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Old 10-27-2014, 09:04 PM   #346
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I picked up an R1 21.5 to run in usgt on Sunday, put in in for some practice and left it in and it's never coming out... Great top end and pull out of the corners..

I tq'd and won the 12 car usgt main by just less then a second over 2nd who was also running an R1 motor...

I didn't play too much with gearing as it was great and didn't want to mess with it. I was running 3.67 with timing at 20d and 2nd was running one tooth less at a 3.74 both with ARC R10's.
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Old 10-28-2014, 11:10 PM   #347
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I was the one who finished less than a second behind him . But, to piggyback on what Scotty said. This motor has the best of both worlds. Pull out of the corners and very nice top end. Ran cool with the R1 fan, coming off at around 125 degrees Fahrenheit, with no fade.
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:22 AM   #348
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Originally Posted by tobyzhang View Post
R1 has a lot of built in timing. I think Torg (please help out here) tested 0 timing on the can to be about 30 degree true timing. Maybe the result you see is due to setting timing at true 50 degree timing, which is quite high. I had best result running r1 21.5 at 15 to 20 degree indicated and at 3.3 to 3.5 fdr at Tamiya America depending on conditions.
With my motolyser I saw 35* at can marking of 0 on my 21.5 R1. I hear others have similar readings on their R1s on their motolysers. Maxepower had even more... Motolyser didn't even want to do the current test on it using his endbell timing, hit the current overload protection. Then put it to 0 and got 43*

My personal opinion on this as someone that is still very much learning (it's not that long ago that I would by a lower turn motor instead of changing timing or gearing to go faster... yes... really). Is that having something say 0 on it and then finding out that 0 equals 35 is at best unhelpful and at worst misleading. I thought the number on the endbell was supposed to mean degrees of timing?

I have so far not found this to be the case on any other motor brands that I own. There are discrepancies.. such as Trinity kill shot at "true zero timing" read -7* and at 55 mark it read 40*(their endbell starting point AND scale was inaccurate) on their D4 changed that so it now starts at -10 instead of 0. Schuur does 25-45 markings for instance, LRP does the insert thing and Speedpassion does the totally horrible different colored timing insert where you have to pull the motor completely out to change anything. But they at least seem to try and the numbers seem to mean degrees of timing and none of the ones I own are off by 30+ degrees.

I hope this improves in future products. In the meantime I mark each can with its motolyser reading.
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Old 10-29-2014, 07:42 AM   #349
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Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
I picked up an R1 21.5 to run in usgt on Sunday, put in in for some practice and left it in and it's never coming out... Great top end and pull out of the corners..

I tq'd and won the 12 car usgt main by just less then a second over 2nd who was also running an R1 motor...

I didn't play too much with gearing as it was great and didn't want to mess with it. I was running 3.67 with timing at 20d and 2nd was running one tooth less at a 3.74 both with ARC R10's.
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Originally Posted by neltime64 View Post
I was the one who finished less than a second behind him . But, to piggyback on what Scotty said. This motor has the best of both worlds. Pull out of the corners and very nice top end. Ran cool with the R1 fan, coming off at around 125 degrees Fahrenheit, with no fade.
You guys kicked Arsh! Hopefully next time I come up I can have my car better dialed in. Yes these motors are the real deal.
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:32 PM   #350
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looking for reccomendations for timing and rollout in 13.5 wgt
if anyone has any advice that would be great,
the track is timezone II
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:06 PM   #351
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looking for reccomendations for timing and rollout in 13.5 wgt
if anyone has any advice that would be great,
the track is timezone II
At TQ we were running The R1 13.5 @ 0* 95mm roll
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:16 PM   #352
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At TQ we were running The R1 13.5 @ 0* 95mm roll
1/12 or wgt? 95mm sounds like 1-12?
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:39 PM   #353
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1/12 or wgt? 95mm sounds like 1-12?
From Rtype who did the WGT time
Either 81 @ 20* or 92-93 @ 0*
so close to 1/12
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Old 11-05-2014, 11:57 PM   #354
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So is it better to gear pretty tall or short on these motors? Mainly looking for ideas on a 17.5 on small-medium sized tracks (10-12s lap times).
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Old 11-12-2014, 02:52 AM   #355
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Another great outing with my R1 21.5 at the MRH TCS Race. Both Mini and F1 resulted in podium finishes. (check out the lap times and results on the MRH thread under racing forum.)

Just like in the previous races, I only run the motor set at just over the 30 degree mark on the endbell which results in motor temps for Mini of 145. I probably could go higher but I always feel excessive heat leads to motor fad after 6 minutes of hard racing. Yes, I use the R1 8.4v fan in Mini. F1 does not need a fan and the motor is always cool.

These motors are the best on the market and a must have! Steve, when are the 1s packs going to be available, I sent you an e-mail.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:54 AM   #356
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How much difference is there really going to be between a 17.5 standard and ultra premium motor? Also, are the R1 lipos any good?
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:27 PM   #357
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Are the new ultra premium versions brca legal to use at UK events? If not when will they be?
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:12 PM   #358
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Originally Posted by trilerian View Post
How much difference is there really going to be between a 17.5 standard and ultra premium motor? Also, are the R1 lipos any good?
Yes, the lipos are really good. Great numbers (low IR) and performance.
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:46 PM   #359
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Managed to pick up a motor checker (G-Force). Great little unit for the money. I decided to put the 21.5 with 30* bell marked timing on it and produced an average of 55* actual timing. A-54* B-52* C-59* timing at each phase.

Dyno results KV 3149, RPM 24563, V 7.8, Amps 10.1

Turned it down to 10* on the can and produced 47*

KV 2305, RPM 18444, V 8.0, Amps 4.7.

There was a noticeable difference between a 20* timing change.

I think the motors performance works best at bell marked timing of 0-20* on this motor.

Now, this is timing set for 2s 21.5 1/12th scale.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 11-16-2014 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 11-17-2014, 12:30 AM   #360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torg View Post
With my motolyser I saw 35* at can marking of 0 on my 21.5 R1. I hear others have similar readings on their R1s on their motolysers. Maxepower had even more... Motolyser didn't even want to do the current test on it using his endbell timing, hit the current overload protection. Then put it to 0 and got 43*

My personal opinion on this as someone that is still very much learning (it's not that long ago that I would by a lower turn motor instead of changing timing or gearing to go faster... yes... really). Is that having something say 0 on it and then finding out that 0 equals 35 is at best unhelpful and at worst misleading. I thought the number on the endbell was supposed to mean degrees of timing?

I have so far not found this to be the case on any other motor brands that I own. There are discrepancies.. such as Trinity kill shot at "true zero timing" read -7* and at 55 mark it read 40*(their endbell starting point AND scale was inaccurate) on their D4 changed that so it now starts at -10 instead of 0. Schuur does 25-45 markings for instance, LRP does the insert thing and Speedpassion does the totally horrible different colored timing insert where you have to pull the motor completely out to change anything. But they at least seem to try and the numbers seem to mean degrees of timing and none of the ones I own are off by 30+ degrees.

I hope this improves in future products. In the meantime I mark each can with its motolyser reading.
After having a closer look inside the R1 and a killshot (and from talking to Mr R1 in person this weekend - I finally get what you were trying to explain ). "Timing" is not "built in" at all. In fact it is retarded in the classical "timing" sense and there is something non-electronic that is occurring, throwing the motolyser algorithm off completely. How, I don't know, writing the motolyser guys now to see their take on it.

Posted my findings here.

As I said... still learning... learned even more over the weekend.
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