AlexPate

iTrader: (19)

And... Voila

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

no please, enlighten me

sbd

Simple as it gets, adjustable as it gets, sturdy as it gets, the best pancar rear shaft and differential, works great out of the box.

DavidNERODease

I hope VBC adopts a similar design to the X-1 but adds their usual tricks and flare. Then at least there would something else on the market worth considering. Add a floating servo mount to the X-1 design (super easy with this design) which would eliminate chassis twist due to servo torque.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

desperate times call for desperate measures


Waiting for the replacement part to come in the mail. I made a bunch of these in case they break in a crash.

AlexPate

iTrader: (19)

Wow, never seen one of those break before. Make sure your pod is square. Check ride height left to right front to back to make sure
Looks awesome though.

skyball

I just had a quite successful weekend at the ETS in Mattsee, Austria. Made it into the A-Mains at ETS for the first time, started 8th and finished 7th out of around 70 drivers. Usually I don't make the A-Mains, but rather the B-Mains or sometimes even C. But the car ran just fantastic, so I thought I'd share my setup.

Christian

BTW, videos can be seen on http://ets.redrc.net/

xbass

Hi
I still have a problem with my Lighning.
When breacking from an long straight, the rear doesnt "hold"
In fast corners erverytime, the rear are always instable.
So in all situation the rear is not stable.
My Setup:
Camber 1,5°
Caster 5°
Side link: inner position
Spring Front: Tamiya Gold
Spring Side: Tamiya Silver (Testing Cupper to Black)
Side Damping: 60k (Testing 60k - 100k)
Main Damping: 800 Oil ; 2 Hole ; Tamiya Red Spring.
Motor: LRP 21.5
Tyre: Ride R1

I was testing the Front from the Flash 04 but nothing changed.

Now i changed the link position but the weather is not so fine to test (Rain today)

Anyone an idea ?
Thanks a lot

Gtr r34 m-spec

iTrader: (29)

Turn the brake eta % or esc down so it doesn't brake so hard.

xbass

Thanks a lot
Break is at 50 % it maybe will be better at the break point, but not at full speed in an long corner

AlexPate

iTrader: (19)

What kind of surface are you running on. And possibly check the glue on your tires. Also is your car tweaked? That would give instability under braking. Lift the nose from the center and spin the front wheels. Lower the car back down and of one wheel hits the ground before the other them the car is tweaked. You would adjust this with your side springs. Be careful
I had rear pod tweaked and when the tires hit the ground evenly there was 1mm difference in left to right ride height

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Bad driving, a few somersaults/barrel rolls and a rear end from a much faster TC tends to break the toughest things.

Found a new (better) track with a separate track for F1, FF cars or any newbies that wants to play. At least I wont get rear ended again.

Tossed the mangled body and painted up a new scheme

Viking Racing

iTrader: (2)

I like the body and wings better than what I am running? What brand are they?

AlexPate

iTrader: (19)

Be careful most rules in North America say no lexan front wings

xbass

Yes tweak is ok.
The differnt between left and right i found out this weekend, and checked, that there are differnts between the Alu mounts.
Ride high is ok on the pod 6mm and the front 6mm, in the center (under the Accu) 6 mm. Everything looks fine.
Bearings are all ok, running fine (front Wheels about 5 min free run).
A good friend from my club drive STM (Austria) in Formel class and this week he finsh in 2th posision and he can not find out why my lighning is so tricky to drive.
We drive on Asphalt.
When we take a look on the stable by accelerating:
With Tamiya cupper (silver) side springs , it was not possible to accelerate very fast (out of Conner). When i mount VBC Black the Car was stabe und there was no oversteer, but in other situation the car was very very tricky to drive.