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Old 11-27-2015, 05:28 PM   #1351
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Ready for the track!!!
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:14 AM   #1352
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Ready for the track!!!
These Evo 6's stick like glue to the track!
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:06 PM   #1353
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:02 AM   #1354
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Hi Guys

This is the first help building a car, which is Evo 6. During the installation of my stabilizer rod (anti roll bar), I noticed that my suspension arms become stiff and couldn't flip well, even though I have used arm reamer to loosen the suspension arms. Please advise me and thank you in advance.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:36 AM   #1355
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Hi Guys

This is the first help building a car, which is Evo 6. During the installation of my stabilizer rod (anti roll bar), I noticed that my suspension arms become stiff and couldn't flip well, even though I have used arm reamer to loosen the suspension arms. Please advise me and thank you in advance.
I assume this is the front end you are referring to? The stabilizer ball cups that attach to the moulded ball ends on the suspension arms are tight fitting and will bind. What i did to loosen it up was enlarge the back of the ball cup (not the side that pops onto the arm) with a body reamer until it frees up. The set screws on the gearbox also needs to be free enough for the bar to swing.
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Old 11-29-2015, 12:14 PM   #1356
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I assume this is the front end you are referring to? The stabilizer ball cups that attach to the moulded ball ends on the suspension arms are tight fitting and will bind. What i did to loosen it up was enlarge the back of the ball cup (not the side that pops onto the arm) with a body reamer until it frees up. The set screws on the gearbox also needs to be free enough for the bar to swing.
Thanks for your reply. However, this happens at the rear. I loosen the screws (the 2 screws attached to the stabilizer rod) and it does help a bit. By doing so, I am not following what the manual indicated, which is 27'mm. Not sure if I'm not right track by doing so and not following the manual directly.
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Old 11-29-2015, 12:28 PM   #1357
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Thanks for your reply. However, this happens at the rear. I loosen the screws (the 2 screws attached to the stabilizer rod) and it does help a bit. By doing so, I am not following what the manual indicated, which is 27'mm. Not sure if I'm not right track by doing so and not following the manual directly.
Pop the ball ends off & on until they loosen up
The plastic is soft, they open up quickly
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Old 11-29-2015, 06:53 PM   #1358
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Originally Posted by Kakaru View Post
Thanks for your reply. However, this happens at the rear. I loosen the screws (the 2 screws attached to the stabilizer rod) and it does help a bit. By doing so, I am not following what the manual indicated, which is 27'mm. Not sure if I'm not right track by doing so and not following the manual directly.
Hi,
Silver set screws are too tight at the bulkhead/sway bar holders?
Too many shims on the hinge pins?
Ball cups not aligned with the balls?
Wrong length causing bad ball cup angles?
Wrong ball cups used?

If you reamed the arms you may need new arms now- the stock holes are perfect out of the box in most cases.

And if the sway bar installation is too confusing and is still tweaking/binding the suspension then it would be better to take them off completely as the car will run much better with no sway bars as opposed to tweaked sway bars. At least until you feel more confident in how to properly assemble them.
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:56 PM   #1359
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Originally Posted by Kakaru View Post
Thanks for your reply. However, this happens at the rear. I loosen the screws (the 2 screws attached to the stabilizer rod) and it does help a bit. By doing so, I am not following what the manual indicated, which is 27'mm. Not sure if I'm not right track by doing so and not following the manual directly.
You need to pinpoint the problem by assembling the whole suspension step by step while checking which part is causing it to bind. For example as said above, you reamed the arms but didn't mention if the arm itself was checked to be swinging freely.
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:07 AM   #1360
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You need to pinpoint the problem by assembling the whole suspension step by step while checking which part is causing it to bind. For example as said above, you reamed the arms but didn't mention if the arm itself was checked to be swinging freely.


Thanks for all replies. I think the tightness after installing the suspension rod (anti roll bat) lies with the length of the turnbuckles. Once I loosen it, the arms become smoother. And also one more thing, I have used reamer to ream the arms during the earlier stage of building up the kit. Upon hearing you guys' advices, I have 2 problems here I have to choose 1 solution as below:

1. Should I remove the anti roll bars and will it affect the car overall if I remove them?

2. Since loosening the turnbuckles help in smoother the arms, should I just lossen the arms and what effects will it cause? E.g. Camber, toe in / out, etc.

Please advise me again and thank you.
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:33 AM   #1361
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If the suspension loosens when you "loosen" the camber links, then put the inner camber link ball stud one hole inward. It will creat less camber gain as the arm compresses, but if you are new to this, it will be a change that you will not notice.
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:42 AM   #1362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kakaru View Post
Thanks for all replies. I think the tightness after installing the suspension rod (anti roll bat) lies with the length of the turnbuckles. Once I loosen it, the arms become smoother. And also one more thing, I have used reamer to ream the arms during the earlier stage of building up the kit. Upon hearing you guys' advices, I have 2 problems here I have to choose 1 solution as below:

1. Should I remove the anti roll bars and will it affect the car overall if I remove them?

2. Since loosening the turnbuckles help in smoother the arms, should I just lossen the arms and what effects will it cause? E.g. Camber, toe in / out, etc.

Please advise me again and thank you.
Just trying to help you out here, you can choose to do the above but it still doesn't solve your problem. Have you checked your build as follows?


1. After this step of installing just the lower arms, are they free? From my experience when building the kit, the 0.5mm spacers BB9 of the hinge pins caused binding as they were a bit too thick. I ended up using shims instead for reducing to 0.3-0.4mm.


2. Now moving onto the hubs, is the suspension moving freely after this step? There is a chance for hubs to bind here.


3. According to your description the problem may be somewhere in this step above. Before you assemble all the parts together here, lets break it down into smaller steps and checks.

3.1 With BC30 & BC16 assembled, is BC6 smooth if you pop them together?

3.2 Now pop the above assembly into the ball end on the arm (BB4 of step 14). Make sure you are using BB15 here as BB6 should not cause tightness if you follow the overall length of 27mm (ball links usually bind if the turnbuckle rod is screwed too far into the cup, which should not be the case here).

3.3 Now on the other hand, install only the rod BC28 itself (with 2x BC31) onto the gearbox. The rod shall first be centered over the gearbox by adjusting BC31, then adjust BC4 until it swings freely.

3.4 Now if everything checks out, connecting the turnbuckles to the rod by tightening BC30 should not cause any binding over the whole rear suspension assembly without shocks attached.

For step 19 in the manual, the indication of 1mm extension of the rod with BC30 should not be critical here, in general you want the BC6 turnbuckles to be at right angles (90degrees) with the roll bar when assembled.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:43 PM   #1363
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Selling my Exo-SIX converted Evo6 if anyone is looking. It's all blue option parts and everything from an original Evo6, non-black edition.

Exotek Exo-SIX Tamiya Evo 6 conversion.
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:43 AM   #1364
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So three race weekends (350+ laps between practice, quals, and the mains) on the Exo6 and I thought time for a partial teardown.

Diff still butter smooth and when I popped open the bulkhead, almost no oil leakage was present. I expected some as every gear diff I have ever built leaks a little on the first run or two, but then will stop once settled in. I have heard of issues with Tamiya diffs, but I don't seem to have them.

All the suspension parts are still slop free, no extra shimming required, and the shocks still feel great. A little slop has developed in the steering rack, but nothing more than I have seen on other chassis. I believe new bearings would correct it, but as long as it doesn't get any worse, I'm going to leave it be.

Drivetrain has freed up nicely, with near zero backlash, and has a pretty good spin time to it once the motor is removed. The only part that needed replacing was the outer bearing in the right rear hub. It had gotten gritty, but that's normal for me as that tire has a nasty habit of slamming sideways directly into the wall.

This car is a great car. Once the front hubs are replaced with the ones from the TA05, it is extremely durable.

I am working on a new carpet set-up for the new CRC black carpet. My current set-up sent the car straight into a traction roll (even low speed). I think part of it is my tire prep and over saucing my tires, so I going to alter that as well, but to get the car around the track I moved front and rear upper shocks out a couple holes, stiffened the front sway bar, and turned my steering expo down to 70% and I still couldn't drive hard into the corners.

I think everyone is going to have to rethink this new carpet. It's great. But it will take some tweaking.
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Old 12-01-2015, 01:23 PM   #1365
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Question for anybody who knows?? Can I use a gear diff up front on this car if yes which one spec r or tamiya??
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