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Old 04-02-2014, 01:59 PM   #16
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Can I ask why your are going straight to a front gear diff? Unless you are running mod I wouldn't go there
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:17 PM   #17
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Can I ask why your are going straight to a front gear diff? Unless you are running mod I wouldn't go there
you would switch to a front diff to gain turn-in that you loose with the spool. I know I did this recently on my TCXX - was running a spool, but on the track I was all, it was pushing too much. so switching to a diff, even with 300k oil, gave me better turn-in on some of the tighter turns.

Sam - if you're going to run at SJCCR (with Ray Murray), there will be a couple of other Spec-r's out. granted, we'll have the S1, but it'll be nice to see some of these out racing
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:29 PM   #18
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Personally I am thinking a front gear diff for 2 reasons from what I've read so far. First it seems to be more durable in a front crash on the front end parts since it has some give vs. a spool which doesn't. Second from what I've read it fits my off road driving style of diving fast and har into a corner under breaking and then quick power out after the apex. Correct me if I'm wrong but that is what I took away from 100+ pages of random post on the S1

Not sure what you mean by SJCC lol new to the area. For indoor/tuning runs I found a nice shop called crispy critters RC here in central/northern jersey. Once I can make it around the track there without crashing every corner I plan on heading down to the big outdoor raceway at jackson hobbies. Haha don't want to show up there and be the noob who wrecked into someone's $1000 dollar ride with my noob mobile!
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:40 PM   #19
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Personally I am thinking a front gear diff for 2 reasons from what I've read so far. First it seems to be more durable in a front crash on the front end parts since it has some give vs. a spool which doesn't. Second from what I've read it fits my off road driving style of diving fast and har into a corner under breaking and then quick power out after the apex. Correct me if I'm wrong but that is what I took away from 100+ pages of random post on the S1

Not sure what you mean by SJCC lol new to the area. For indoor/tuning runs I found a nice shop called crispy critters RC here in central/northern jersey. Once I can make it around the track there without crashing every corner I plan on heading down to the big outdoor raceway at jackson hobbies. Haha don't want to show up there and be the noob who wrecked into someone's $1000 dollar ride with my noob mobile!
SJCCR - Ray Murray's racing, South Jersey Cost Controlled Racing. Usually running in Wagner Park, in Williamstown NJ

Jackson is a real nice track - just not associated with Jackson Hobbies, honestly, not even sure that place is still open for Jackson, be prepared for 17.5 blinky since that's the most popular class there. they do USVTA (nice class, 25.5 motor vintage bodies and tires - rules at http://www.usvintagetransam.com ) but its not always a weekly class

don't worry about being someone like that. both Jackson and ray do their best to keep like skill level guys together - not saying that at times you aren't with the $1000 ride guys, but they do their best. everyone knows people are new at some time or another, and most of those $1k guys were that way at some point.

if the S2 is anything like the S1, its a good and capable car for the $$

actually, your theory is explaining why you'd want a spool or diff over a one-way. with both (spool and diff) you have 4-wheel braking and both pull from the corners - with the spool giving a little more pull, but you give up a little turn-in. and parts will break no matter what setup you run in the front, but you are right, the spools do tend to have a little more breaking compare to a diff since their outdrives are plastic vs the metal in a diff. you'll still want to run a decently heavy oil in the front diff vs the rear. I normally was running 1k in the rear diff and the diff I put in the front of my tcxx was 300k - significantly slower diff action, almost locked up but not quite. takes a good bit to spin the wheels.

a lot of guys tend to run 300k + in their front diffs, so that's something else to keep in mind. I know I read something that paul lemiuex wrote where he usually uses 500k to 1m diff oil in the front - which puts it ALMOST like a spool, but you still get diff action.
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:55 PM   #20
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K Bojar
Actully 17.5 blinky is what I'm building this thing for. Seems that's the popular class at most places. VTA seemed interesting but the two tracks near me only get enough to run VTA during the big events. Not weekly like 17.5. So for now I will have a S2 with a speed passion club ESC and SP v3 17.5 brushless setup. Planning to use a 88 (64p) kimbro spur and 44 pinion for a FDR of 3.8 as a good medium setup for the indoor carpet track and Jackson's asphalt track.
Is the a multi shim pack out there I can buy so I don't have to look for each individual pack? Simple is better in my book.
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:02 PM   #21
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K Bojar
Actully 17.5 blinky is what I'm building this thing for. Seems that's the popular class at most places. VTA seemed interesting but the two tracks near me only get enough to run VTA during the big events. Not weekly like 17.5. So for now I will have a S2 with a speed passion club ESC and SP v3 17.5 brushless setup. Planning to use a 88 (64p) kimbro spur and 44 pinion for a FDR of 3.8 as a good medium setup for the indoor carpet track and Jackson's asphalt track.
Is the a multi shim pack out there I can buy so I don't have to look for each individual pack? Simple is better in my book.
be prepared to go lower on the FDR at Jackson the SP motors are nice, but they need a lot of gear - to me, they seem more torque-based then RPM-based. I was going to try their 21.5 at the ROAR nationals a couple of years for VTA, but with the 4.2 FDR limit, I was significantly slower then with my novak 21.5 with the same gearing. so that's just something to think about

there is a guy on ebay dogboneking (http://stores.ebay.com/dogboneking?_rdc=1) that sells packs of shims for a decent price. downside, he's in hong kong, so shipping takes a little while. his still is really decent, I've bought a few packs of the shims and a few of his other things and haven't been disappointed
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:19 PM   #22
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I'd prob skip the gesrdif abd get hardend spool outdrives if it was me. Other ways to get the car to turn but those sool cups are damn delicate.
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:05 PM   #23
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Dang. Talked to TQRCRACING and they won't get the S2 till after the 10th which means with shipping I won't see my kit till around the 20th. I'm already tired of waiting since I hit the buy button on Saturday.
Going to go nuts as all the parts and stuff I bought for this kit arrives in the next couple of days and not being able to play with my new toy for 2 more weeks

Guessing 2 4000mah lipo's should be enough to cover me for an average race day of 2-3 5min heats and a 8min main. Got some new Gens Ace lipo's arriving this week.
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:08 PM   #24
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Dang. Talked to TQRCRACING and they won't get the S2 till after the 10th which means with shipping I won't see my kit till around the 20th. I'm already tired of waiting since I hit the buy button on Saturday.
Going to go nuts as all the parts and stuff I bought for this kit arrives in the next couple of days and not being able to play with my new toy for 2 more weeks

Guessing 2 4000mah lipo's should be enough to cover me for an average race day of 2-3 5min heats and a 8min main. Got some new Gens Ace lipo's arriving this week.
don't be too afraid of TQ's shipping.. they are probably the fastest shipping company I have ever dealt with. I've ordered parts on a Monday at 10, and had then in my possession by Wednesday - and that wasn't with priority shipping

those batteries might be ok. but you'll probably want to look at 5500+ on packs. onroad is harder on packs then offroad - especially 17.5. most guys are now running 6500 packs
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:19 PM   #25
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Hmm will a 4000mah make it through a 17.5 8 min main? If not back hobbypartz it is for another lipo dangit.
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Old 04-03-2014, 05:13 AM   #26
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Hmm will a 4000mah make it through a 17.5 8 min main? If not back hobbypartz it is for another lipo dangit.
it'll be very very close... I'm not sure how big critter's track is, but that sounds very close to what you could take out of a pack racing..

like I said, on-road is 'harder' on batteries then offroad - that 4000 pack would probably survive an 8min offroad race with a 13.5

but if critters' track isn't that big, you might make it. just make sure you have the low voltage cutoff set correctly - or else, you'll run the risk of damaging the packs
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:32 AM   #27
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Buy with confidence from tq. I can buy on Monday and often get it on Friday in canada for small parts. Every bit as good as amainhobbies.
If they carrid vbc I'd never have to shop elsewhere. Short of modified motor and stuff.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:46 PM   #28
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Why are we starting a new thread?

Although the other one is labeled R1, it has been understood to be for both the S1, R1 and R1 ProSpec.

Having two conversations going about what are essentially the same car helps no one.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:43 PM   #29
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In your opinion, can this model handle a 4.5T ?
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Old 04-09-2014, 02:10 PM   #30
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Not if you hit things. You will want the r1 for any extended mod abuse.
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