R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-29-2014, 03:53 PM   #646
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,047
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
What do you mean by light weight? Plastic gears as opposed to the metal ones?
I'm not sure what they're actually called. But I want to replace the steel parts that the dog bones attach to
Juan Aveytia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2014, 04:15 PM   #647
Tech Elite
 
metalnut's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,726
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
I'm not sure what they're actually called. But I want to replace the steel parts that the dog bones attach to
Ah, do you mean the cups? http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7270

That's part # 54543
__________________
Team Nervous | Team Scruffy | Team Orange

"If you ain't first, you're last!"
- Ricky Bobby
metalnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2014, 06:26 PM   #648
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,047
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Ah, do you mean the cups? http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7270

That's part # 54543
That will be the ones. Thank you
Juan Aveytia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2014, 09:43 PM   #649
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,735
Default

Juan

The outdrives don't affect much how quickly you can spin up the diff, but the metal gears inside do. The aluminium ones are nice but you need to use the plastic blades with them. If I was running in mod I wouldn't use those on the front diff (if you run one).

Either way, I think Tamiya cheaped out and took too much material off the ends to allow the pin to be inserted. They should have cut only a narrow channel for the pin rather than take off half the outdrive tail which weakened them unnecessarily. Maybe it doesn't make any difference in the big scheme of things, but I'm just sayin'.
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2014, 11:50 PM   #650
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,047
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Juan

The outdrives don't affect much how quickly you can spin up the diff, but the metal gears inside do. The aluminium ones are nice but you need to use the plastic blades with them. If I was running in mod I wouldn't use those on the front diff (if you run one).

Either way, I think Tamiya cheaped out and took too much material off the ends to allow the pin to be inserted. They should have cut only a narrow channel for the pin rather than take off half the outdrive tail which weakened them unnecessarily. Maybe it doesn't make any difference in the big scheme of things, but I'm just sayin'.
Thanks for the heads up. I just think the aluminum looks cool. I was able to install this gear diff in my 414
Juan Aveytia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2014, 12:36 AM   #651
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 8
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
That hpi motor maybe heavier the newer motors. Using a lighter motor then you are using know.may help . The new Trinity D4 is 6 grams lighter then the Killshot. Also what kind of surface and grip level. My EVO 6 handles great on our bumpy high grip 140'x70' fast flowing track . I like the EVO better then my 418 or 417v5.
Small to med carpet track very good grip levels. Have only run car twice so its goona be a few weeks to get use to it. Kit springs have tried hpi pink fronts silver rears seemed quite similar. 40wt oil all round 32 sorex, ride height 5 front 5.5 rear, shocks hole 3 in front and rear zero rebound, camber 1.5 front 2 rear 1 deg toe out on front. The rest is a stock from the box, well thats me if anyone has done anything different that works well im all ears
gunjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2014, 07:19 AM   #652
Tech Addict
 
E-clip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

What do you think I could sell a Brand New EVO5 for ??
E-clip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2014, 12:12 PM   #653
Tech Elite
 
CraigMBA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Valley of the Dirt, CA
Posts: 2,832
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

I scaled my evo6. Its total weight is 1369g ready to run, all steel screws, 321 gram R1wurks battery.

The battery side is light by 15 grams, especially on the RF. GUESS WHERE the weight is going?
__________________
* Cee Lo Dizzle, the Secizzle * Red Bull * Team Homies * Pintura de Negro Mate * USVTA #152
CraigMBA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2014, 02:34 PM   #654
Tech Fanatic
 
vivo quevas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central, Ca.
Posts: 997
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigMBA View Post
I scaled my evo6. Its total weight is 1369g ready to run, all steel screws, 321 gram R1wurks battery.

The battery side is light by 15 grams, especially on the RF. GUESS WHERE the weight is going?
Where on the right front are you putting that weight?
__________________
Tamiya/Exotek EXO6 USGT, Tamiya TB03 GT3, Exotek FR1V2
Roche Rapid 1/12, XRay Speed Merchant WGT
http://localrcracing.freeforums.org/
HobbyTown Fresno, Ca. McAllister Racing, Visa/MasterCard's
"Take an early lead and extend it".(Fast Eddie Janis)
vivo quevas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2014, 05:10 PM   #655
Tech Elite
 
CraigMBA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Valley of the Dirt, CA
Posts: 2,832
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
Where on the right front are you putting that weight?
On the battery.
__________________
* Cee Lo Dizzle, the Secizzle * Red Bull * Team Homies * Pintura de Negro Mate * USVTA #152
CraigMBA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2014, 06:26 PM   #656
Tech Elite
 
metalnut's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,726
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Just curious, how are you doing the corner weights? With the arms locked somehow, eliminating spring preload from the equation?
__________________
Team Nervous | Team Scruffy | Team Orange

"If you ain't first, you're last!"
- Ricky Bobby
metalnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2014, 09:40 PM   #657
Tech Elite
 
CraigMBA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Valley of the Dirt, CA
Posts: 2,832
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Just curious, how are you doing the corner weights? With the arms locked somehow, eliminating spring preload from the equation?
With scales.

Why would you lock out the spring preload? The whole reason to corner weight the car is to set the preload!

I set the car up where it's ready to run, set the ride height, and then weigh it. You can see where the light corner is. In the evo6, it's actually the LR that's heavy. Since I can't get weight out of the LR, I add some back to the RF (because the car is underweight as it is).

For users that have no idea what I'm doing, read
this.
__________________
* Cee Lo Dizzle, the Secizzle * Red Bull * Team Homies * Pintura de Negro Mate * USVTA #152
CraigMBA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2014, 10:19 PM   #658
Tech Elite
 
metalnut's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,726
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigMBA View Post
With scales.

Why would you lock out the spring preload? The whole reason to corner weight the car is to set the preload!

I set the car up where it's ready to run, set the ride height, and then weigh it. You can see where the light corner is. In the evo6, it's actually the LR that's heavy. Since I can't get weight out of the LR, I add some back to the RF (because the car is underweight as it is).

For users that have no idea what I'm doing, read
this.
This is probably not the right thread for this, but... assume you locked out the shocks, by say replacing them with equal length turnbuckles. When you corner weigh the car like that, you get a true corner weight distribution reading. Now, when you do so with shocks in place, the corner weight readings are actually skewed to some degree by the imperfect rates of the springs. This may be minimal, especially if you use quality matched springs that are of close-to-identical length and rate. Proper corner weight is important, but making sure the car reacts equally left-to-right is equally important, imho.

So, my take on this is to corner-weight with no preload. Get the corners close to what you want. You can then detweak the corners with spring preloads as usual. I verify this second step with setup wheels, with accurately set droop, by lifting the ends of the car and verifying the wheels leave the ground at the same time.

Let me know if I'm crazy
__________________
Team Nervous | Team Scruffy | Team Orange

"If you ain't first, you're last!"
- Ricky Bobby
metalnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2014, 10:23 PM   #659
Tech Fanatic
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora La Reina de Los Ángeles del Río de Porciúncula
Posts: 909
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

I need to try these tips! My car is very out of balance L/R about 55%/45% or 150g difference. Going to try a few things to even it out
__________________
...............
lagcisco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2014, 11:14 PM   #660
Tech Elite
 
CraigMBA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Valley of the Dirt, CA
Posts: 2,832
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lagcisco View Post
I need to try these tips! My car is very out of balance L/R about 55%/45% or 150g difference. Going to try a few things to even it out
Wow. Mine was 15 grams.

Having the l/r balance not be 50/50 is not, contrary to popular opinion, the worst thing ever. What you are trying to do is get the splits the same, not just the wedge.

I can get my car to weigh right by adding "around" a turn in the LR spring and taking out a round in the RF. But then the ride heights are off, and the RF is too low to pass tech on carpet. That's why I set ride height first, then scale it, and then recheck it. I do it with the car set up to roll out on the track.

If you remove the shocks, add fixed rods,and put the setup wheels on, it might be useful for other activities (like, mocking up a corvette subframe to be installed under a 53 studebaker to get the ride heights right and adjust how the body hangs - seen that one done), but it assumes that everything else is exactly right (chassis isn't tweaked, has no flex, nothing is threaded in crooked). And then your going to have to redo it all over again with the it tires and wheels.

I started corner weighing my car when I was running direct drives on foam. If you hit something and bent the car, the scales would tell you where (assuming you knew what it Scaled at before it got wrecked). You could put the car back the way you had it with complete confidence.
__________________
* Cee Lo Dizzle, the Secizzle * Red Bull * Team Homies * Pintura de Negro Mate * USVTA #152
CraigMBA is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:20 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0