R1wurks

iTrader: (1)

ULTRA PREMUIM is basically an updated version of the previous motor.(updated version approved by Roar & has passed tech at Roar events)

same parts:
rotor
endbells
bearing
sensor

updated:
-Stator-
New stator has two front rings (makes your motor power more consistent throughout the run)
End wind (wire) is bonded in place to reduce vibration (improves initial acceleration & top end)

(no change in dimension,just improved performance) We also applied improved manufacturing techniques (proprietary) on both the same stator material & same wires (made in USA)

Compared to the previous motor based on beta user feedback, the motor improved acceleration,top end & power consistency throughout a race even at extreme temperatures (extreme temperatures not recommended,this will shorten the life of the stator).

John Wallace2

Never had too much trouble with the top end on the old motor, but it sounds like you addressed the two problem areas I found in my testing of the R1 21.5 motor.

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

Forgot to mention on the 21.5 my 8.4v motor fan unsoldered from esc. We temped motor with two temp gauges. It read 250* on both. That was after a 8min main. The motor was still running strong at the end of the race. Lol! Don't think any other motors could have taken the abuse as well.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

A few of us have been racing 1/12 with the new 17.5 R1
It's very competitive at 0* 105 roll

R1wurks

iTrader: (1)

here's a video of the motor in action, 1&2 running R1 ULTRA P.

http://youtu.be/GtDc2zSZyRA?list=UUO...vH2xGlHKW-NGDQ

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

I just received my new R1 21.5 and planning on USGT power.

I put it on a motor checker(8.4V input on regulated PS) and the amp draw is about twice my other 21.5 motors. It shows 3.5 amp draw at no load and with 20 degrees on the can label. Motor rotor seems free with a little end play and bearings appear to be normal. RPM is ~13,100. It also seems to be getting quit warm.

Another motor with similar RPM/Kv is drawing only 1.9 amps.

I usually gear around 3.5fdr and have noted that a 4.0 might be better with this motor. Just not sure if 4.0 will be short enough.

I always monitor temps and run a R1 fan on the motor.

Track a medium size indoor Ozite version(10-11 sec. laps in USGT)

Does all this seem normal?

R1wurks

iTrader: (1)

i'm not familiar with your test but you should be fine, any questions you can always email us.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to test this motor Saturday at the carpet track in an all day test session. I have been logging laps with several motors and noting lap times. I will report back soon on impressions, gearing and temps. I am getting ready for the winter indoor season. We have some top notch drivers and it's usually a motor battle.

My concern is that high no load amp draw for a 21.5 and no load temp. I haven't seen that before except in a low turn or damaged motor.

tobyzhang

iTrader: (15)

R1 has a lot of built in timing. I think Torg (please help out here) tested 0 timing on the can to be about 30 degree true timing. Maybe the result you see is due to setting timing at true 50 degree timing, which is quite high. I had best result running r1 21.5 at 15 to 20 degree indicated and at 3.3 to 3.5 fdr at Tamiya America depending on conditions.

knightrider

iTrader: (3)

Still no testing/ development of any of these for oval?? Looking to try something different from the 3.5's that are still legal in tour. Any info would be appreciated!!

John Wallace2

Your results are exactly what I found when I dyno'd the R1 21.5 motor (note this is the old version not the new super duper version). High RPM but High amp draw (highest of any 21.5 motor I've tested). The stator does have timing build in. 30 degrees is claimed but both TORG and my Motorlysers say it's more like 36, so be careful with the endbell timing and add at least 30 to what the endbell says and you have the total timing. Motor amp draw looks much better at 15 to 25 degrees of end bell timing but the RPM drops too. Many people swear by these motors; other swear at them (especially for long races -we run 12 minute mains for the USGT class). Like to see your test results. Either post or PM them to me.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Glad to hear it's not just my motor with the high draw.

The best set up for me was 4.06 FDR and the can timing reading ~38 degrees. Temps maxed out at 150-160F with the 8.4V R1 fan. The car was pretty fast on this carpet track layout with lotsa high speed flowing corners. It didn't seem to have much punch but kept winding out on the straights.

I put the motor back on the tester and now it's drawing a whopping 7amps no load with the increase in can timing.

I don't think this motor would like tight technical courses with hairpins. We only run 6 minute races in USGT so time would not be a problem.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

You guys should really try closer to zero endbell timing for more punch, and cool temps

Some of the 17.5 TC guys are doing this at TQ, and they rip

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

The tracks I race on the straight is twice as long as TQ maybe more. I have tried the lower timing and 3.0ish fdr. Unfortunately that didn't work so well up here. My perfect range has been 35* timing and 3.5 to 3.8 fdr. Size matters!

Indyonroad

iTrader: (2)

Just wanted to say Thanks to Steve for the GREAT customer service on a minor issue I had with my Wurks R1 motor. He responded to my email within hours and the problem was taken care of.

The performance of his motors and his exceptional customer service is top notch.

David