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Old 06-14-2016, 01:42 PM   #1936
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Originally Posted by RollingChicane2 View Post
I've been a little hesitant of ordering the lightweight axles simply due to durability. I manage to stay pretty clean, off the walls and off other drivers. How fragile are these in a true race environment? The most common contact at our track is someone coming in too hot into a corner and tapping the inside rear of the car. The contact is usually pretty minor. Would this little amount of contact likely fracture the lightweight axles?
I used them the whole week of Reedy. I had some tussles with other cars and a wall bounce or two and they are going on 6 months strong.

Not recommended for multiple board hits though so if your track uses wood boards as lane dividers then I would stay with steel axles.
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:13 PM   #1937
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Originally Posted by RollingChicane2 View Post
I've been a little hesitant of ordering the lightweight axles simply due to durability. I manage to stay pretty clean, off the walls and off other drivers. How fragile are these in a true race environment? The most common contact at our track is someone coming in too hot into a corner and tapping the inside rear of the car. The contact is usually pretty minor. Would this little amount of contact likely fracture the lightweight axles?
Taking nothing away from Mike's axles which are machined from a high strength 7075 aluminum and hard coated for wear purposes the R1 out drives are made from spring steel and the axle itself is center bored like those made by Xray which makes them very light but durable. If you are concerned about "board meetings", the R1's would be the way to go to avoid damage in a big wreck.
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:19 PM   #1938
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It is very nice, but it needs to be part of a total drivetrain lightening program to really make a big difference. The total drivetrain losses that make a difference are over 30grams, between spool, plastic gear diffs, lightweight bones/axles, unsealed bearings, lightweight tires(even when running spec tires), lightweight wheel nuts and input shafts, light pinions/spurs, etc....
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I tested a lightweight spool at the Reedy race. It was very awesome!

ETA July
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:33 PM   #1939
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I tested a lightweight spool at the Reedy race. It was very awesome!

ETA July
What is the weight savings over stock?
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:50 PM   #1940
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It is very nice, but it needs to be part of a total drivetrain lightening program to really make a big difference. The total drivetrain losses that make a difference are over 30grams, between spool, plastic gear diffs, lightweight bones/axles, unsealed bearings, lightweight tires(even when running spec tires), lightweight wheel nuts and input shafts, light pinions/spurs, etc....
Yup... we kind of touched on that whole subject about 8-900 posts before
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:11 PM   #1941
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What is the weight savings over stock?
Tamiya spool weighs about 17gr
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:58 AM   #1942
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Thanks Mike. I'll be on the lookout for other new parts from Exotek as well though out the summer
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:17 AM   #1943
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There are many Awesomatix A700's on the previously driven market here at RCtech, that might be something to try, however I'm pretty sure the drivetrain on an evo 6 would not out last the tires
Wow, yes love the look of th A700 evo 2. What a piece of engineering.
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:43 AM   #1944
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Anyone using the alum exo6 chassis on the exo6 conversion on asphalt? If so, how does it compare to carbon fiber chassis?

Thank
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Old 06-17-2016, 03:14 PM   #1945
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Anyone using the alum exo6 chassis on the exo6 conversion on asphalt? If so, how does it compare to carbon fiber chassis?

Thank

It seems to be driver style preference right now- not a definitive answer because both works great at Tamiya track. Most guys use CF while a couple fast guys like the alloy... I think the alloy is more 'mellow' so makes the car easier to drive hard...
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Old 06-17-2016, 03:15 PM   #1946
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It seems to be driver style preference right now- not a definitive answer because both works great at Tamiya track. Most guys use CF while a couple fast guys like the alloy... I think the alloy is more 'mellow' so makes the car easier to drive hard...
Thanks Mike!
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Old 06-17-2016, 03:52 PM   #1947
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It seems to be driver style preference right now- not a definitive answer because both works great at Tamiya track. Most guys use CF while a couple fast guys like the alloy... I think the alloy is more 'mellow' so makes the car easier to drive hard...

What he said.... I prefer the alloy chassis. I find the car more consistent from lap to lap. It's 30 grams heavier but it doesn't seem to affect performance.
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:02 AM   #1948
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I'm looking to buy a new shaft driven car and I've narrowed it down to the evo 6 and evo 6 ms.

I'll be racing in parking lots! Which would you guys go with?
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Old 06-19-2016, 03:14 AM   #1949
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I'm looking to buy a new shaft driven car and I've narrowed it down to the evo 6 and evo 6 ms.

I'll be racing in parking lots! Which would you guys go with?
I would recommend the EVO6 MS. It has the better center bulkhead for better center gear alignment and if you want to change from aluminium to cf, the lower deck from the old EVO6 is an option part.

I drive mine with aluminum on asphalt. Weight is about 1378g with electronics.
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:25 PM   #1950
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@MikeR, Could you make a front pilot shaft replacement that was lightweight but also used the dogbone caps? I love the idea of not having to replace the metal pieces but instead replacing the plastic pieces as they wear. Also any thought to making lightweight gearbox replacements that are more affordable than the Tamiya hopups? They would look freaking sweet in gold.
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