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Old 06-27-2016, 12:11 PM   #1981
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Originally Posted by OSherman View Post
same here.. lightweight and easy to install, just stick them on.
Are they made out of aluminum or steel?
TQ website doesn't say!
Inquiring minds want to know!
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:30 PM   #1982
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Originally Posted by Tom1977 View Post
I'm using SpecR Chassis Down Stop Protection Spacer (4pc) - #SPR035-DSP for both, aluminium and cf.

TQrcracing has them in stock.
Awesome, that was exactly what I was hoping for.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:35 PM   #1983
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I like to pick the class with the most entries, whichever that is, this way you should have more racers close to your pace

2 - 3 secs a lap off pace is quite significant
Can the locals help you tune that car, or check it over ?

Crashing and such is what practice days are for, nothing to be concerned with, also a good way to find the limits of your settings under race pace
Never practice at 90%
The first day someone made some major changes to my car before I ever put it on the ground. Apparently I had set up a lot of stuff wrong. On the second day I got lots of tips and they seemed to improve my time, but ultimately my problem is more with my driving skills than with my setup. I'm still learning to take turns properly, when to accelerate, when to brake, etc. I wish the track was open more so I could practice more, but they are only open every other weekend.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:39 PM   #1984
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Are they made out of aluminum or steel?
TQ website doesn't say!
Inquiring minds want to know!
They're made out of steel.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:59 PM   #1985
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They're made out of steel.

Thank you for the fast response!
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:09 PM   #1986
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back in the day I made my own out of old X-acto blades.. Safety goggles and a very fast spinning DREMEL is all that's required.. and maybe some vice-grips.. and maybe gloves..... and maybe a bucket of water.. and a robust cut-off wheel...

old 'battery-bars' came in handy before I started using X-acto blades.. (x-acto blades were an upgrade for duability and saving space)
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:16 PM   #1987
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The first day someone made some major changes to my car before I ever put it on the ground. Apparently I had set up a lot of stuff wrong. On the second day I got lots of tips and they seemed to improve my time, but ultimately my problem is more with my driving skills than with my setup. I'm still learning to take turns properly, when to accelerate, when to brake, etc. I wish the track was open more so I could practice more, but they are only open every other weekend.

I think the best advise I could give you is to squeeze the throttle to accelerate don't pull lit, then get off the throttle early when coming to a corner, only brake in an emergency, ( if you overshoot the corner).
Go wide if you see someone who is faster coming at you and if their on your ass then keep your line and let the pass you from the inside.
Don't spend more money buying another motor, run your equipment that you have, unless they want to give you a new 21.5 motor then that's an option and last have fun, you deserve to be there as much as the other racers so in time they'll come around.

Believe me at the Tamiya track we have a wide range of racers very fast expert to very slow novice racers and we all know who they are. It's our bad if we go out there when someone new is trying to learn to drive and run our 5 turn mod motor at the same time to practice. We try to share the track with everyone. After all, every racer was new once!
Just my 2$
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:46 PM   #1988
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
Are you guys using anything to protect the CF body from the suspension arm set screws?
Doesn't the Evo 6 have the smooth/ rounded off 4mm grub screws that's usually included with all the 418 style arms? I haven't seen any of those digging into the CF on my 418 arm equipped cars like the old style 3mm cupped end grub screws. The cupped end really chews on everything it touches.

On most of my older 3mm droop screws, I've taken a dremel with a disc wheel and ground them smooth, then polished with a finer wheel to make them similar to the new style screws. Just chuck them carefully on a hex driver tool and spin it as it touches the abrasive wheel. They can eject if you can't hold it securely! Just a precaution!

I'd rather take weight off, no matter how minuscule, than add more weight.
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:05 PM   #1989
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Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
Every racer was new once!
Just my 2$
Maximum good advice
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Old 06-27-2016, 02:15 PM   #1990
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Maximum good advice
Max was my mentor too at the Tamiya track.
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:52 PM   #1991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
I think the best advise I could give you is to squeeze the throttle to accelerate don't pull lit, then get off the throttle early when coming to a corner, only brake in an emergency, ( if you overshoot the corner).
Go wide if you see someone who is faster coming at you and if their on your ass then keep your line and let the pass you from the inside.
Don't spend more money buying another motor, run your equipment that you have, unless they want to give you a new 21.5 motor then that's an option and last have fun, you deserve to be there as much as the other racers so in time they'll come around.

Believe me at the Tamiya track we have a wide range of racers very fast expert to very slow novice racers and we all know who they are. It's our bad if we go out there when someone new is trying to learn to drive and run our 5 turn mod motor at the same time to practice. We try to share the track with everyone. After all, every racer was new once!
Just my 2$
Thanks, I appreciate that.
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:23 PM   #1992
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
Thanks, I appreciate that.
I ran my Exo-Six this for the first time this past weekend and I was averaging 0.5 seconds faster than I usually am with my T4 on a 16-17 second track. I was much more consistent with the Exo over my T4.

I think the massive forward drive out of corners is what helped me the most, as it could compensate for a bad line or missed apex.

I'm a bottom of the A-main, top of the B-main driver at club races, but I think with a little more time I can be a mid-pack A runner.

Also, I had a few wall hits and an encounter with a dot which sent me airborne, yet the Exotek rear aluminum axles held up. Thanks MikeR!

Nubs, where did you run locally? I would be nice to share info with another NorCal Exo-Six driver. I started racing on-road last year and was 1-2 seconds a lap behind. Don't worry, you'll get faster.

Last edited by B. Santos; 06-27-2016 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:07 PM   #1993
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Chalk another victory up for the EXO6 at the Big Fat Turkey race in Camarillo CA this past weekend in the RRGT (GT10 17.5T class). I was able to pilot my EXO6 to the winners circle in an exciting triple A main format in the first two rounds. With mixed track conditions from high grip to "dusty" due to a farmer cultivating his field next to the track during qualifying on Saturday the EXO6 handled the changes very well. I used the alloy chassis for the event and it proved to be very responsive to setup changes.
There were a few bumpy areas on the track that the chassis handled well. The car's initial corner entry was awesome and it carried corner speed throughout all types of turns. Forward traction was very noticeable as always with the lightened drive train I run that has be discussed in detail on other posts. There were all types of "modern" chassis competing from ARC, Xray, Awesomatix and Yokomo that it outperformed. Thanks Mike R and Exotek for breathing life into a working man's affordable shaft drive car that can compete with the best!
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:36 PM   #1994
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Originally Posted by B. Santos View Post
I ran my Exo-Six this for the first time this past weekend and I was averaging 0.5 seconds faster than I usually am with my T4 on a 16-17 second track. I was much more consistent with the Exo over my T4.

I think the massive forward drive out of corners is what helped me the most, as it could compensate for a bad line or missed apex.

I'm a bottom of the A-main, top of the B-main driver at club races, but I think with a little more time I can be a mid-pack A runner.

Also, I had a few wall hits and an encounter with a dot which sent me airborne, yet the Exotek rear aluminum axles held up. Thanks MikeR!

Nubs, where did you run locally? I would be nice to share info with another NorCal Exo-Six driver. I started racing on-road last year and was 1-2 seconds a lap behind. Don't worry, you'll get faster.
I'm racing at Ripon RC speedway. It's near manteca if you are not familiar with where Ripon is. I'm the only guy running tamiya here at the moment. I'm also thinking of going to NorCal hobbies.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:40 PM   #1995
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Great to hear, and Congrats on your win !!!!
Shatdrives are back !!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leester View Post
Chalk another victory up for the EXO6 at the Big Fat Turkey race in Camarillo CA this past weekend in the RRGT (GT10 17.5T class). I was able to pilot my EXO6 to the winners circle in an exciting triple A main format in the first two rounds. With mixed track conditions from high grip to "dusty" due to a farmer cultivating his field next to the track during qualifying on Saturday the EXO6 handled the changes very well. I used the alloy chassis for the event and it proved to be very responsive to setup changes.
There were a few bumpy areas on the track that the chassis handled well. The car's initial corner entry was awesome and it carried corner speed throughout all types of turns. Forward traction was very noticeable as always with the lightened drive train I run that has be discussed in detail on other posts. There were all types of "modern" chassis competing from ARC, Xray, Awesomatix and Yokomo that it outperformed. Thanks Mike R and Exotek for breathing life into a working man's affordable shaft drive car that can compete with the best!
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