161LikesTamiya TB Evo 6
11-06-2015, 11:59 AM
#1291
For the center gearbox, is there any way to secure the miter gear that is on the output shaft? By design its just being held in place by contact with the miter gear on the spur, wont the fore/aft play cause it to strip more easily?
11-06-2015, 02:35 PM
#1292
No i haven't really found any other way but shiming it so it doesn't ride against the gear box. You can use a steel miter gear that is stronger then the plastic gears. I have a couple k f extra steel miter gears they come 4 to pack and you only need one per car. Pm me and I will sell you steel gear if you are interested.
11-07-2015, 02:33 AM
#1293
I started both cars with this set up. Didn't touch the USGT car all day since it was working so well. Was having violent snap rolls with 17.5 and fought it half the day until I switched from sweeps to Jaco Blues. After that car handled very well with the changes that had been made.
Starting set up. For USGT
Shock positions fr-4. R-5
For 17.5 changes Dodge Dart body
76 spur 47 pinion
Front shocks RSD blue
1mm spacers under front pivot blocks
0 spacers under rear
1mm spacers on inner Ackerman steering linkage
3k diff fluid
Starting set up. For USGT
Shock positions fr-4. R-5
For 17.5 changes Dodge Dart body
76 spur 47 pinion
Front shocks RSD blue
1mm spacers under front pivot blocks
0 spacers under rear
1mm spacers on inner Ackerman steering linkage
3k diff fluid
would you be so kind and post the picture of the setup again? it seems that it is not availabe any longer.
thanks
aitutaki
11-07-2015, 08:52 AM
#1294
Sorry about that. Had to clear up my photobucket. It was getting full.
Here are both my set-ups for USGT and 17.5. They will both need some more tweaking, but they are good starting points and very drivable.
I measure drop using 10mm blocks under the chassis. Front is measured under the set screw hole in the c hub, and rear is measured under the center of the rear hub.
USGT
17.5
Here are both my set-ups for USGT and 17.5. They will both need some more tweaking, but they are good starting points and very drivable.
I measure drop using 10mm blocks under the chassis. Front is measured under the set screw hole in the c hub, and rear is measured under the center of the rear hub.
USGT
17.5
11-07-2015, 09:27 AM
#1295
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Did the body post position move from the evo 6 to exo 6?
11-07-2015, 05:25 PM
#1297
Sorry about that. Had to clear up my photobucket. It was getting full.
Here are both my set-ups for USGT and 17.5. They will both need some more tweaking, but they are good starting points and very drivable.
I measure drop using 10mm blocks under the chassis. Front is measured under the set screw hole in the c hub, and rear is measured under the center of the rear hub.
Here are both my set-ups for USGT and 17.5. They will both need some more tweaking, but they are good starting points and very drivable.
I measure drop using 10mm blocks under the chassis. Front is measured under the set screw hole in the c hub, and rear is measured under the center of the rear hub.
11-07-2015, 06:29 PM
#1298
You were right the 1k worked better in the diff for me. I tried the 5k and it made the car unpredictable. Breaking loose in some turns. Measuring droop from setup board to upper part of axle the way they said. Works out about the same with 5mm front and 4mm rear measuring the standard way from under lower arm to setup board or droop gauge. I ended up with 6mm front and 5mm rear using standard way. Cars are getting good but had a strange RX glitch that made my day challenging. Lol
11-09-2015, 11:32 AM
#1301
11-09-2015, 10:23 PM
#1304
So I was rebuilding my front end after breaking the second arm and steering knuckle from this past weekend. I also had my old ARC torn down for cleaning. Since the discussion of all the c-hubs breaking I thought back then I could use a ARC c-hub but the pivot shaft going through the arm is a different size. I gave up on that. But if you use the ARC arms, c-hubs and steering blocks all together it works. Even using the stock Tamiya roll bars they will mount up to the arc roll bar links that attach to the arms. With using the arc arms you can change the lower shock position because it has multiple mounting positions. PM me for pics! I can tell you that the arc stuff is like xray strength. I had only broke a couple of arms and steering blocks in two years. Even my dcj's from arc are the right length. I had to add shims in front of the steering rack to keep the steering links straight. That's it. Can't wait to try it.
