Originally posted by Zirex
First of all thanks to Imuiru for your infor...
Thanks to danjoy25 too...
But how am i gonna "Remagnetize the magnets" ??? Is there any equipment to do it ?? Anyone got any idea bout it ??
Try this one and let me know how you go. I myself will be trying to make one of this things soon
The basic process of re-magnetizing involves placing the depleted magnet core/motor can through a coil of wire which has a momentarily strong "DC!" current passing through it.
The coil is made on a form consisting of a 540 motor can diameter round dowel fitted with flat end plates - similar in appearance to a typewriter ribbon or film reel. Duon sa gitna lulusot ang motor can. The width of the form, or the distance between the end plates is 7/8". At least one of the end plates needs to be removable so that the finished coil can be removed. It is suggested that strips of cotton or other insulating material be used to cover the form before the wire is wound on.
For 6V DC Current
The coil itself is made up of 196 turns of #16 AWG enameled covered wire laid down in 14 layers of 14 close wound turns each. This amounts to a pound of wire - a unit of measure in which the wire can be bought. When you are finished with the windings, you need to continue with the taping so that the coil will not fray and will stand up to use. Perhaps you might want to attached sturdier multi-strand lead-in wires such as you find on a power supply transformer. Just make sure that the "hole" in the coil is kept clear for its intended use.This coil, as designed, should draw about 12 amps on a 6 volt motor cycle car battery.
12V DC COIL
In order to accommodate the higher voltage, change the wire size to 22 AWG and increased the winding to about 200 turns.
A safety point, you must be VERY cautious and aware that either voltage version of this coil will heat up quickly due to the fairly high current draw. However, as indicated below, only a momentary application of voltage to the coil is necessary.
The actual re-magnetizing process goes like this;
The motor can, armature and endbell removed, is slipped through the coil. Position is not important so long as some part of the magnet is ALL the way through the coil.
A "keeper" of soft steel MUST be in place across the pole faces before the coil voltage is applied. this is very important in order to properly conduct the magnetic lines of force through the magnet core. The keeper must lie smooth and flat on the pole faces - just like they did on those toy magnets that we had when we were kids.
The coil is momentarily placed across the supply voltage - for no more than a second. Again, be VERY careful at this point concerning coil heating. You could, of course, use a power supply instead of a battery, but you'll need one that can supply about 15 Amps.
With your third hand(!?), and while the coil is connected to the voltage, strike the magnet with a sharp blow with a small hammer. Presumably this helps the steel molecules to align magnetically.
So that's it. Careful re-assembly your motor, it should be good as new. If you burn yourself while doing it, I take no fault and make no guarantees!