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Old 01-12-2016, 06:08 PM   #1576
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You could have unequal springs. Have you tried checking corner weight with the shocks and swaybars disconnected. Also try spinning the tires, you could have a soft or high spot. The key is to eliminate as many factors as possible.

When I corner weigh my car, I will twist the chassis and weigh several times. Each time I know I get different weights. I am looking for a consistently heavy cross weight. If it keeps coming back the same, I know I need to readjust my top deck screws. If it changes back and forth in ok with it. Your chassis will twist during a race. So why weigh your car like it doesn't.
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Old 01-13-2016, 06:29 AM   #1577
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You could have unequal springs. Have you tried checking corner weight with the shocks and swaybars disconnected. Also try spinning the tires, you could have a soft or high spot. The key is to eliminate as many factors as possible.

When I corner weigh my car, I will twist the chassis and weigh several times. Each time I know I get different weights. I am looking for a consistently heavy cross weight. If it keeps coming back the same, I know I need to readjust my top deck screws. If it changes back and forth in ok with it. Your chassis will twist during a race. So why weigh your car like it doesn't.

I spent a couple hours on the car last night going over it in detail. I'll fast foward to the end of the night and my approach/findings:

Verfied no tweak anywhere.
Verified that the springs were MARKED correctly (ie, i didnt have mis-matched springs side to side due to error)
Verified mechanically the is nothing bound / limited etc.

Mounted a set of rims only to remove foam / tire impact of scaling.

Scaled the car and was still 30gms heavy on one corner (RR).
I can get to ~4gms by backing off the spring collar on the heavy corner but the result is my ride height being 0.5mm lower on that corner.

Is it more preferred to have a balance car or equal ride height.

Is 30gm or 0.5mm even worth worrying about.

Any advice, questions, etc is appreciated.
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:09 AM   #1578
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Assuming the springs are reasonably well matched and the car is straight etc, I would never preload one side more than the other -in any case nothing more than half a turn of difference between L-R for a given end of the car.

There is absolutely no way you will feel the 30g difference in driving. IMHO If the car drives straight and behaves symmetrically left to right, you're good to go.
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Old 01-13-2016, 05:34 PM   #1579
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Like the kit but I'm picky and too many broken C hubs for me to be happy. It's for sale Pm me for details if interested. Great deal.

Exo 6 full set of TRF springs, spur gears and more spares. Do not have the original chassis I do have the original top deck. Will throw in some tires too.
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:23 PM   #1580
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There is absolutely no way you will feel the 30g difference in driving. IMHO If the car drives straight and behaves symmetrically left to right, you're good to go.
I concur! Not sure of your experience level but if its ok with you let a faster driver do some laps, if he's consistently faster with the 30g than you have your proof. Some "performance upgrades" takes a real consistent driver (like the pros or national champs) to take an advantage.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:43 PM   #1581
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Like the kit but I'm picky and too many broken C hubs for me to be happy. It's for sale Pm me for details if interested. Great deal.

Exo 6 full set of TRF springs, spur gears and more spares. Do not have the original chassis I do have the original top deck. Will throw in some tires too.
Broken c hubs? That's interesting.
You can always go back to old c hubs as they do hold longer.

Or stay away from curbs.
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:18 PM   #1582
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Broken c hubs? That's interesting.
You can always go back to old c hubs as they do hold longer.

Or stay away from curbs.
I ran a Sakura and it held up better friend. Love taps shouldn't break anything it happens in racing.
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Old 01-14-2016, 04:00 AM   #1583
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I agree the stock hubs are too brittle and have an excess amount of play in them, but once I went to TAO5 hubs, the car has been pretty bullet proof.

Every car made, even the X-rays made from unicorn tears have weak spots. I'm sorry you had a bad experience with yours. A pm has been sent as I am interested in your car.

After a couple of ting sessions, this car isn't what is holding me back from a podium finish, I am.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:41 AM   #1584
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I agree the stock hubs are too brittle and have an excess amount of play in them, but once I went to TAO5 hubs, the car has been pretty bullet proof.

Every car made, even the X-rays made from unicorn tears have weak spots. I'm sorry you had a bad experience with yours. A pm has been sent as I am interested in your car.

After a couple of ting sessions, this car isn't what is holding me back from a podium finish, I am.
Well said. Pmed. To win you must finish 😊
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:03 AM   #1585
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Has anyone else tried the aluminum chassis? Thoughts?
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Old 01-16-2016, 11:31 AM   #1586
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Has anyone else tried the aluminum chassis? Thoughts?
It's installed, unfortunately ran into an issue that has me on the DL. The part looks good, went together well. Certainly looking forward to running it in anger.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4663-exo-6.jpg
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:36 PM   #1587
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Does it feel less flexy than the carbon?
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Old 01-16-2016, 01:03 PM   #1588
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Does alu make any sense in 17.5 class?
Carbon will yell faster speed for sure.
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Old 01-16-2016, 01:41 PM   #1589
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Flat out speed won't have anything to do with carbon vs aluminum. The aluminum is only 20ish grams heavier. That little bit won't affect straight away speed. But if it is stiffer, it will affect corner speed. And that could make you faster per lap.
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Old 01-16-2016, 01:41 PM   #1590
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For those that converted a TB04, with its soft foam bumper, a proper bumper makes a huge difference in C-hub breakages. Im running a xray hard foam one.
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