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Old 08-09-2014, 04:47 AM   #511
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E58105419

May I know how did you remove the flange 4 x 8x 3 bearing
From the spur gear holder? It seems very tightly fitted.
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Old 08-09-2014, 05:39 PM   #512
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I'm on the fence with this kit... those who have built it and ran it... how's the design? How's the handling? How's the durability? I'm after the driveline efficiency for VTA, but I'm pretty unfamiliar with Tamiya sedans. I'm also a bit worried about all the unique parts and thus parts support in a year or two.

As a side note, Tamiya part numbers are like black magic to me. Let's say I wanted to change the rear toe to 2*, I'd go from block 1D (3458125) to 1B (3458124)... I think... but what if I wanted 2.5*? I don't see any other blocks listed under the kit. Would this one work (for TB-03 / FF03 / TA05 / 416 / 417): http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3085 ?
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Last edited by metalnut; 08-09-2014 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:40 PM   #513
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Here you go Adam
Attached Files
File Type: pdf tamiya block chart.pdf (41.4 KB, 147 views)
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:55 PM   #514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I'm on the fence with this kit... those who have built it and ran it... how's the design? How's the handling? How's the durability? I'm after the driveline efficiency for VTA, but I'm pretty unfamiliar with Tamiya sedans. I'm also a bit worried about all the unique parts and thus parts support in a year or two.

As a side note, Tamiya part numbers are like black magic to me. Let's say I wanted to change the rear toe to 2*, I'd go from block 1D (3458125) to 1B (3458124)... I think... but what if I wanted 2.5*? I don't see any other blocks listed under the kit. Would this one work (for TB-03 / FF03 / TA05 / 416 / 417): http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3085 ?
If your racing vta, maybe consider the tb04 pro v2 instead if you want to save some money. And you won't be adding much lead weight to make the 1550g weight limit.
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Old 08-10-2014, 12:08 AM   #515
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Here you go Adam
Thanks Franko, I found that chart earlier in the thread, my question was mostly about how interchangeable the blocks are between kits.

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If your racing vta, maybe consider the tb04 pro v2 instead if you want to save some money. And you won't be adding much lead weight to make the 1550g weight limit.
I hope this doesn't come off badly, but money isn't the issue. I like VTA and have been running an Xray T4, but the engineer in me wants a shaft drive since it's efficient and different. I guess I'm just looking for someone to pass the the blue kool-aid and put my fears to rest
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Old 08-10-2014, 12:48 AM   #516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Thanks Franko, I found that chart earlier in the thread, my question was mostly about how interchangeable the blocks are between kits.



I hope this doesn't come off badly, but money isn't the issue. I like VTA and have been running an Xray T4, but the engineer in me wants a shaft drive since it's efficient and different. I guess I'm just looking for someone to pass the the blue kool-aid and put my fears to rest
all blocks are very interchangeable c/t Evo6 or TB04 ,which is not a problem ....for belt TC yes some requires use the bridge block..
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Old 08-10-2014, 12:48 AM   #517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Thanks Franko, I found that chart earlier in the thread, my question was mostly about how interchangeable the blocks are between kits.



I hope this doesn't come off badly, but money isn't the issue. I like VTA and have been running an Xray T4, but the engineer in me wants a shaft drive since it's efficient and different. I guess I'm just looking for someone to pass the the blue kool-aid and put my fears to rest
Didn't come off badly at all plus if you have been running a t4 then getting a tub chassis would be a step backwards .

The evo 6 should make for a great vta car, take care to shim the drivetrain well otherwise you won't be taking advantage of the shaft drive. I wouldn't be too worried about discontinued parts, All the suspension components and bellcranks are from the TRF418. The drivetrain and diff cases are from the TB04 which should be around for a while. The only things that are really specific to the evo 6 would be the upper and lower deck, motor mount and servo mount. Parts support for discontinued Tamiya sedans is pretty good to with all the Hong Kong dealers
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Old 08-10-2014, 01:43 AM   #518
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Yesterday testing my EVO 6 and cloudy to sunshine weather.

In the rear I change the Suspension Blocks to C (2pc) and C. In Front C an B (2pc). Roll Center in Front 2mm and in the rear 1 mm.



The EVO is very agile in the curve and very stable in the rear when accelerating out of the curve.



I am very happy with the setup and was fast also.



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Old 08-10-2014, 03:48 AM   #519
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I appreciate all of the replies, guys. You got me convinced! Time to put on some shades and stare at the anodized blue goodness...
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:09 AM   #520
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Originally Posted by Simmi View Post
Yesterday testing my EVO 6 and cloudy to sunshine weather.

In the rear I change the Suspension Blocks to C (2pc) and C. In Front C an B (2pc). Roll Center in Front 2mm and in the rear 1 mm.



The EVO is very agile in the curve and very stable in the rear when accelerating out of the curve.



I am very happy with the setup and was fast also.



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Old 08-10-2014, 10:44 AM   #521
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CW22 was kind enough to let me drive his Evo6 yesterday at Tamiya America. It was very smooth, easy to drive, and quiet. Quieter than a lot of the belt drive cars in attendance.

Looking forward to driving mine.
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Old 08-11-2014, 01:26 AM   #522
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Well, I'm about 8 hours into the build and I'm still at the top of page 6. For the life of me, I can't get the rear gearbox to be smooth. I've shimmed and reshimmed everything dozens of times.

I have a 0.1mm shim behind the small bevel gear (separating it from the two bearings), and 0.6mm of shims between the outer/larger bearing and the end of the input shaft to keep things from moving around. As far as I can tell, this is as far away as I can move the bevel gear from the ring gear. Still, it sounds like something is lopsided because there is a slight notchy interference every few revolutions.

Furthermore, the top of the gear box is shit. First, it doesn't align properly with the bottom, so I sanded it flat but it's still not perfect. Second, the way it was moulded wouldn't let the smaller bearing on the input shaft to be properly seated. I had to shave a bunch of plastic to let the top of the case close down on the smaller bearing. The gear diff bearings also get squished noticeably, even if just placed into the top case by itself.

When I screw it all down... it's shit. I've been very careful, pre-tapped everything, applied the least amount of force to the screws, etc., no go.

Has anyone else had these problems? I'm giving up for the night, but I feel like I just threw $500 into the mud. Ridiculous issues at this price point.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:51 AM   #523
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i don't have an Evo6, but i run a TB04... "broke in" the gears by dropping in a silver can and hooking the motor to a motor master, running 4v for around an hour... hths
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:03 AM   #524
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metal nut, play around with the shims on either side of the diff (the large 10mm ones). I found putting more shims on the side opposite the diff ring gear made my gearboxes much smoother and removed the notchiness (it moves the ring gear away from the bevel)

Also, they will quiet down after running
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:41 AM   #525
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Quote:
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In the rear I change the Suspension Blocks to C (2pc) and C.
2pc C or XC ? 0 degrees or 3 degrees ?

Had to drive my EVO 5 MS (418) in the rain Yesterday. "Simmi's"
Only car still driving after 6 of 10 minutes into the last final.

Evo 6 arrived Thursday and is not yet finished.

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