theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

All of the 05 blocks are .5mm lower than standard blocks

ruebiracer

Thanks Qatmix and Professor!
Good to know, that I can use my old blocks partly.
One thing left: The widest block I knew was an E, but now there are even F and G blocks? Following the rule, they should be even wider, correct?

I think I will start with 1B/1B in front, no shims, and 1XA/1E in rear, also no shims, and see if it works.

Thank you very much for the help,
Matthias

Brinni

@ruebiracer
Do you drive the Löffler Cup Race in Estenfeld in January?

ruebiracer

Yes, you are right! Will try the Fun Class again, additional maybe Rookie with my M-chassis or my new Ta02sw.😉 Br, Matthias

Brinni

Cool! I also will try the fun class with My Exo6

ruebiracer

Very cool Markus,

as tire choice is free on the new ETS carpet, do you have a favorite tire?
I´m a bit lost, which would be good enough. I have a lot of Ride Rex 30 left,
but I guess most people will change to different tires...

Br,
Matthias

Qatmix

Hi Ruebiracer, I got my wires crossed on the reply (I was drinking wine) the height difference is that the standard blocs (A, D etc) are the highest. Ones marked 1D etc are 1mm lower and the 05blocks are 0.5mm lower again. However an E is the same width for each etc.

ruebiracer

Thank you very much for making that clear, Qatmix!
Not quite logical, that the 05 blocks are not called 1.5 blocks then, but o.k.
So for my explanation about the G and F-blocks are at the moment, that these are mainly for the rear, when driving wider (front) rear blocks, like 1XB or 1XC for example, to get the same toe in rear with a wider rear end in total?
To be honest, I never used something different then XA in the rear, so ended up in D or E most of the time for the last block.
So it seems I lack too much testing tme.

But thanks for explaining the height rule!
Keep on with your homepage, still abig fan of your articles!

Br,
Matthias

Brinni

I Think the Ride Rex30 are a good choice, much better than Volante...

I also will drive die Rex Tires.

Br Matthias

jessele

iTrader: (3)

finally got around to listing my almost new EVO 6 MS with new Exotek Upgrades. heres my link to the ad with parts list and spares. Let me know if you are interested - 300 +sh

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Evo-6...4AAOSwo4pYZMiV

rcdreamer

Hi Guys, please advise if theres a separate evo 6 ms thread or if this is it. Im considering getting one for our stock 21,5 T class, any thoughts?. thanks

nubs

iTrader: (2)

There is only one thread for all the variations of the Evo 6 including the Exo 6.

As far as Evo 6 for stock, it's got a definite advantage in power to wheels especially when you start upgrading the drive train by reducing rotating mass. That being said, it can be disheartening to try and get everything working right. Keep in mind I am a newb to this whole RC thing. The TA07 feels much easier to work on.

rcdreamer

Thanks nubs, based on the lack of responses, I'm getting the feeling the evo 6 is not a great buy. Trolling throught the various pages here quickly it seems like it has issues that can be resolved but with addition of third part parts etc. Seem the exo conversion is a must as with the std motor configuration the car looks way out of balance. Will subscribe here nevertheless.

TENCHO

well i just put together my new Evo 6 MS. went together really easy.
i'm gonna race it in the next TCS race in GT1, using 17.5 on carpet.

i was told that at the track, the guys running 17.5 Touring cars run around a 4.3 FDR.
since the Evo 6 MS has 2.5 IDR, i used an 81 spur and 47 pinion.
i'm surprised how easily the gears fit. i was afraid i would have fitment issues.

anyone have any tips they can share? i've never run this car, so i have no idea how to set it up. i only filled the shocks with 35 shock oil, and everything else is box stock setup

aracefan

iTrader: (70)

Okay TB Evo6 experts, I need some help/advice.

I picked up a used TB Evo 6 MS w/Exo6 conversion off of here, used obviously. I got the car in and unfortunately it was in worse shape than described - and such is the risk of buying something used. I'm having an issue with the gear diffs/drive line... The car is "notchy" when rotating the spur gear. There are gear diffs in the front and rear of car, which is fine, I actually run my TC6.1 that way in USGT.

Here is what I've done:

Removed the gear diffs and rebuilt them both, both were not shimmed correctly.
Inspected all the internal metal gears (under magnifier) and they all look clean and straight.
Replaced incorrect shims with new and also shimmed it per instructions.
Replaced green diff seals. Replaced copper bushings with rubber shielded 5x8x2.5 bearings.
Inspected both front and rear gear cases and they look fine.
The screws holding the top deck were too long and didn't cinch down the top deck, so replaced those with the correct screws.
Cleaned, re-greased everything and reassembled the driveline, and low and behold it is doing the same thing...
It's not near as "clicky" as it was but it is still happening.

Now though, I can rotate the spur about 80% the way around and then it "notches" a few times, and then is free. Then does it again... I have no idea what is the issue. I checked the attachment of the stock gear to the Exotek drive shaft at the rear and also the attachment of the front drive gear and they are correct. Wasn't sure if there was a shimming issue there, but as much as I can tell all is correct.

I'm just at a loss on this thing - I have spent about 4 hours working on this car and while it's a little better it still isn't "right". I definitely don't want to run it with this notching issue.

Any tips or suggestions would hugely appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
-Barry