TamiyaW1688

iTrader: (16)

That should work without any problem.

blf

Have the servo at neutral position and I cant get it perfectly straight up?



Should I put it left (in pic) or one notch to the right - cant get it straight so what's the preferred "bias"?

niznai

Servo arm should be perpendicular to rod at neutral point, otherwise steering rack travel won't be symmetrical.

blf

That's at neutral so could you suggest a solution? It would be impossible to get it perfectly perpendicular with this futaba 9551. Since the ball stud is straight up will it work as is in pic?

niznai

Put the servo in the car in the correct position, connect the rod (link) to the rack and adjust rod length such that at neutral, the servo arm will be perpendicular to the rod and only after that push the servo arm on the servo splines. It won't be anywhere near vertical as you try to have it.

heretic

You have to fiddle with the subtrim setting of your transmitter and the length of the servo linkage to get a symmetrical result.

As Niznai said, the idea is to have the imaginary line going from the center of the servo spline to the center of the ball stud on the servo arm, perpendicular with the linkage. Your steering bellcranks also have to be centered, obviously. Once this is done you should be pretty close to a symmetrical overall throw. From there you just fine tune for each side with the end-point adjustment.

blf

Thanks Niznai and heretic - just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything with the servo horn not being straight up.

The only other thing puzzling me is the "glass tape" for batt - I have some sticky tack to keep it from sliding but no tape in kit? What is everyone using to affix battery and how?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Sliontec 19mm fibre tape.

You can get it branded as TRF, Hudy, Xenon etc etc.

ie: http://www.fast-webshop.com/tonisport/eshop/7-1-Xenon/27-2-Battery-Accessories-Tape/5/2109-Xenon-Battery-Tape-Blue

niznai

Why do you care if it's vertical or not? The point is to move the rack symmetrically, and when it's vertical it doesn't.

Either way, Futabas have 23 splines or 25? - either way, an odd number which means horns are bound to be centered to one side and off centre to the other side. I would hazard a guess this is by design, to create a finer adjustment when positioning the horn in situations where you can have it either way.

blf

I see it's just a roll of 3M strapping tape - how do you affix? Any of you guys running a long velcro strap with plastic locking buckle or similar?

blf

Eventhough it's 15mm, the tamiya blue trf tape is adequate?

blf

I don't care if it is vertical at all, it's just that the instructions from Tamiya show you should have it that way?

Futaba is 25 spline and i'm good to go on that front now! Thanks man!

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Make a "U" with the bottom of the U under the chassis and the sides through the chassis slots. Then wrap the two | | over the battery.

Same tape. Just 15mm and with a tamiya header card.

I think mine is 17mm actually.

blf

Did you guys find that you had to make your EPA uneven - ex. 81Left/97 Right to make it even travel?

I have the arm perpendicular but with EPA's at 100/100 starting point, full lock left was making the servo howl a bit wheras the right full lock was fine, hence the uneven adjustments to the endpoints.

If I put the servo "horn" one notch the other direction, it just reverses the "uneven" travel before for the howl and gets the servo arm OUT of perpendicular alignment

SO -- just confirming that the EPA's are normally different settings on an ON ROAD car like this? I'm trying to be as exact as possible, but not used to it from off road

Thanks again for all the help from the experts here

blf

Antenna mounting --- the Rx (these are the only ones I use) has a 5-6 inch ant ----- should I zip tie in a tube on the top deck?

Some other pics too --- size comparo to my 1/10 Proline Pro2 Buggy -





I know, the treads are backwards