acloco

Try the Tribo....it works! Ran a P2K - 6 runs of onroad TC, 7 packs in truck offroad, and 6 runs of carpet....all in one weekend. Simply cleaned after every run (did NOT disassemble, only removed brushes and sprayed), applied one drop of Tribo - just enough to wet the face of ONE brush, rotated motor back and forth to distribute the Tribo across the comm, ran for 10-20 seconds, and ran the motor.

Now...the question you SHOULD be asking yourself...how MUCH did I have to cut the comm after all of this? I removed 0.0015 after 19 packs through one motor.

Bflat

I mess with them a little bit and all of them r super fast next week i'll buy 10 mvp's and do the same thing u have to love this stuff!!!!!!!

wrxmy99

Hey all.

Just upgraded from my Chrome Stock to a P2K2 Pro and ran it in my Pro 3 at Round 2 of the Aussie HPI Challenge. All I can say is what a let down.

The track is fairly open with a looong sweeper coming onto a looong start finish straight, then a few twisties then a series of 3-4 medium straights with 180 degree turns between them before coming onto the sweeper again.

Using 48 pitch gears I used to use a 27/72 combination in the Chrome with pretty good results. With the P2K2 I tried everything from 26/78 to 29/72 and still couldn't get it to happen. For such a high reving motor (Dyno printout says 31000 whereas the Chrome was 23000) I thought the 26/78 was a good place to start but that was the worst of all.

The P2K2 Pro is bog stock out of the packet (except for replacing the bushings with bearings which we are allowed to do in Australia)

Any help would be appreciated as I'm REALLY disappointed. At the moment I'm glad I grabbed a Core Stock from Tower at the same time.

Thanks in advance.

Andrew

Simon K

WRXmy99,

You might find that the dyno printouts won't be much help, if they are the ones in the packets.
They'll give an indication of performance but I wouldn't treat them as gospel. Don't compare results from one type of dyno with another(Robitronic/Competition electronics/C.S), it doesn't work due to the different way the loads are applied and various other things.

Until the motor is fully broken in(bushings and brushes), it won't be at it's very best.

Considering you change to bearings, that removes one variable but the brushes remain.

Go with the Core.

wrxmy99

Simon

Well the brushes have had 6 5 minute runs on them an the thing didn't get any better.

Any advice for gearing on the Core compared to the Chrome?

Does my gearing below sound waaay out of the ballpark?

Simon K

As far as the Core goes, one source has commented on how similar it and the MVP are, so starting the gearing fairly low(6.36 to 1) and working from there would be my first suggestion. Align brush hoods too.

Possibly narrowing some brushes? See attached file.

Simon K

As far as the Core goes, one source has commented on how similar it and the MVP are, so starting the gearing fairly low and working from there would be my first suggestion. Align brush hoods too.

Possibly narrowing some brushes? See attached file.

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

p2k2's that we get in minnesota like to run about one tooth bigger then gm3. thus making it a rpm motor w/ a little more torque. i know they arent any different but then again every lot out of trinity is different, so who's to say. i really liked my p2k2 w/ the stock settings and all i did was cut the motor. i didint change the brushes and i'd get 3-4 solid runs per skim of the comm. comm wear wasent bad seeing as how i would skim it to return performance. then once the brushes were flush w/ the comm face, i left it alone, lubed the bushings and went.

Wild Cherry

I have been running the core stock in off-road for a month now...
compared to a p2k2 I would gear it 2 teeth down lower .

This motor likes a red spring & a high silver bursh ( 767`s) on the plus side. Leave the original bursh & spring on the neg.
( good for buggy`s & sedans)
For more torque use a red spring on the neg .... ( truck & 4w & sedan )

The main diff between the two motor`s is the p2k2 has a bit more torque.The core rev`s a bit higher....
The core is alot smoother though....
I feel thats why it is so fast...
Between the two I choose the Orion core hands down....


gearing sugestions...
B-3 >>> 22P 81spur
T-3>>> 17P<>18P 87spur
Tc-3>>> outdoor 39P<>40P 96spur


I would like to say this as well...
Those who say the Core is like a MVP ,I believe they are way wrong....
This motor is alot faster in everyway....
No comparision in my opinion....
The core does get hot if over gear , but if gear just right, it really does not get all that hot.... just like a good motor sould...
Never seen a MVP do that....


We ran these motor`s in Off-road stock nats in Utah..
Inside it was a cool 95 degree`s ...outside 107 degrees.
Sure they got a bit hot ,but they never faded.
I never saw anyone complain about these motors at the National.
Everyone felt they had a great motor.....

So try one and you will agree !

work

iTrader: (1)

Anyone here familiar with Tamiya type t motors? It has heatsinks in it. I'm thinking about transfering the Tamiya heatsink to my P2K2. Do you think it will really cool down the motor?

RC Nitro

shrekair: Found the same here. I have both GM3's and P2K2. Run my P2K2 1 tooth higher than a GM3, or ~ 1mm more rollout. All I have done to date is true comm, wear is great. I did add the brush shuts from my dead hellfire, otherwise stock with red/green combo and pro brush (4499). P2K2 gives better 20 - 28 amp numbers on my fantom dyno.

Wild Cherry: Core = Hellfire, not a MVP. Both use the same wet C4 magnets as does the MVP. Core and Hellfire are "TOP" motors, whereas MVP is a Yokomo motor. I have had both. Like you, I prefer the Hellfire to MVP. Lost my Hellfire when Cpt crash t-boned me in the main 3 weeks ago, endbell cracked.

psycho

work

My experience with clip on heatsinks is that they are not worth the weight penalty on stock motors. You should be able to keep the motor at a comfortable temp by using the correct gearing for your track.

Wild Cherry

I think Roar rules state you can not add & modiflied your stock motor`s..
That includes heat sink`s mounted on the endbell...
I`m sure for club racing no one would care, but thats the rule...

ahibj8

The Core, Hellfire and MPV are made by Sagami in Japan.

The Core and Hellfire's came out after MPV's and Peak asked that the new motors are built as per MPV specs.

Simon K

Bflat,
Think you might be in the wrong forum, try www.noonecares.com

Psycho,
Here in NZ, almost every stock racer uses a clip-on heatsink. The only ones who don't, generally can't due to the design of some cars. Weight shouldn't be an issue as the cars are usually under to start with.