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Old 02-11-2016, 10:03 PM   #1681
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I'm not a big fan of ball diffs. I have run them for years. I can build one to be ad smooth as silk and last a good while. I am just a while lot happier with gear diffs. It makes consistent set up easier and gear diff are less likely to fail at the wrong moment.

Post up that set up. I'd like to see it. I'll post up some of mine as well in the next couple days. I have one that is pretty dialed, and a couple that good starting set-ups but need fine tuning.
I was the same way and always liked gear diff better. But with this car ball diff seems to be the way to go. Even as smooth as the SpecR diff can be. It will change consistency over the period of the race day. Oh and on the usgt what made a huge difference is widening the car. Go figure! I slapped on some 7mm wide hexs just to feel out the wheel wells on some bodys I was using for looks. It locked in car. Setup to come soon!
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Old 02-12-2016, 07:13 AM   #1682
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Just an FYI on something I found this past week.

I run the R1 V7 Premium motor in USGT. A friend purchased a Motor Analyzer and let me borrow it to document all my motors. My R1 is my motor of choice but when I put it on the Motor Analyzer and measured timing, the sensor range (A vs B vs C) was more than 20* difference. I had one sensor that was so far off it was going back and forth from even reading. When it would read it would register 70+ degrees of timing with the lowest one being right at 50 degrees. (side note: my Certified D4 was 1* from the max to the min sensor reading)

I tried to "rework" the sensor but it decided to part ways with the board. I have a new one on the way.

Ironically the motor wasn't getting hot (about 140* max) but my amp draw was ridiculously high and by the end of a main, my lap times would dramatically start to fall of right at the end of the race. I'm betting a motor phase pushing >70* has something to do with that!

Hopefully when the new sensor board arrives and I get everything back together, I will have even better performance out of the motor and see if it changes my gearing / timing approach to gain that extra tenth.....
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Old 02-12-2016, 11:46 AM   #1683
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Just an FYI on something I found this past week.

I run the R1 V7 Premium motor in USGT. A friend purchased a Motor Analyzer and let me borrow it to document all my motors. My R1 is my motor of choice but when I put it on the Motor Analyzer and measured timing, the sensor range (A vs B vs C) was more than 20* difference. I had one sensor that was so far off it was going back and forth from even reading. When it would read it would register 70+ degrees of timing with the lowest one being right at 50 degrees. (side note: my Certified D4 was 1* from the max to the min sensor reading)

I tried to "rework" the sensor but it decided to part ways with the board. I have a new one on the way.

Ironically the motor wasn't getting hot (about 140* max) but my amp draw was ridiculously high and by the end of a main, my lap times would dramatically start to fall of right at the end of the race. I'm betting a motor phase pushing >70* has something to do with that!

Hopefully when the new sensor board arrives and I get everything back together, I will have even better performance out of the motor and see if it changes my gearing / timing approach to gain that extra tenth.....
I use R1 premium as well. Interesting on sensor testing. A few of us run them at my tracks. We are all in the range of 30* on can for usgt and geared around 3.6 to 3.8! Hope that helps. F1 they like to be timed at 20* on can.
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Old 02-12-2016, 01:41 PM   #1684
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I use R1 premium as well. Interesting on sensor testing. A few of us run them at my tracks. We are all in the range of 30* on can for usgt and geared around 3.6 to 3.8! Hope that helps. F1 they like to be timed at 20* on can.
30* on can = roughly 65* actual
fwiw
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:54 AM   #1685
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I use R1 premium as well. Interesting on sensor testing. A few of us run them at my tracks. We are all in the range of 30* on can for usgt and geared around 3.6 to 3.8! Hope that helps. F1 they like to be timed at 20* on can.
I'll get the motor on the analyzer this week and report the new numbers back. I just go the sensor board today but need to borrow the analyzer again. I agree with redbull that it appears that there is already 35* in the motor at 0* can timing.

I ran the D4 last night and I definitely don't feel like I was lacking with that motor. It's a good feeling to have fully capable back up cars and motors ready to step up and not lose a beat!

Pretty much no matter what chassis or motor I run, I'm within less than a tenth between all combinations.


Switching gears to VTA.....(quite literally). I changed my gearing approach in VTA to set my motor timing based on amp draw and then geared accordingly. It ended up being a huge change in timing and gearing but netting virtually identical lap times BUT the battery voltage drop during the heats / mains was definitely a lot better.
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Old 02-13-2016, 01:22 PM   #1686
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Originally Posted by RollingChicane2 View Post
I'll get the motor on the analyzer this week and report the new numbers back. I just go the sensor board today but need to borrow the analyzer again. I agree with redbull that it appears that there is already 35* in the motor at 0* can timing.

I ran the D4 last night and I definitely don't feel like I was lacking with that motor. It's a good feeling to have fully capable back up cars and motors ready to step up and not lose a beat!

Pretty much no matter what chassis or motor I run, I'm within less than a tenth between all combinations.


Switching gears to VTA.....(quite literally). I changed my gearing approach in VTA to set my motor timing based on amp draw and then geared accordingly. It ended up being a huge change in timing and gearing but netting virtually identical lap times BUT the battery voltage drop during the heats / mains was definitely a lot better.
What was your gear change in VTA?
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:56 AM   #1687
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Could anybody tell me if i want to run with 2 o rings in shock?
Then fit or not if use rod guide of this pack(Tamiya TRF Damper Rod Guide O-Ring 53574)?

Best regards
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Old 02-14-2016, 10:01 AM   #1688
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I build with 1 oring per the manual. Zero problems with leaking. Coat the treads in green slime or shock fluid before pushing them through
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:00 AM   #1689
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I build with 1 oring per the manual. Zero problems with leaking. Coat the treads in green slime or shock fluid before pushing them through
Just want to have similar as yokomo shocks.

Anyway, thanks!
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Old 02-14-2016, 08:34 PM   #1690
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Weather has been good so I got to get an outdoor practice day in. Funny I kept the same setup as carpet and they ran perfect. Going to be a good year with these cars. Ball diff is gold!
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Old 02-15-2016, 06:18 AM   #1691
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What was your gear change in VTA?
I used the motor analyzer to set the timing based off of amp draw. I set the timing at 6.0 amps. Actual timing ended up being 52* as measured (Not according to the sticker). I then swapped gearing to be 4.0

Prior to the change, I was at 41* as measured and 3.65 gearing.

Prior to the change, motor RPM was 14.8K and post change it was 21.0K

Motor came off at 110* so I think I will probably go up 1 tooth on the pinion depending on the track layout this week.
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Old 02-17-2016, 01:24 PM   #1692
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Ok so those that were curious about the 419 Trf big shocks fitting on the evo. I got my 1mm drop down spring retainers from TQ last night. Those spring retainers are key. I was able to get my ride height down to 5mm with the stiffest springs I have. Witch is equivalent to yokomo Orange or yellow I believe. I have had two sets of these shocks in my pit box now that I can use for testing different oils and such.
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Old 02-17-2016, 04:41 PM   #1693
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You have a part number for those drop down retainers?
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Old 02-17-2016, 05:01 PM   #1694
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:54 AM   #1695
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Default Recommended Final Gear Ratio for TB Evo 6

Hi Guys

Based on your experience with Evo 6 (with internal gear ratio of 2.5), what is your recommendation of the Final Gear Ratio ("FRD") or rather the pinion gear's teeth number of Evo 6, given a spur gear size 68T and a non-turbo stock motor of 17.5T. The car will run usually on a medium size track with about 40 x 30 meters area.

Thank you.
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