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Old 09-08-2014, 08:54 AM   #721
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If you want it to be better before you run it, switch to 51255 gears.
Right, but those aren't carbon reinforced, right? I can live with before-break-in gear grinding to keep the stronger gears.
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:35 AM   #722
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In my experience. When you put toe at the hubs. It plants the rear end too much. 0 degree hubs have always been my choice.
My tc3 run great on 0 degree front hubs wonder if thats why my evo6 drives the way it does, (its probably my driving). What 0 degree hubs would fit evo6 may give it a try?
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:49 AM   #723
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First run with the car yesterday. No tuning session, only camber adhustments between each round. Only switching tires between the classes. Managed to eek out two 3rd place finishes in both 17.5Sportsman GT10 classes...

Ran SOREX in GT10, and some hand-me down Reedy Spec Sweeps for the 17.5 Sportsman

SOREX for some reason would over heat the rears by the end of the run. Car ran faster in 17.5Sportsman class on the Sweeps and felt very well balanced. Got as close to my TB03 setup as possible for its maiden voyage. Only exception being kit springs and droop settings. And possibly Ackerman geometry because of the steering rack design difference. Installed actual suspension arms, toe blocks Fr and Rr from my TB03.

Happy so far. Looking forward to dialing in more speed.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:01 PM   #724
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My tc3 run great on 0 degree front hubs wonder if thats why my evo6 drives the way it does, (its probably my driving). What 0 degree hubs would fit evo6 may give it a try?
There are 4 degree hubs, Tamiya do not make any 0 degree ones. Anyway, yours looked good when it was running, it just needed more speed on the straight. (My FDR is 4.7 btw)
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:14 PM   #725
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First run with the car yesterday... blah blah blah...Happy so far. Looking forward to dialing in more speed.
Good job with the maiden run It was certainly a fun filled goof off day.

Nobody told me we were running "Sportsman" 17.5

Thanks Olivia for the picture:


Still running the same setup I started with.
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Tamiya TB Evo 6-lyman-special.jpg   Tamiya TB Evo 6-tb-evo6-setup_rc_714.jpg  
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:37 PM   #726
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There are 4 degree hubs, Tamiya do not make any 0 degree ones. Anyway, yours looked good when it was running, it just needed more speed on the straight. (My FDR is 4.7 btw)
Going 64dp this week and drilled the shock caps for zero rebound and put shims back under front bulk heads. See how it runs, still need to scrub in the 32s which I must say come off warmer than the 28s so the grip is definitely there.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:40 PM   #727
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Good job with the maiden run It was certainly a fun filled goof off day.

Nobody told me we were running "Sportsman" 17.5

Thanks Olivia for the picture:


Still running the same setup I started with.

Just don't let it get out of control.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:42 PM   #728
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Right, but those aren't carbon reinforced, right? I can live with before-break-in gear grinding to keep the stronger gears.
Why do you need the stronger gears?

The failure of these parts, IMO, isn't related to the material, but the setup of the parts.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:54 PM   #729
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Why do you need the stronger gears?

The failure of these parts, IMO, isn't related to the material, but the setup of the parts.
I have no proof that I need them, I just wanted to start with stronger parts to eliminate failures. Even though this car will be running in a 25.5 class, I have a history of uhh... well, we'll call it "significant pipe contact"
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Old 09-08-2014, 01:53 PM   #730
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I have no proof that I need them, I just wanted to start with stronger parts to eliminate failures. Even though this car will be running in a 25.5 class, I have a history of uhh... well, we'll call it "significant pipe contact"
You should consider putting a gear diff in the front with 2.5m wt oil instead of the spool. That's what I have in my TB03 VTA car.

The gears will be fine in VTA forever. You'll wear out the pinion on the motor first.
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Old 09-08-2014, 02:02 PM   #731
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You should consider putting a gear diff in the front with 2.5m wt oil instead of the spool. That's what I have in my TB03 VTA car.

The gears will be fine in VTA forever. You'll wear out the pinion on the motor first.
Oh, I already have a gear diff with 1m oil up front I like the feel of that setup, at least on my Xray, so hoping for the same with the EVO.

Let me see how the reinforced gears bed in, if they remain notchy then I'll try the regular plastic gears.
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:16 PM   #732
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I am about to build one of my kits. Can someone tell me the part numbers for all of the reinforced or suggested parts that I should get ? Are there metal gears etc?
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:11 PM   #733
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My tc3 run great on 0 degree front hubs wonder if thats why my evo6 drives the way it does, (its probably my driving). What 0 degree hubs would fit evo6 may give it a try?
I thought you were talking about the rear hubs. Front C-hubs I use 4 degree always
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:30 PM   #734
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Why the TAMIYA don't to address these gear issues??? I try use the 54593 reinforced gear, but the AE B44 #3914 bevel gear is better material .
If the EVO6 can address these gear issues then run modify motor. the EVO6 have been a good good car.
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:11 PM   #735
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Why the TAMIYA don't to address these gear issues??? I try use the 54593 reinforced gear, but the AE B44 #3914 bevel gear is better material .
If the EVO6 can address these gear issues then run modify motor. the EVO6 have been a good good car.
Because they don't care.

The EVO6 is a drop in the ocean for Tamiya, not a big source of revenue. Like I said earlier, I think they're only testing the waters for now, but if in the future shaft drive with transverse motor layouts prove a significant advantage over belt drive, they may try and develop theirs to get a slice of the market.
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