Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
New vbc f-1 lightingf >

New vbc f-1 lightingf

New vbc f-1 lightingf

Old 02-22-2015, 11:59 AM
  #226  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dublin CA
Posts: 264
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Thought people choose tuning haus one over the stock because of the durability, paticularily.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
aackjw is offline  
Old 02-22-2015, 01:40 PM
  #227  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
AlexPate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Tuning haus King pin v2 removed the upper circlips groove. That was the weak spot of the King pin. You then set ride height by locking the steering knuckle with the set screw
AlexPate is offline  
Old 02-22-2015, 04:32 PM
  #228  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,975
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I can't see the v2 being more durable than other coated kingpins unless they are made tougher steel.

As Alex said, the v1 have the same design as stock which has the groove above the steering knuckle which creates a weak point
disaster999 is offline  
Old 02-24-2015, 04:22 AM
  #229  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
ta04evah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,616
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hi all,

After a disastrous experience with a different F1 (Street Jam) I'm looking for a replacement F1 car, but won't be buying until the end of next month, so am doing some research into which car to get, because I don't want to make the same mistake again.

Prior to buying the Street Jam, the VBC LightningF was on my shortlist, and I regretted not going with the VBC.
So, apart from the front king pins being a problem, what other issues, if any should I be aware of, and any tips would be very appreciated.

I intend to mainly use the car on asphalt surfaces with rubber tires, switching from Shimizu softs during our winter, and the Ride R1's during the summer months.

I'm also contemplating the Xray F1, because it also strikes me as being both a quality car to build, & drive along with parts support at a shop that's in my town. I've also heard good things about VBC from others that own & race VBC cars, so I'm assuming that the quality is going to be what I expect it to be for my money.

Regards
Rob.
ta04evah is offline  
Old 02-24-2015, 09:06 AM
  #230  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,975
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ta04evah
Hi all,

After a disastrous experience with a different F1 (Street Jam) I'm looking for a replacement F1 car, but won't be buying until the end of next month, so am doing some research into which car to get, because I don't want to make the same mistake again.

Prior to buying the Street Jam, the VBC LightningF was on my shortlist, and I regretted not going with the VBC.
So, apart from the front king pins being a problem, what other issues, if any should I be aware of, and any tips would be very appreciated.

I intend to mainly use the car on asphalt surfaces with rubber tires, switching from Shimizu softs during our winter, and the Ride R1's during the summer months.

I'm also contemplating the Xray F1, because it also strikes me as being both a quality car to build, & drive along with parts support at a shop that's in my town. I've also heard good things about VBC from others that own & race VBC cars, so I'm assuming that the quality is going to be what I expect it to be for my money.

Regards
Rob.
From what Ive observed so far, the stock shock that came with the car is garbage. It holds as much oil as a sieve and needs rebuilding before every run. I heard good things about Team Prime's 12th / F1 shock and ordered it to replace the stock one.

The front end of the car is a bit tricky to put together. I had a lot of trouble with the caster blocks aligning with the upper "A arms" and pretty much muscled their way in. After that its not so bad to reinstall after they have seated.

The instruction called for cutting off the ear on the servo, but I found that its not necessary for my savox servo. Depending on what servo you use, you probably dont need to either. If possible, i would definitely not sacrifice a perfectly fine normal just for this car and spend money to buy a replacement case later.

The stock rear wing holder wouldnt work with the Tamiya F60 rear wing unless you put it on the highest setting or remove a lot of material from the wing to fit. I suggest you go with a different type of body/wing combo.

Sand the diff ring with 600 or 800 grit sand paper before installing it. I find that the stock rings is pretty rough out of the box and the diff feels very gritty.

Bearing in right side hub is VERY tight. As if they didnt account for the anodizing finish after machining. I pretty much had to press it in by screwing in the diff adjustment nut until it bottomed out. Replacing the bearings down the line will not be fun and will involve lots of hammering.

same with the left side. The hub that slides over the shaft is VERY tight and you need to press it in by screwing a nut until it bottoms out.

This is pretty much what I remember so far when building.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 11:16 AM
  #231  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dublin CA
Posts: 264
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Other than missing parts, I'm happy with the quality with this car.
There's some I want to share with everyone else.

For shock, it started with leakage and then it stopped at some point. haven't run this car in full capacity yet so hard to say the leakage is gone. even if it is I can't say its good cause I still don't know what the problem is. So I should agree with disaster999 on the shock.

My front end went pretty straight forward. no complaint.

For rear pod, installing height adjuster for rear axle was a big pain for me. it worked out eventually but it felt odd considering the amount of force I had to apply to push it in.

For the rear wing, what's the height are you setting? haven't check my car but using stock setting and no problem with F60 rear wing.

I was surprised the diff is pretty gritty when its using 12 balls instead of 8.

other than that, great car.
aackjw is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 07:41 PM
  #232  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,975
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aackjw
Other than missing parts, I'm happy with the quality with this car.
There's some I want to share with everyone else.

For shock, it started with leakage and then it stopped at some point. haven't run this car in full capacity yet so hard to say the leakage is gone. even if it is I can't say its good cause I still don't know what the problem is. So I should agree with disaster999 on the shock.

My front end went pretty straight forward. no complaint.

For rear pod, installing height adjuster for rear axle was a big pain for me. it worked out eventually but it felt odd considering the amount of force I had to apply to push it in.

For the rear wing, what's the height are you setting? haven't check my car but using stock setting and no problem with F60 rear wing.

I was surprised the diff is pretty gritty when its using 12 balls instead of 8.

other than that, great car.
Ah yes, the height adjusters are a PITA to install. Shaving off some plastic of the adjusters made it easier to fit.

Did you put the 2 small vertical stabilizers in the center of the rear wing? Without them you wont have the problem of it hitting that support brace, but with it on, you have to shave of quite a lot of material on the wing to fit. I initially took it off just cuz I didnt want to deal with it, but eventually opted to put those stabilizers back on cuz I felt the wing felt kind of unstable.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 08:24 PM
  #233  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
Kevin CBR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: "Racing Budget" is an oxymoron
Posts: 3,984
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aackjw
I saw a tutorial about switching the original kingpin.
is that before the v2?
Is there any specific process I should follow to use v2 over the stock?
The knig pin mod people are using to mount the spring between the top of the steering knuckle and the upper carbon arm severely limits ride height adjustment. This is a similar limitation on the Tamiya TRF101.

The Tuning Haus v.2 king pin removed the c-clip groove that was just above the knuckle and created a "shear point". Now you just use a grub screw to tighten the knuckle to the king pin and no breaking issues. I have logged a lot of hours on my set including running the Tuning Haus SoCal Scale Series where we run (3) 15 minutes races each day and no bend or breakage. The Tuning Haus v.2 king pins are the way to go as you have ride height adjustment now and can also set in some front droop.

Panda
Kevin CBR is offline  
Old 02-25-2015, 09:09 PM
  #234  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,975
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Can anyone show me your setup on how to run R1 tires with the stock front suspension? I cant see how it would not bind the lower part of the king pin and the upper part of the suspension arm without modification and preloading the spring.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 02:00 AM
  #235  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 145
Default

Originally Posted by disaster999
Can anyone show me your setup on how to run R1 tires with the stock front suspension? I cant see how it would not bind the lower part of the king pin and the upper part of the suspension arm without modification and preloading the spring.
I'll send you a picture this weekend
nicoo2k4 is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 12:26 PM
  #236  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
AlexPate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Did ride improve their tires? I was under the impression that pits or tcs tires were the best route to go
AlexPate is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 05:50 PM
  #237  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,975
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I havent tried too many F1 rubber tires as of yet, only Solaris and Ride. Solaris isnt too crash friendly as the hub is VERY weak. The Ride, as Ive said before, doesnt fit the stock VBC front end without modification, but is has more grip than Solaris.
disaster999 is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 05:58 PM
  #238  
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
 
AlexPate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Pit shimizu 571 and 572
Or tamiya tcs tire 1031 1032
Tamiya rims are most durable. Exotek rims add corner speed but are more fragile. Tuning haus rims have soft plastic. Or did have soft plastic. Also the fronts won't fit the vbc as you have to trim the inner spokes
AlexPate is offline  
Old 02-26-2015, 10:47 PM
  #239  
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 3,975
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Forgot to mention I run on asphalt and not carpet
disaster999 is offline  
Old 02-28-2015, 11:50 AM
  #240  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 121
Default

What are the diffrent handling scenarios with the rear links? Inner, Outside or angled? tried the inner position on my car today(first time i drove it), and i liked it alot... what´s ure input on this?
Gillblade is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.