R1 Brushless Motors (Roar approved) 17.5,21.5 & 13.5
#260
This happens when the magnet is too strong. I see it regulary & only solution is to replace you magnet with a weaker one. It's common for this motor only, its due to both the strength of the stator & the rotor combined. The motor requires more electric power to start up therefore when your at a complete stop at "part throttle" it will cogg until the motor gets the power it needs. definitly not a sensor issue, with the flow the motor wont turn if there is any sensor issue.Your motor should operate normal as soon as its rolling.
#261
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
This happens when the magnet is too strong. I see it regulary & only solution is to replace you magnet with a weaker one. It's common for this motor only, its due to both the strength of the stator & the rotor combined. The motor requires more electric power to start up therefore when your at a complete stop at "part throttle" it will cogg until the motor gets the power it needs. definitly not a sensor issue, with the flow the motor wont turn if there is any sensor issue.Your motor should operate normal as soon as its rolling.
#262
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
This happens when the magnet is too strong. I see it regulary & only solution is to replace you magnet with a weaker one. It's common for this motor only, its due to both the strength of the stator & the rotor combined. The motor requires more electric power to start up therefore when your at a complete stop at "part throttle" it will cogg until the motor gets the power it needs. definitly not a sensor issue, with the flow the motor wont turn if there is any sensor issue.Your motor should operate normal as soon as its rolling.
#263
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
I had this happen, I replace 3 motors and they all did the same thing. I changed esc and it solve the problem. I have also had a bad sensor wire make the motor clog, but not on start up. Good luck and keep us posted if any of this solves it. I am very interested to know what it is, because that's a pain.
#264
I've seen this happen when the punch setting on the esc is too low.
If your motor cogs on start up, before going to a weaker rotor, try putting the punch settings on the esc to maximum. I've yet to see a motor cog where this didn't fix the problem.
If your motor cogs on start up, before going to a weaker rotor, try putting the punch settings on the esc to maximum. I've yet to see a motor cog where this didn't fix the problem.
#266
I noticed a little of this in my 17.5 with an LRP Flow. I changed out my sensor wire and had my initial drive at 8 and didn't notice a change. It tapered off as I lowered the timing to the low side of the 30* mark. I also believe I put the strongest rotor of the three I had in that motor.
#267
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
Bottom line line any other brand of ESC is better that LRP when it comes to R1 Wurks. I've tried ORCA VXX and SANWA Super Vortex and both work great.
RE: Cogging at dead start.
I had a similar encounter with another brand motor as well when motor is dead stop and won't start. Only when I spin the wheels while I'm on throttle does the motor kick to life. Checked motor on different ESCs and changed sensor wires to eliminate factors. I will also add that the motor was performing fine until all of a sudden the issue occurred (no changed to rotors etc). It may also be a hall sensor issue that needs replacing but I'll point the finger at the LRP ESC first!
Anyway, good luck.
GO R1 Wurks motors!
#268
Tech Fanatic
I've had negative experiences with the LRP Flow Works ESC before with cogging. Tried 4 brands on motors and swapped out sensor wires but still the same. Then asked around the local traps and most experienced guys reckons the LRP stuff only works best with other LRP components. eg LRP ESC + LRP Motor = Good. LRP ESC + Other brand motor = Not good. I duly sold off my LRP ESC!
Bottom line line any other brand of ESC is better that LRP when it comes to R1 Wurks. I've tried ORCA VXX and SANWA Super Vortex and both work great.
RE: Cogging at dead start.
I had a similar encounter with another brand motor as well when motor is dead stop and won't start. Only when I spin the wheels while I'm on throttle does the motor kick to life. Checked motor on different ESCs and changed sensor wires to eliminate factors. I will also add that the motor was performing fine until all of a sudden the issue occurred (no changed to rotors etc). It may also be a hall sensor issue that needs replacing but I'll point the finger at the LRP ESC first!
Anyway, good luck.
GO R1 Wurks motors!
Bottom line line any other brand of ESC is better that LRP when it comes to R1 Wurks. I've tried ORCA VXX and SANWA Super Vortex and both work great.
RE: Cogging at dead start.
I had a similar encounter with another brand motor as well when motor is dead stop and won't start. Only when I spin the wheels while I'm on throttle does the motor kick to life. Checked motor on different ESCs and changed sensor wires to eliminate factors. I will also add that the motor was performing fine until all of a sudden the issue occurred (no changed to rotors etc). It may also be a hall sensor issue that needs replacing but I'll point the finger at the LRP ESC first!
Anyway, good luck.
GO R1 Wurks motors!
One other thing to check is make sure you have solid solder jobs on all ESC and Motor tabs. I did fix one cogging issue when I found a cold solder joint on one of the motor tabs.
#269
Tech Fanatic
A chop-stick I found in the kitchen drawer, cut down until the diameter slightly snugs up inside the sensor assembly and beveled the tip to rest in the bearing. I think it was bamboo - don't tell my wife. My 13.5 was slightly off-center, which made a noticeable wobble when I free spun the sensor end on the rotor shaft. The 17.5 wasn't level to the bottom of the rotor, meaning one hall sensor was .5mm away from the rotor, while the other two were .7mm - .8mm. Not much of a difference, and likely wouldn't have had any effect on the performance of the motor, but it's just the way I am. I had planned to swap out a few rotors and didn't want to forget about the slight tilt and end up grinding a sensor on the rotor if I shimmed it too tight. Quick fix with the iron - all good.
These are really nice motors. The design of the stator allows air to flow through it quite well. I think that has a large impact on why this motor is able to handle higher temps/timing consistently where others would begin to go flat or smoke.
These are really nice motors. The design of the stator allows air to flow through it quite well. I think that has a large impact on why this motor is able to handle higher temps/timing consistently where others would begin to go flat or smoke.
#270
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
I bought a 17.5 a few weeks ago and recently just noticed that the motor doesn't spool up quickly to the max rpm until you hold full throttle for about 1 second. In another words, after pull the trigger to full throttle and hold, the motor will continue to increase its rpm and reaches max rpm after about a second. Is this normal? Anyone has the same experience? I also changed to another brand's motor and the spooling up was linear and directly proportional to the trigger travel. Thanks.