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Old 12-07-2015, 02:51 PM   #1411
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The last time I had both my evo's on the rug I had different issues with both cars. I had 2k in both diffs. My 17.5 was stuck like glue with using slicks. Kept stripping Spurs. I got better Spurs to try this time. My usgt with the spec tires was way loose. Both cars set up the same. So I kept the 2k in my 17.5 and am going with the 1k in usgt thinking that it won't break free as much. Yes my thinking is similar to yours on what oil does what.
USGT spec tires need much more sauce time than slicks
My evil-six on USGT was locked in, with understeer
And that's mostly on a kit setting & 5k diff
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Old 12-07-2015, 04:55 PM   #1412
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USGT spec tires need much more sauce time than slicks
My evil-six on USGT was locked in, with understeer
And that's mostly on a kit setting & 5k diff
Your special though!😬
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:40 PM   #1413
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4 Race days on mine. USGT Setup, medium/low grip indoor carpet.

Running 7K in rear diff. Running 2nd hole from center on inboard ball stud seemed to get me the grip the car was missing. Very close to the Professors setup currently. Its fast, but a handful for a full round sometimes. Very happy with the car. It is very reactive to setup changes.
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:52 PM   #1414
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You guys are running way higher diff oil weights than I run. For USGT I stick to the 2k-3k range. I just rebuilt my second chassis for USVTA and put 1k in it.

What is the reasoning to hang such heavy fluid?
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:03 PM   #1415
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Default USGT Low Grip Carpet Setup

My car is probably different than most due to the active rear toe but for what it is worth, my car is pretty glued and rotates really well. If anyone sees anything really off with my setup from a principle standpoint, I'd welcome any feedback.


Well.....I'm having trouble uploading the PDF......

I'll try again tomorrow by filling out a paper setup sheet and scanning it. Editable PDF is apparently too large to upload.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:12 PM   #1416
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Default Gear diff

FWIW mine is not exactly filled fully and im running plastic internals and the diff is as old as the TB04 I raced last season it came out of.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:41 PM   #1417
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I run the plastic internals in mine as well. Don't see the need for the heavy metal ones in the slower spec clasess.

I am thinking about getting the carbon fiber shaft and the lightweight TA05 out drives. Has anyone else tried the out?
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:42 PM   #1418
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FWIW mine is not exactly filled fully and im running plastic internals and the diff is as old as the TB04 I raced last season it came out of.
Diff oil is all gone so now it's basically got 500wt in it. Lol
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:02 AM   #1419
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My car is probably different than most due to the active rear toe but for what it is worth, my car is pretty glued and rotates really well. If anyone sees anything really off with my setup from a principle standpoint, I'd welcome any feedback.


Well.....I'm having trouble uploading the PDF......

I'll try again tomorrow by filling out a paper setup sheet and scanning it. Editable PDF is apparently too large to upload.
Attached is an image of the carpet set up.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TB Evo 6-carpet-set-up.jpg  
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:09 AM   #1420
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Looks like a fairly standard GT style set up. Low roll centers and long links. And wider spaced inner hinge pin holders. I didn't see on there what kind of droop you're running.

I am curious as to why you went with narrow rear wheel hexes if you used the wider XA block to get 2.5 rear toe.
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:25 AM   #1421
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Finally, built my Evo6 and run it for 2 nights. Much louder than belt driven, as expected. The car runs straight without much trimming all the time, unlike some other shaft driven cars. As most of the Evo6's parts are graphite and aluminum made, I thought this is a pro kit car category in Tamiya. However, one of the local hobby shop's owner and a guy, who runs XRay T4 2016, mentioned that Evo6 is a mid range car and not a pro kit car. I really wonder how does one define whether a car kit is of pro type and is there a standard to define pro kit car? Anyone can explain? Thank you.
I have both an XRay T4 and an Exo6 converted car. Many of the same adjustments available on both cars and while IMO the XRay plastics are of a higher quality I don't think that in and of itself makes it any more a "pro kit" than the Tamiya. Enjoy your car, race it hard and try to learn as much as you can.

I think another poster summed it up pretty well saying it depends on what someone is trying to sell you. Not worth worrying about.
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:28 AM   #1422
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Looks like a fairly standard GT style set up. Low roll centers and long links. And wider spaced inner hinge pin holders. I didn't see on there what kind of droop you're running.

I am curious as to why you went with narrow rear wheel hexes if you used the wider XA block to get 2.5 rear toe.
Good question. I run 3MM front droop and 6MM rear droop. I am using the VBC wheel hexes due to the VBC axles being different than the Tamiya axles in regards to the shoulder depth to the cross pin. I tried using the Tamiya hexes but the internal diameter is different and the depth of the slot for the cross pin is different.

Now here is where it gets more confusing......

The steering knuckles are really designed for the DCJ's which have different dimensions than the standard joints on VBC. I am running the VBC optional 49MM aluminum axles and the cross pin sits 1.1MM from the bearing face on the steering knuckle (in the rear due to the ARTS). I machined a spacer that is 1MM so it fills the void from the bearing face to the cross pin.

Ultimately, the 1MM spacer combined with the 4MM wheel hex is equivalent to running a 5MM hex if I were to run the DCJ's. Clear as mud now?!?

I know I might be over-complicating the car and there might be no benefit from running the hybrid set-up but it has been fun and challenging to get all the parts to fit together properly and the car is extremely easy to drive and generates better grip with better corner speed than any of my other cars.

I generally like to have something different than most. I had an Awesomatix until everyone started getting them and I sold mine off. I am willing to bet that not too many Exo 6's with VBC ARTS will show up to a race. And, the car is surprisingly durable. I have not yet broken a single part on the car.

I would like to get a second one for VTA so I have two identical cars. I'm really impressed with the Tamiya / Exo combination. I've been watching for used a black edition Evo 6 for a while now!
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:19 AM   #1423
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I have both an XRay T4 and an Exo6 converted car. Many of the same adjustments available on both cars and while IMO the XRay plastics are of a higher quality I don't think that in and of itself makes it any more a "pro kit" than the Tamiya. Enjoy your car, race it hard and try to learn as much as you can.

I think another poster summed it up pretty well saying it depends on what someone is trying to sell you. Not worth worrying about.
Thanks guys for your prompt replies. I am curious and not worried as I am very happy running my self-built "virgin" car with minimal help. I learnt quite a lot out of building my car. I do agree that most parts are aluminum and carbon fibre and the amount of these parts are some how equally the same as other pro kit cars like XRay T4, TRF, BD7, etc.

I'm just wondering that the so called "pro kit" cars were run in competitions by professionals and hence the name. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:34 AM   #1424
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There is really no such thing as a "pro" kit. some manufacturers sell kits that have more upgrades than others. Example is the VBC ghost EVO, and Ghost RM. They are the same car, but the RM has some upgrades to it that don't come standard on the EVO.
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:56 AM   #1425
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Thanks guys for your prompt replies. I am curious and not worried as I am very happy running my self-built "virgin" car with minimal help. I learnt quite a lot out of building my car. I do agree that most parts are aluminum and carbon fibre and the amount of these parts are some how equally the same as other pro kit cars like XRay T4, TRF, BD7, etc.

I'm just wondering that the so called "pro kit" cars were run in competitions by professionals and hence the name. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Tamiya is a structured a little differently than a company like Xray that doesn't have multiple kits for car type. The T4 is the only 1/10th scale touring car Xray currently makes. There is no pro or sport level differentiation. Tamiya seems to cater to a much wider audience with a large number of cars of different configurations and price range but if you had to categorize their cars the TRF line would be the cars the team drivers are using. I think the shaft car racing revolution Awesomatix re-ignited just got snuffed out with the A800. That does nothing to invalidate the EVO 6 as a race car. It just tells me that top level racing is more about copying what works rather than innovation.
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