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Old 09-06-2016, 08:57 PM   #2221
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That plastic gear needs to be careful reamed to fit the exotek spool, and the axle or gearbox will need to be sanded a bit to work properly. I've had similar issues with aftermarket parts for my tc4/ntc3 drivetrain, but I'd rather have the parts a little tight, than too loose... I think it might be the anodizing getting in the way a bit though....
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Originally Posted by Brinni View Post
Hey all, i've got a problem with my new lightweight solid axle from Exotek, it's outer diameter is 12,25mm but the inner diameter of the Gear is 12,1mm so i have to sand the Gears inner diameter. Is this common or just with my Solidaxle?

Edit: Another problem, the axle is to wide. It stuck with the diff housing. Same with a different diff housing.

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Old 09-07-2016, 11:45 AM   #2222
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Originally Posted by TamiyaMatt84 View Post
This is no disrespect to Exotek, Mike, or anyone using the Exo conversion, but I kind of wish there was a different thread for the Exo kit. I have read comments in this board suggesting the stock Tamiya Evo.6 is not worthy without the Exo conversion. I had the original kit, and now own the MS. They perform very well for me, and I have had very little issues. So I guess what I'm saying is: I wish people would stop telling every new Evo.6 owner that there car is crap without an additional $150 conversion. I have no plans to convert my MS, mainly for TCS reasons, but I can see the benefit in converting the Evo.6 to a Evo 5 (motor and battery swapped of course), as that was a great chassis.
I don't think anyone has said that the Evo 6 is crap. I think everyone here is quite fond of the car. That being said, the Exo 6 conversion is an upgrade. By its very nature it reduces the rotating mass by taking out an un-needed gear box. It reduces the very real phenomenon of torque steer. It provides a motor mount that opens up gearing options. If you like the stock versions, more power to you. I say keep on doing what you like.
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:37 AM   #2223
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Or you could just be ridiculous, like me, and have both: TB Evo6 and a TB Evo6 with the Exo6 conversion.

And I agree with nubs, I have read through this thread and didn't really get the vibe that the "stock" Evo6 isn't good - the Exo6 conversion, however, does make it better. And I'm a Tamiya nut (have 11 Tamiya chassis' at the moment) but can see where the Exotek products do make an improvement on a solid design.

I say kudos to MikeR and Exotek for improving a great chassis and not just coming out with a bunch of pretty upgrades.
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:53 PM   #2224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TamiyaMatt84 View Post
This is no disrespect to Exotek, Mike, or anyone using the Exo conversion, but I kind of wish there was a different thread for the Exo kit. I have read comments in this board suggesting the stock Tamiya Evo.6 is not worthy without the Exo conversion. I had the original kit, and now own the MS. They perform very well for me, and I have had very little issues. So I guess what I'm saying is: I wish people would stop telling every new Evo.6 owner that there car is crap without an additional $150 conversion. I have no plans to convert my MS, mainly for TCS reasons, but I can see the benefit in converting the Evo.6 to a Evo 5 (motor and battery swapped of course), as that was a great chassis.
No offense taken!
But I think without the exo collaboration and discussion this thread would be on about page 12 with some other forgotten cars

In the end we are all fans of the EVO6 and without it we would all be driving a belt car today haha.

..... and happy to say, I just wrapped up the design of the alloy evo6 gearbox and hope to test samples by next month!
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:09 PM   #2225
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:04 AM   #2226
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I've taken around 60 to 70 grams off my shaft cars drivetrain from the original steel parts, and I think the same can come off the EVO6's drivetrain from its stock design: the exo6 is a definite step in the right direction...
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
I don't think anyone has said that the Evo 6 is crap. I think everyone here is quite fond of the car. That being said, the Exo 6 conversion is an upgrade. By its very nature it reduces the rotating mass by taking out an un-needed gear box. It reduces the very real phenomenon of torque steer. It provides a motor mount that opens up gearing options. If you like the stock versions, more power to you. I say keep on doing what you like.
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:43 AM   #2227
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I've taken around 60 to 70 grams off my shaft cars drivetrain from the original steel parts, and I think the same can come off the EVO6's drivetrain from its stock design: the exo6 is a definite step in the right direction...
I just weighed the drivetrain in my box stock TC3.

Composite drive shaft: 6.1g
Spur assembly (inclusive of spur gear and 2 ball bearings): 13.8g
Front input shaft assembly (inclusive of 2 ball bearings): 6.8g
Composite ball diff: 12.2g per diff, 24.4g total
Composite CVD: 5g each, 20g total

That's a total of 71.1g. There's no way you came remotely close to losing 60g in steel from a TC4 drivetrain.
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:43 AM   #2228
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I was running steel diffs(28 grams each), steel axles/spool/input shafts, aluminum driveshaft/ cvd's, and heavy tires(34grams each)... I went back to plastic, aluminum and carbon fiber driveshaft , that's why I lost so much drivetrain weight.....
The EVO6 can lose around 25grams or more without spending too much money...Your box stock tc3 can lose more drivetrain weight by switching to an aluminum front spool(-3grams), ceramic diff balls(-1 gram), aluminum axles(-8grams), carbon fiber driveshaft(-1 gram), aluminum input shafts(-5grams), lighter tires like sorex jb 32's(-24grams to -40 grams).
That's about 18grams(more than an extra diff) without the tires(50grams to 66grams with the tires)....Even if your club runs spec tires, you can shave about two grams off the inside of the rim per tire(-8grams)... These grams add up folks, and the kinetic energy recovered from these savings will result in better acceleration, higher top speeds, and less heat....
No belt car with gear diffs can come close... Shaft is ideal for stock racing: just get rid of the rotational mass....

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Old 09-15-2016, 08:38 AM   #2229
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TQ racing has the Spec-R gear diffs in stock.
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Old 09-26-2016, 04:18 AM   #2230
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Hi Guys,

I have a little noise problem with my gears.

At our local track we are driving with 17,5T motors and 5.0 FDR
I use a 68T spurgear and a 32T pinion 48dp from tamiya. I installed it correctly with the right amount of distance between the spur and pinion. The problem that I have is that the car makes this very high wishtling noise when I am driving. It seems like the noise is coming from the gears.

Is there somebody that has encountered the same problem or has a alternatif solution?
Maybe change the gears to a different brand?

Thanx in advance!
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Old 09-26-2016, 10:27 AM   #2231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sjim View Post
Hi Guys,

I have a little noise problem with my gears.

At our local track we are driving with 17,5T motors and 5.0 FDR
I use a 68T spurgear and a 32T pinion 48dp from tamiya. I installed it correctly with the right amount of distance between the spur and pinion. The problem that I have is that the car makes this very high wishtling noise when I am driving. It seems like the noise is coming from the gears.

Is there somebody that has encountered the same problem or has a alternatif solution?
Maybe change the gears to a different brand?

Thanx in advance!
Tamiya pinion gear is not 48 pitch gear....Tamiya gear is .04mm and .06mm metric. after market brands is 48 or 63 pitch standard
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:30 AM   #2232
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I use the standard spurgear that comes with the car. And the pinion is also from Tamiya. So I think there is no problem with that.
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Old 09-27-2016, 01:39 AM   #2233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sjim View Post
I use the standard spurgear that comes with the car. And the pinion is also from Tamiya. So I think there is no problem with that.
Not the motor?
My first car was a 417 with a speed passion & I went to a bd7 with a trackstar with the same brand of pinion/spur
I thought it was the pinion/spur making a noise but it was my mate that pointed out it was actually the motor.
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Old 09-27-2016, 04:26 AM   #2234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sjim View Post
I use the standard spurgear that comes with the car. And the pinion is also from Tamiya. So I think there is no problem with that.
It seems you have a Tamiya 06-module spur and either 04-module or 48dp pinion, and they have (slightly) different teething. It really does not matter if they are both made by Tamiya, teething does not fully match. You have to change the spur to too (since large 06-module pinions do not exist) .
Don't know if that takes away the noise, but changing the spur is in any case recommended. I changed mine to 64 teeth 48dp, this gives wide selection of pinions.
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:11 AM   #2235
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Originally Posted by NITROBUSA View Post
Not the motor?
My first car was a 417 with a speed passion & I went to a bd7 with a trackstar with the same brand of pinion/spur
I thought it was the pinion/spur making a noise but it was my mate that pointed out it was actually the motor.
I can check if the sound comes from the motor. It is a 17,5 LRP X12 Vector Stock Spec.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudie View Post
It seems you have a Tamiya 06-module spur and either 04-module or 48dp pinion, and they have (slightly) different teething. It really does not matter if they are both made by Tamiya, teething does not fully match. You have to change the spur to too (since large 06-module pinions do not exist) .
Don't know if that takes away the noise, but changing the spur is in any case recommended. I changed mine to 64 teeth 48dp, this gives wide selection of pinions.
So what kind of spur or pinion do you prefer? Is it possible to change the brand from Tamiya to, for example, Arrowmax spur gear?

And I checked the car again and it has a 66T spurgear that came with the car and a 33T pinion. Both from Tamiya.
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