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Old 09-20-2014, 04:51 AM   #766
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I took Rod Canare's setup off this thread. Differences:

Went to 40wt Losi oil all around (37.5 is about equal to what he has)

Yokomo pink f and blue r springs for carpet

out to the 4th hole on the rear tower

2nd hole from bulkhead on front camber link 3mm shim

3rd hole out on rear

droop 6 on front , 6.5 on rear measured with a droop gauge, car on droop blocks, to the bottom of the arm
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Old 09-20-2014, 09:45 AM   #767
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
I took Rod Canare's setup off this thread. Differences:

Went to 40wt Losi oil all around (37.5 is about equal to what he has)

Yokomo pink f and blue r springs for carpet

out to the 4th hole on the rear tower

2nd hole from bulkhead on front camber link 3mm shim

3rd hole out on rear

droop 6 on front , 6.5 on rear measured with a droop gauge, car on droop blocks, to the bottom of the arm
How are you able to use anything but the first (kit) hole on the bulkhead with the included turnbuckles? Aren't they too long for that? When I tried 3rd hole out I couldn't set the camber as the turnbuckles were maxed out in the ballcups.
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Old 09-20-2014, 10:11 AM   #768
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How are you able to use anything but the first (kit) hole on the bulkhead with the included turnbuckles? Aren't they too long for that? When I tried 3rd hole out I couldn't set the camber as the turnbuckles were maxed out in the ballcups.
Maybe he's using different suspension blocks
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Old 09-20-2014, 11:26 AM   #769
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Whats the price tag on one of these? And availability? I want one on my shelf.
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Old 09-20-2014, 11:28 AM   #770
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How are you able to use anything but the first (kit) hole on the bulkhead with the included turnbuckles? Aren't they too long for that? When I tried 3rd hole out I couldn't set the camber as the turnbuckles were maxed out in the ballcups.
Forearm strength? I don't think you could get shorter than the 3rd hole without different turnbuckles.
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Old 09-20-2014, 11:29 AM   #771
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Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
Maybe he's using different suspension blocks
b/b and xb/d
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Old 09-20-2014, 01:50 PM   #772
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Why do people still build turnbuckles by hand?

Chuck the ball cup up in a cordless drill, hold the tie rod and the tie rod wrench, use the drill to install the cup to the end of the rod threads. Reverse direction about 3mm and do the other side. Tie rods adjust easy, you can build seven of them in under 10 minutes.

I posted a video, which was wrong. Apologies. I'll get a good one up.

Last edited by CraigMBA; 09-20-2014 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 09-20-2014, 02:57 PM   #773
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Gentlemen, I have no trouble building turnbuckles. I dislike Tamiya ball cups, so I tapped these and they were butter to put together. It was the length of the turnbuckle I was asking about. The kit ones don't allow for anything but the first hole on the bulkheads, from what I can tell, maybe the second, but that's it. I'm a bit disappointed in that, yet another loose end in an otherwise nice kit.
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Old 09-20-2014, 03:59 PM   #774
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This is my car with stock turnbuckles...note simulated woodgrain

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Old 09-20-2014, 04:01 PM   #775
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need to find a tap that small
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Last edited by Dusttt; 09-20-2014 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 09-21-2014, 01:07 PM   #776
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Quote:
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need to find a tap that small

This won't work?

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=54232

I prefer a conventional 3mm x 0.5 tap (not a bottoming tap) from the local auto parts store. Sometimes I tap the hole all the way through (the six screws that hold the transmission halfs together), other times I just use the tap to start the threads (the four screws holding the case to the chassis).

What I want to know is where he found a left hand 3mm x 0.5 tap....
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Old 09-21-2014, 01:29 PM   #777
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What I want to know is where he found a left hand 3mm x 0.5 tap....
The one I used I found on eBay, but at the same time I started this thread which has a couple of nice website with good options: Need right/left threaded metric taps

Also a quick update. Turns out I'm an idiot (), the kit turnbuckles let you use at least the 2nd hole out on the bulkheads. Maybe even the 3rd, I'll have to try. When I was assembling the kit I wanted to use the furthest out hole, and that definitely doesn't work.

Anyway, ran the car last night in VTA for the first time. It feels good, but lazy. I shortened the camber links by one hole, but I need to quicken the side-to-side response more. I'm already at 40wt oil all around, I may try 45wt up front. Anyone know how the kit Tamiya spring rates compare to Xray, Spec-R or even HPI springs? The kit springs make the car very easy to drive, but I need to put it closer to the edge.
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:44 PM   #778
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Well, I installed the Hiro Seiko Ti/Al screw kit last night, shaving 20+ grams of weight! I'm now only 13 grams over minimum weight for our "VTA" class, which is good news. Good quality screws, definitely recommended so far.

I also popped open my transmission cases to take a look at the gears. The walls of the teeth look... hrm... worn? White-ish? There are no shavings or chunks missing or anything, but the gears are definitely slightly whiter in a pattern of sorts across the surface of their teeth. I'm assuming this is normal for a breakin?

The good news is the drivetrain now feels very smooth. Once I figure out a good spring set, this car could be very fast.
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Old 09-23-2014, 05:27 PM   #779
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For those that have a belt driven car and the EVO6, have you guys timed yourselves on the track to see which car is faster? For instance, when I first got my TCX a long time ago, I ran my TCX and my RS4 Pro (15 year old car then) back to back and the results were exactly the same. I used the track lap timer. I typically don't hit any boards so I was consistently within .1 to .2 seconds on a 12 second carpet track.

The reason I'm asking is that I've always had the debate with others that the shaft drive car should be significantly more efficient. Hence, you could take the motor off, grab the tires and spin the drive train for a few seconds. There's no way you could do that with a belt drive.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:18 PM   #780
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For those that have a belt driven car and the EVO6, have you guys timed yourselves on the track to see which car is faster? For instance, when I first got my TCX a long time ago, I ran my TCX and my RS4 Pro (15 year old car then) back to back and the results were exactly the same. I used the track lap timer. I typically don't hit any boards so I was consistently within .1 to .2 seconds on a 12 second carpet track.

The reason I'm asking is that I've always had the debate with others that the shaft drive car should be significantly more efficient. Hence, you could take the motor off, grab the tires and spin the drive train for a few seconds. There's no way you could do that with a belt drive.
A (properly built) shaft drive is definitely more efficient. My EVO.6 free spins a lot longer than my T4. For slow classes (such as VTA) this makes a difference. Lower motor temperatures due to less drivetrain friction are one advantage. Gearing is another. Because of that you can gear the car higher, but that often doesn't matter as you can gear too high for a particular track, which is pointless. But, at the same/good gearing as a belt car your shaft car motor will be happier anyway.

I haven't ran my cars back to back, but I also haven't dialed in the EVO to handle as well as my Xray yet. That's a work in progress. Then again I'm not consistent enough to really make any claims yet. I just like that the EVO is different and I'm the only one at my track who currently runs one.
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