STOCK motor forum
#781
To power them you need to solder or place under spring as a temp. What I do is run a slave motor and 1 brush at a time. Both brushes with a slave will generate arcing as per Big Jim. Works for me.
#783
correct. I reverse the slave. Its an old motor I have for that purpose.
#784
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Ok, now that all makes sense to me...
Here is what I am drawing from all this...Just a recap really...
1. Use a none-serrated brush, you guys are recommending the 766 from Reedy
2. Use a slave motor, since this will prevent arching which could cause false results I guess??? or does it make the wear mark harder to see?
3. Make sure the slave motor rotates in reverse...
To correct the hood alignment:
1. Loosen both the spring post and other screw holding the hood and using an alignment bar turn the hood slightly to the opposite side of the offset wear mark, so if the wear mark is slight ahead of the rotation turn the hood back...
2. repeat until right down the center of the brush...
Thanks guys....You da'men!
Next topic...properly breaking in bushings....
Here is what I am drawing from all this...Just a recap really...
1. Use a none-serrated brush, you guys are recommending the 766 from Reedy
2. Use a slave motor, since this will prevent arching which could cause false results I guess??? or does it make the wear mark harder to see?
3. Make sure the slave motor rotates in reverse...
To correct the hood alignment:
1. Loosen both the spring post and other screw holding the hood and using an alignment bar turn the hood slightly to the opposite side of the offset wear mark, so if the wear mark is slight ahead of the rotation turn the hood back...
2. repeat until right down the center of the brush...
Thanks guys....You da'men!
Next topic...properly breaking in bushings....
#785
Checkout Big Jim's motor black book" Has a lot of good info from one of the premeir motor designers and builders. Designed the P2K.
On break in, I do one brush so it does not arc and burn the brush. At 3 volts wear in minimal anyway. FYI I use a Turbo 35 to run and breakin motor. Lets me regulate the voltage better. Note on some hoods, MVP especially you have to elongate the slot. Big Jim recomends to do the spring post side only.
On break in, I do one brush so it does not arc and burn the brush. At 3 volts wear in minimal anyway. FYI I use a Turbo 35 to run and breakin motor. Lets me regulate the voltage better. Note on some hoods, MVP especially you have to elongate the slot. Big Jim recomends to do the spring post side only.
#787
Comm drops help to reduce friction between the comm and brushes. The effectt doesn't last that long. Some come drops are better then others builit makes a good comm drops it adds some RPM and Efficiency to the motor and last a little longer. Bad side to comm drops to much of it attracks dirt.
#788
Regional Moderator
Originally posted by rowdyrj
Comm drops help to reduce friction between the comm and brushes. The effectt doesn't last that long. Some come drops are better then others builit makes a good comm drops it adds some RPM and Efficiency to the motor and last a little longer. Bad side to comm drops to much of it attracks dirt.
Comm drops help to reduce friction between the comm and brushes. The effectt doesn't last that long. Some come drops are better then others builit makes a good comm drops it adds some RPM and Efficiency to the motor and last a little longer. Bad side to comm drops to much of it attracks dirt.
#789
I would recommend cutting your comm every time you change your brush. I read the input above and said the comm has only been cut once, but brushes have been changed multiple times. Try cutting the comm next time you replace your brushes and I am sure you will feel the difference. I also believe Big Jim recommends this same method.
#790
Regional Moderator
I;m not sure about that one Rob but I'll check out bigjim's website. I know the drops are easy on the comms so that you don't have to cut the comm that much. I can tell you that I still get some serious result when replacing the brushes and not cutting the comm. I know that's the rule of thumb, cut comm when replacing brushes. I just haven't needed to do so, as of yet.......knock on wood
#791
Tech Regular
Even if the brushes were made of teflon and had NO friction, you would still need to cut your comm. This is due to an electroplating process. Just like gold plating. When the electricity comes from the (-) side through the wire and out the (+) side, it takes a little bit of material from the comm and sticks it onto the brush. That is why there is a small amount of burning between the poles on the comm. That and just plane ole dead shorting!
#792
When you replace brushes, break them in, then cut the comm. Otherwise, you lose some of the benefit of a cut comm.
#793
Regional Moderator
Have you guys tried TRIBO? pyscho, Pit Crew?
#794
Yep. Works great. I use it for bushing lube and comm drops. Just make sure you clean out the motor well and replace the brushes before using Tribo if you've been using some other comm drops. Most comm drops cause a chemical reaction with the brush and when that mixes with Tribo, you get a big mess!
#795
Regional Moderator
Yeah pyscho I know, I use it too. The reason I ask is because one of the benefits of using this is you don't have to cut the comm as often. I'm not saying that I don't cut my comm I cut it less than anyone else on the track. Maybe I can cut it more often than what I'm doing now, I don't argue that but I don't and it still works for me.