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I have a couple of questions on what is the best car kit is for my money. I am as of now looking at the HPI RS4 Pro 4 electric or the XRAY T1FK'05. Please give me some tips on what is the best bang for my buck. (I am willing to spend 300-400$ on the car and 700-800$ on it total with (motor, speed controle, raidio/servo's, charger...)

Also i would like some help with motors. What will suit me best with just messing arround in the driveway/local street when racing some freinds. Not the serious stuff just for fun. (I hope to get more serious in racing a little later when i am more experienced)

P.S. Shine the light onto what single, double, triple... motors are and what turns are. Thank You

Just a newbie looking for answers

If you could IM me my aim is: averagejoe1088

dynoman007

depending on what your local hobby shop has for parts the ftk05 is very durable the hpi car is ok ....

cant go wrong with the quantum 2 speedo

any motor will do you right in stock

cars.cars.cars

thank you ill look into that one.

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

I think the Pro4 will suit you better. Mainly because there is less maintenence involved. The car has been very tough for me. The X-Ray is an all out racing machine that needs maintenence. The open ball diffs will get dirty all the time, and will constantly need rebuilding. It is the same way with my Pro2, and after about two rebuilds between 15 runs, it starts to get old quick... Since the Pro4 diff housing is completely closed, very little (if any) dirt and grime gets in there. And when you are more experienced, the Pro4 will suit you just fine for serious racing. The differential cleaning was a big selling point for me. Less maintenence = more driving!

In terms of ESC's, there are dozens of good ones out there. Novak's GTX and GT7 are very good, as well as the Quantums that Dynoman mentioned. LRP also has their IPC series, which includes the SR and 7.1, both respectable ESC. KO has their VFS versions- the list goes on. If you are looking at stock motors, any name brand motor should work, and for modifieds I haven't heard anything bad about Orion's V2. I think a 12-13 turn motor should be fine. When you race you can change the armature to a lower wind. Basically- the lower turns will be faster. So a 12 turn will be faster than a 13 turn. But you trade off efficiency, and therefore runtime. The winds are related to the powerbands (I believe, I hear different things all the time...). Lower winds, like singles and doubles, have the powerband early on, while triples and quads are later on. But single and double wind motors have less efficiency. High-wind motors are used for offroad, to avoid wheelspin from too much torque.

I think that's it. If you need anything else, just give us a hollar.
-Josh

cars.cars.cars

how much do those motores usually go for

muahaha

These are the few top of the crop cars currently around

Tamiya - 415ms (belt), evo4ms(shaft)
Yokomo - Bd(belt), LCG-SD(shaft)
HPI - Pro4 2005 hara edition(Shaft)
Team AE - TC4 factory kit(shaft)
Losi - JRX street weapon(Belt)
Corally - RDX(Belt)
Hudy - Xray FK05(belt)
Alex Racing - Baracuda(Belt)
Schumacher - MI2(belt)

Pls noted that this list does not put the car in any order at all. All these car r capable of winning. Just pick the one that u like the most and/or the one which the lhs have the most support for.

As for me, I drive a BD myself, it's not that it's superior to any of the car listed, but the fact that it's the one i like the most and the easiest one for me to work on, thats all. All these car can be setup to handle more or less the same. So go with ur head and heart. Pick the one u like cos' it's gonna be ur ride for a while.

As far as electronic goes heres another list

Radio
Ko propo - Helious, Helious competition, vantage type r(stick)
Futaba - 3pm, 3pk, 9z wc2(stick, more of a plane radio but will work with car)
airtronic - m8
hitec - agressor srx

servo
ko propo - 2343
futaba - 9550, 9451

esc
novak - gtx
lrp - quantum2
teiken - g10+ pro
keyence - rapida pro( aka ZXE)

batt
any gp3700 based battery

motor
any orion v2 or trinity cobolt based motor(modifieds)
any trinity based motor(stock)
-monster, monster pro
-p2k, p2k2, p2k2 pro

P.O.A, It's the driver that wins the race. Not what car or electronic he race with. eg masami or barry baker will still kick 98% rc drivers butt no matter what car they drive.

Ben.C

Both cars are good actually.Just personal preference whether to run belt of shaft cars.Basically I like belts cars.

As for speedos,any brand with good name will have good ESCs.But I would like to recommand Novak,cause of their good customer service.

For stocker,I would recommand a V2 base stocker,as they last longer between rebuilds.

Batteries,at GP base 3700s would be good.So are the IB3800s...

Controller,for your budget,I think a Futaba 2PL will be good.Since its digital,you can upgrade the servos that come with it next time.

Charger,Any good brand would be good.Like Orion,muchmore etc...

My 2 cents,.

jdm19turn

iTrader: (1)

TeamGO

We have the same crossroad and opted for Pro4 for our team drivers this year. This decision is given in the favor of Pro4 since our tracks are more likely parking lots than racetracks

We are very happy with this decision and both drivers doing really well this year. Only prob that we have is the main gear in the diff when we use one-ways. But this also resolved with spacers and chosing ball-diffs whenever we can.

Hope it helps.

ThePrfctGetaway

There are a lot of good electric cars out today...

Team Associated TC4
Team Associated TC3 (discontinued but you can buy the FT Kit still online)
HPI Pro 4
XRAY T1FK05
XRAY T1R
XRAY T1FK04
Tamiya 415

...and the list goes on and on. If you're looking to screw around on the street and what not, the TC4 or TC3 are good to start with. Not much to maintain, and you won't have to worry about scratching up that nice carbon fiber chassis (XRAY T1R, T1FK04/05, Pro4, etc.). Regarding electric motors, you say you want to race your friends, what are they running? If they're running like cheapo $20 19 Turn motors, you could definitely get away with a Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro. Motor is fast, doesn't require much maintainence, and you'll get some nice runtimes out of it.

Now, regarding turns, winds, and what not:

Turns: The number of times wire has been wrapped around the armature
Rule of Thumb: The fewer the turns, the higher the RPM (revolutions per minute). But remember, run time and motor life DECREASE as the number of turns go down.
Winds: The number of strands in the armature wire.
Rule of Thumb: Low winds offer explosive, low-end "punch"; high winds, more top-end speed.

So what all that stuff means is the lower the turns, the faster the motor goes, and the quicker the motor is going to need to be rebuilt. The more winds, the more top-speed you get but it takes longer to get up to speed. Less winds, more acceleration. You want low winds if you want to beat your friends.

My suggestions:

Stock: Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro
19T: Trinity Chameleon2 Pro
Modified: Trinity D6 14T Single Flatwire

"T" means turns. If you want to run modified motors later on, get something with no limit on motors.

Something like:

LRP Quantum Competition 2, Novak GTX, or Novak GT7. Those are the top 3 speed controls that I see being used often. You're going to need a radio and steering servos too. Get a radio that has some good adjustability, that way it'll perform better. I have a Futaba 3PM FM radio, and personally, I like it. It's got all the options of adjustability that I need.

Radios:

\\\Futaba: 3PM, & 3PK
\\\Airtronics: MX-3S, & M11 (replacing M8)
\\\Hitec: Aggressor, & Aggressor SRX
\\\KO Propo: EX-10 Helios, Vantage Esprit Type R, EX-1 Mars R, & EX-11 Presto

Servos:

\\\Futaba S9550 Digital Servo
\\\There are others, but thats what I have and it's awsome.

Now comes the fun part, batteries and battery chargers. You want a good charger that can get the most out of your packs. Since you're new, get a stick pack. They're not as bad as everyone proclaims them to be. Get a Ni-MH pack. They're loaded with power. There are different mAhr (milliamp rating):

3300mAh, 3600mAh, 3700mAh, and 3800mAh. Obviously, the more mAh, the more runtime you get. If you get a TC3 or TC4, the stick pack can just slide right in. The other cars, the stick pack would just slide out. SMC makes a 3300mAh stick pack for $30-$40 and it's great. Now about chargers, AC/DC is obviously the most conveinient. The Reedy Quasar Pro is a good charger, you can get that at KT Hobbies for $149.99 (but for a limited time I'm assuming). There are others out there, but the good ones, really only a handful are AC/DC. I hope all this information has helped you out.

Rich

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thank you all it has helped A LOT!!

im looking more toward the pro 4 now but should i get the hara edition or no. i have the money just dont know if its worth the extra 100$. Any answers?

cars.cars.cars

what wheels and gear ratios would you use for the Associated Reedy MVP Stock Plus Rebuildable Motor
and what wheels and gear ratios would you use for the Epic ROAR Rebuildable Stock Pro Motor
(simple terms please new at this.) Thank you

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

I think the Hara edition should be good. You get a few more accessories, and you will end up spending less money in the long run. As for gear ratios, when you assemble the car it will have all the info about that in there. You can also look on HPI's website- it is page 32 in the regular edition manual. It all really depends on what motor you run. But since you are running stock, it says to keep the FDR (Final Drive Ratio) to 6.4-7.2. So with the stock spur gear you can run anything from 33-37 tooth pinion. For tires... The Take-Off premounted series has been really popular, and is cheaper than mounting your own tires. CS-27's should be fine. You can get them at www.allspeedhobbies.com.
-Josh

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whats the difference between A,B,C,D... foam tires.

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

If you are talking about the HPI foams, forget about it. They won't fit. They rub up against the steering blocks, REALLY slowing the car down. You either have to file down the steering knuckle or the foam. They work good for the rears, but don't bother with the fronts...
-Josh