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[QUOTE=theproffesor;14309240]The rear of the car is pretty locked in. It does sometime have feel of being loose, but, that's only when the front carves in hard.


A few of the guys I race with went to Cleveland over Thanksgiving weekend
and the traction up there was unbelievable. They were gluing their entire front sidewall and first row of treat to try and take out grip. The carpet was the newer CRC carpet which sounds like it has crazy grip.

I use to set my cars up to work with VTA tires that were well worn but I think it just scrubs too much speed. Early this year I made the set up changes to work with new tires all around and as soon as they start to break in and show moderate signs of wear, I switch to a new set. I have found this keeps my car and set up more consistent. I think the wear of the VTA tires can dramatically pick up grip and require major set up swings from new to old.

USGT however is a completely different animal. Anybody have any proven break in tricks that work? I just dremel off the seam and soak in a sealed bag of paragon for a week or two. I recently had a set of tires that was just about perfect when during a race it started acting really weird and making a weird noise. After the race, I picked up the car and found that I had cut a front tire somehow (debri on the track ?) coming up the side wall and about 1/4" into the flat portion of the tire and about an inch long! I hate it when I ruin a nearly perfectly broken in set of tires (on Exotek rims none-the-less!)
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:02 AM   #1463
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Anybody have any proven break in tricks that work? I just dremel off the seam and soak in a sealed bag of paragon for a week or two. I recently had a set of tires that was just about perfect when during a race it started acting really weird and making a weird noise. After the race, I picked up the car and found that I had cut a front tire somehow (debri on the track ?) coming up the side wall and about 1/4" into the flat portion of the tire and about an inch long! I hate it when I ruin a nearly perfectly broken in set of tires (on Exotek rims none-the-less!)
Most tracks would not allow paragon scent on tires, due to low odor rules

My USGT tire prep

Cut seam
Clean thoroughly with motor spray
Sauce SXT 1hr 1st run, will have to sauce a few times as the SXT soaks in
Clean with SXT, sauce approx 15-20m each run after
Should be optimal after 30m of break-in
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:15 AM   #1464
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My USGT break in

Clean tires with simple green and warm water
Heat cycle in tire warmers 3/4 times for about 10 minutes warm, then cool, then again.
Glue to rim
Spin up in drill on gravitys adaptor and buff with 100 grit sandpaper until most of seam is gone
Clean again with simple green.
HEAVY coat of SXT, place in ziplock bag.

On race day, coat 10-12 minutes before race, wipe off after setting for a couple minutes and your ready to race.

Race day over, clean after final race with tire cleaner, place in ziplock bag until next race.

Tires are very consistent run to run

As far as the cut tire, I've done that myself. Actually cut one from bead to bead. Just glued it back together with ca. Worked like a charm. Tires ran great for several more races like nothing was wrong. They got sloppy and I replaced them. But the seam never reopened.
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:26 AM   #1465
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....

As for the version 2 EVO 6. Money is on an inline motor mount. Outside of that many some aluminum bulkheads. Otherwise this car is on point.
That would NOT be an EVO6 ver2...

That would be an EVO5 ver1.5 (not to mention a very expensive route to go back in time)

I hope they dont sell-out and change the motor layout, that what makes this car unique (what makes it an EVO6). Take the time and figure out its quirks and make it better.
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:31 AM   #1466
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Thanks for the advice from both of you.

I will try your approach Professor on the set I purchase this weekend.

Also, must admit that your paint jobs are awesome. I've seen many of your past paint jobs and have always liked them but your current one is probably the best yet!
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Old 12-17-2015, 02:10 PM   #1467
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That would NOT be an EVO6 ver2...

That would be an EVO5 ver1.5 (not to mention a very expensive route to go back in time)

I hope they dont sell-out and change the motor layout, that what makes this car unique (what makes it an EVO6). Take the time and figure out its quirks and make it better.
Sell out? Nope. Just a much needed improvement to overall drive train efficiency. Awesomatix tried this arrangement a couple of years ago and quickly abandoned it. Too many problems with efficiency and the physics in the motor arrangement. Tamiya pulled the trigger too quickly and copied this design. Should have waited a few months more and copied Awesomatix's latest motor arrangement and they would have gotten it right the first time. Too much additional friction with the added gears in the drive train in the EVO6 design. The best design is always the simplest
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Old 12-17-2015, 02:17 PM   #1468
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Perhaps Evo-7 will have belt drive also
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Old 12-17-2015, 02:19 PM   #1469
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Perhaps Evo-7 will have belt drive also
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Old 12-17-2015, 02:47 PM   #1470
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Sell out? Nope. Just a much needed improvement to overall drive train efficiency. Awesomatix tried this arrangement a couple of years ago and quickly abandoned it. Too many problems with efficiency and the physics in the motor arrangement. Tamiya pulled the trigger too quickly and copied this design. Should have waited a few months more and copied Awesomatix's latest motor arrangement and they would have gotten it right the first time. Too much additional friction with the added gears in the drive train in the EVO6 design. The best design is always the simplest
Im not arguing the fact... my only point is that the lateral motor is what makes it an EVO6. Such as the TBO4.

there are ways to improve the current design layout.

do what you will with the TBO5 and EVO7 (TRF 420)
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Last edited by OSherman; 12-17-2015 at 02:59 PM.
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