shrekair

iTrader: (9)

stock motor Q's here

coolrcdad

OK, Moving my Core stock questions here. Thanks shrekair for posting.
Anyway, what's the best spring/brush combo for the Core for touring car? Do you gear these any differently than P2Ks or P2K2s?

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

gear them like a GM3. stock springs work and so does a standard red/green. 4499 seem to be working good too.

TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

shrekair,

since you are asking for stock motor questions, I have a question that is a mystery to me, even after reading Big Jim's book and postings et al....

Brush Hood Alignment...here is my scenario, I just finish re-building a motor (cut, new brushes, cleaned everything, shimmed it etc) and begin the break in process.

Using 3 volts for 300 seconds on my Turbo 35, I notice at the start of the breakin alot of sparks, which should be normal for 4499's with the serations. But even after break I am seeing what I feel are too many sparks...

How do you determine what to do to the hoods in order to reduce the amount of sparks do you rotate the hood towards the sparking side of the brush or away...

I guess the concept just doesnt connect with me for some reason but I know I am loosing power in my stock motors because I can not figure this out...

Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated...

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

i would try breaking the motor in with some sor tof comm drop. or even a performance drop like tribo will work. if the hoods are aligned straight, then the brush just wont seat with the face, you gotta help it. once you play with the hood angle u start to mess with timing. then things often become inconsistant

rod_b

coolrcdad - I answered your question in the other thread. As for gearing, I ran one of these (tuned version) straight out of the package in my XXX-S. I geared it similarly to a P2K2 (6.5 FDR - for me anyway). It had great torque and good speed on the straight-away. It was only slower than some of the personally tuned motors of the fast guys. Not bad for out of the package.

TigeRyan - Check your brushes for blackening of the trailing edge. That means you're getting arcing (a bad thing). You have to compensate for the brush shifting in the hood. If you have trailing edge arcing, you should adjust to the right to try to get the trailing edge to make contact. Good luck

Tres

iTrader: (14)

I'm using the Axiom version of the motor with their brushes...

Part# 1203
12% Silver with cavity (Serrated)

Checkout:
Axiom Motors Products Page

These things rock...
I will post dyno pulls I have...
7.0V & 120 Watts @ 21A...

as far as gearing on a TC3?
XXX and 78/22 for a small high traction track and
128/32 for a small carpet track with my XXXs.....

Simon K

If you're following Big Jim's suggestions, he says not to put any drops on the brush when breaking it in.

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

but then again thats following big jim. i dont always follow big jim or mike reedy or troy shroeder. all are fast, who says who is right?

coolrcdad

Just found out that there will be a hand-out motor for GT-2 class at the Tamiya nats this year (Tamiya won't say which one until week of race). I'm assuming it will be a Tamiya stocker. Anyone have any tuning experience with these (Type R, S &T)? Thanks.

Simon K

Common sense would indicate that lubricating the brush while breaking it in will slow the process down.
The idea behind "No drops" is that normal friction will allow the brush to wear and then bed-in. Adding drops reduces that friction, lengthening the process.
Of course, the type of drops used also have an effect. Depends what type of chemical they are.

ixlr8nz

Sorry that this is off the topic, but are you going to the Aussie Nats, Simon?

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

but them again, comm drops generally soften the metal of the comm and the brush surface ever so slightly. thus enhancing the breakin process. and certain drops work in such a way that it lubricates and softens in such a way that the motor doesnt loose life run to run, but softens the metal to get a better contact thus better performance w/ equal life. soem drops do say though to spray out after every run and re-lubricate to maintain performance. i'm new to the world of comm drops but i started using ones that said break in, spray out and re-lube. then after every run, spray out and re-lube. but i also know i'm getting the same performance as the first run after 4-6 runs instead of the 2-4 runs w/o comm drops i was getting before.

anyone one elses pros-cons about comm drops, and which drops you use?

Simon K

LOL!
I doubt it, unless I win Lotto or Kachingo! between now and then.
Might race offroad at the North Islands or go to the 4 and Rotary Nats, Not too sure at the moment. I know that I'll be hanging up my transmitter for a while after the last round of the Hamilton drivers series.

Shrekair,
As I mentioned in the tail end of the post, it does depend on the chemical makeup of the drops. I use Tribo which is more of a "Comm lubricant".

marvi

iTrader: (82)

im using a tamiya type R. some of the local racers felt that the type T was a bit faster out of the box. i dont have a dyno but my car seemed to accelerate faster and had higher top speed after i did the following: after the stock type R brushes wore down, i replaced them with trinity silver brushes then i used stiffer springs (the black ones from a dynarun stock motor.) the downside is that the comm might wear down faster because of the harder brushes and stiffer springs.