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Old 01-16-2015, 02:20 PM   #886
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Did you guys find that you had to make your EPA uneven - ex. 81Left/97 Right to make it even travel?

I have the arm perpendicular but with EPA's at 100/100 starting point, full lock left was making the servo howl a bit wheras the right full lock was fine, hence the uneven adjustments to the endpoints.

If I put the servo "horn" one notch the other direction, it just reverses the "uneven" travel before for the howl and gets the servo arm OUT of perpendicular alignment

SO -- just confirming that the EPA's are normally different settings on an ON ROAD car like this? I'm trying to be as exact as possible, but not used to it from off road

Thanks again for all the help from the experts here
81/ 97 is not shocking but is definitely a gap I would try to improve.

Don't you have a subtrim setting on your transmitter? This really is key. As you noted yourself the notches allow you to adjust the neutral only 1/25th of a turn at a time. The subtrim is here to get a "clean" neutral point with your regular trim still at zero.

To even your L/R throws you should play with the subtrim and the length of the servo linkage. It goes like this: lengthen the linkage a little bit, readjust you subtrim to get the bellcranks centered again, then readjust your EPAs. If the gap between L and R is greater than before, go back and shorten the link instead. I wouldn't over think it though, anything with + or - 5 clicks between left and right is fine by me.

Overall L and R throw is the only thing you can adjust when it comes to getting a symmetrical steering, but even if you get that right the symmetry will never be perfect. For all I know the servo linkage geometry of my car could result in one side having a bit more "expo" than the other, but since I'm not good enough to notice it when driving, and since there's nothing to do about it anyway, I just don't pay attention to it.
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Old 01-16-2015, 02:52 PM   #887
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81/ 97 is not shocking but is definitely a gap I would try to improve.

Don't you have a subtrim setting on your transmitter? This really is key. As you noted yourself the notches allow you to adjust the neutral only 1/25th of a turn at a time. The subtrim is here to get a "clean" neutral point with your regular trim still at zero.

To even your L/R throws you should play with the subtrim and the length of the servo linkage. It goes like this: lengthen the linkage a little bit, readjust you subtrim to get the bellcranks centered again, then readjust your EPAs. If the gap between L and R is greater than before, go back and shorten the link instead. I wouldn't over think it though, anything with + or - 5 clicks between left and right is fine by me.

Overall L and R throw is the only thing you can adjust when it comes to getting a symmetrical steering, but even if you get that right the symmetry will never be perfect. For all I know the servo linkage geometry of my car could result in one side having a bit more "expo" than the other, but since I'm not good enough to notice it when driving, and since there's nothing to do about it anyway, I just don't pay attention to it.
Good info ---- I do have subtrim of course --- futaba 4pksr ---- I think I had to move subtrim around 33R to get it LOOKING straight - again I don't have the car running yet so I'm just doing this by "eye"

Motor question:

Whats the difference?:

1 - http://www.horizonhobby.com/vortex-v...-175t-ori28295

2 - http://www.horizonhobby.com/vortex-v...-turn-ori28252
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Old 01-17-2015, 12:33 AM   #888
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Hi guys, I'm thinking about buy this car but I'm unsure about if that's really worth.
Well, I had a yokomo BD7 before (two years ago) and now I'm going to return races and I want participate in pro stock class (10.5/13.5). So is this my car? Can I buy it and put optional parts or simple spare parts of 418/419 to improve the machine? How faster can it be?
Waiting for your help boys...
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:50 PM   #889
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Can anyone verify if this kit is discontinued or not?
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Old 01-20-2015, 04:41 PM   #890
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Can anyone verify if this kit is discontinued or not?
The kit was a limited edition. A black anodized version is coming out in the next month or so. I suggest not waiting around when it comes out if you want one. Good luck.
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:11 PM   #891
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Can anyone verify if this kit is discontinued or not?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXELLR&P=ML
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Old 01-31-2015, 07:50 PM   #892
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Default Evo 6 Black

Anyone have a part# and price on the limited edition kit?
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:28 PM   #893
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Anyone have a part# and price on the limited edition kit?
Anyone?
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:42 PM   #894
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Item #84408

It hasn't been released yet so no price announced but one Dutch site has it at the same price as the blue version (€460).
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:50 PM   #895
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Hey guys, is it possible to mount the front shocks "inboard" like on the TB04? I wanted to be able to mount low profile bodies Lambo, Ferrari, Carrera GT, etc. Also, if this is possible, what are the advantages or disadvantages of mounting the shocks this way? Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:55 PM   #896
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[QUOTE=theclutch;13839230]Hey guys, is it possible to mount the front shocks "inboard" like on the TB04? I wanted to be able to mount low profile bodies Lambo, Ferrari, Carrera GT, etc. Also, if this is possible, what are the advantages or disadvantages of mounting the shocks this way? Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE
I don't think you can set up ifs on Evo6
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:33 AM   #897
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Hey guys, is it possible to mount the front shocks "inboard" like on the TB04? I wanted to be able to mount low profile bodies Lambo, Ferrari, Carrera GT, etc. Also, if this is possible, what are the advantages or disadvantages of mounting the shocks this way? Thanks in advance.
I too don't think you can run inboard shocks. The evo 6 comes with low profile shocks and the mount is pretty low. I run the Ferrari, Axio Corrolla body with no problem.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:15 AM   #898
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Dbl post sorry
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Old 02-18-2015, 05:17 PM   #899
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Old 02-21-2015, 01:12 PM   #900
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Any reason Tower has the original "blue" version at $559 and the pre-order for the "black" version for $514

Also, any guesses on the life cycle of the EVO 6? Aside from the black version, will there be any new versions or do you think they will scrap the idea and stay with the belt driven cars? I have one EVO 6 built, love it & about to grab another (if nothing else, for parts in the event they discontinue)

I love the 419 as well for easier maintenance & found the build much easier, but there is something about the EVO 6 that I really like ........
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