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Old 08-06-2014, 11:58 AM   #256
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Default 21.5 USGT

Hi
I have the 21.5 with the LRP Flow esc
for some reason it cog at the dead start ,as long you keep the car rolling it is okay. I'm at 25.deg bell end timing...what speedo works better for this motor?
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:12 PM   #257
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
Hi
I have the 21.5 with the LRP Flow esc
for some reason it cog at the dead start ,as long you keep the car rolling it is okay. I'm at 25.deg bell end timing...what speedo works better for this motor?
Make sure your sensor wire is plugged in and ok. Sounds like a sensor issue.
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:23 PM   #258
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Make sure your sensor wire is plugged in and ok. Sounds like a sensor issue.
yes I did changed the sensor wire as well..I started out 38 deg. end bell timing ..the more I reduced the timing the better it get...

what esc is every ones is using with this R1 motor?
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Last edited by OVA; 08-06-2014 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:26 PM   #259
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No I did changed the sensor wire as well..
What capacitor are you using? Also what settings do you have your punch set at on the lrp?
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:31 PM   #260
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This happens when the magnet is too strong. I see it regulary & only solution is to replace you magnet with a weaker one. It's common for this motor only, its due to both the strength of the stator & the rotor combined. The motor requires more electric power to start up therefore when your at a complete stop at "part throttle" it will cogg until the motor gets the power it needs. definitly not a sensor issue, with the flow the motor wont turn if there is any sensor issue.Your motor should operate normal as soon as its rolling.

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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
Hi
I have the 21.5 with the LRP Flow esc
for some reason it cog at the dead start ,as long you keep the car rolling it is okay. I'm at 25.deg bell end timing...what speedo works better for this motor?
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:38 PM   #261
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This happens when the magnet is too strong. I see it regulary & only solution is to replace you magnet with a weaker one. It's common for this motor only, its due to both the strength of the stator & the rotor combined. The motor requires more electric power to start up therefore when your at a complete stop at "part throttle" it will cogg until the motor gets the power it needs. definitly not a sensor issue, with the flow the motor wont turn if there is any sensor issue.Your motor should operate normal as soon as its rolling.
that make more sense..Thanks
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:38 PM   #262
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Originally Posted by R1wurks View Post
This happens when the magnet is too strong. I see it regulary & only solution is to replace you magnet with a weaker one. It's common for this motor only, its due to both the strength of the stator & the rotor combined. The motor requires more electric power to start up therefore when your at a complete stop at "part throttle" it will cogg until the motor gets the power it needs. definitly not a sensor issue, with the flow the motor wont turn if there is any sensor issue.Your motor should operate normal as soon as its rolling.
What if you have really good capacitors? Aren't they suppose to store electric power? Would they store enough energy to start the motor?
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:42 PM   #263
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that make more sense..Thanks
I had this happen, I replace 3 motors and they all did the same thing. I changed esc and it solve the problem. I have also had a bad sensor wire make the motor clog, but not on start up. Good luck and keep us posted if any of this solves it. I am very interested to know what it is, because that's a pain.
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:59 PM   #264
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I've seen this happen when the punch setting on the esc is too low.
If your motor cogs on start up, before going to a weaker rotor, try putting the punch settings on the esc to maximum. I've yet to see a motor cog where this didn't fix the problem.
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Old 08-06-2014, 04:24 PM   #265
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I've seen this happen when the punch setting on the esc is too low.
If your motor cogs on start up, before going to a weaker rotor, try putting the punch settings on the esc to maximum. I've yet to see a motor cog where this didn't fix the problem.
what R1 said, make sense to me, Sure by increasing the throttle punch will help increase more voltage or power sooner as you throttle
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:15 PM   #266
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I noticed a little of this in my 17.5 with an LRP Flow. I changed out my sensor wire and had my initial drive at 8 and didn't notice a change. It tapered off as I lowered the timing to the low side of the 30* mark. I also believe I put the strongest rotor of the three I had in that motor.
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:47 AM   #267
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
Hi
I have the 21.5 with the LRP Flow esc
for some reason it cog at the dead start ,as long you keep the car rolling it is okay. I'm at 25.deg bell end timing...what speedo works better for this motor?
I've had negative experiences with the LRP Flow Works ESC before with cogging. Tried 4 brands on motors and swapped out sensor wires but still the same. Then asked around the local traps and most experienced guys reckons the LRP stuff only works best with other LRP components. eg LRP ESC + LRP Motor = Good. LRP ESC + Other brand motor = Not good. I duly sold off my LRP ESC!

Bottom line line any other brand of ESC is better that LRP when it comes to R1 Wurks. I've tried ORCA VXX and SANWA Super Vortex and both work great.

RE: Cogging at dead start.
I had a similar encounter with another brand motor as well when motor is dead stop and won't start. Only when I spin the wheels while I'm on throttle does the motor kick to life. Checked motor on different ESCs and changed sensor wires to eliminate factors. I will also add that the motor was performing fine until all of a sudden the issue occurred (no changed to rotors etc). It may also be a hall sensor issue that needs replacing but I'll point the finger at the LRP ESC first!

Anyway, good luck.

GO R1 Wurks motors!
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:55 PM   #268
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I've had negative experiences with the LRP Flow Works ESC before with cogging. Tried 4 brands on motors and swapped out sensor wires but still the same. Then asked around the local traps and most experienced guys reckons the LRP stuff only works best with other LRP components. eg LRP ESC + LRP Motor = Good. LRP ESC + Other brand motor = Not good. I duly sold off my LRP ESC!

Bottom line line any other brand of ESC is better that LRP when it comes to R1 Wurks. I've tried ORCA VXX and SANWA Super Vortex and both work great.

RE: Cogging at dead start.
I had a similar encounter with another brand motor as well when motor is dead stop and won't start. Only when I spin the wheels while I'm on throttle does the motor kick to life. Checked motor on different ESCs and changed sensor wires to eliminate factors. I will also add that the motor was performing fine until all of a sudden the issue occurred (no changed to rotors etc). It may also be a hall sensor issue that needs replacing but I'll point the finger at the LRP ESC first!

Anyway, good luck.

GO R1 Wurks motors!
I've read a lot of the posts here about the cogging motor and I can tell you that setting the ESC to MAX punch didn't fix the Cogging problem I had, changing the ESC didn't fix the problem, loosening the timing ring an slowly rotating the motor and retighten the timing ring helped some but then went away, returning the motor to the manufacture and having it returned no defect didn't fix the problem either, plus a dozen other things (Sensor wires etc.. What fixed the problem is I replaced the sensor board that the manufacture said was OK with a new one and my much bitched about motor (MBA) became my MBA (my Much Bragged About) motor.

One other thing to check is make sure you have solid solder jobs on all ESC and Motor tabs. I did fix one cogging issue when I found a cold solder joint on one of the motor tabs.
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:18 AM   #269
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A chop-stick I found in the kitchen drawer, cut down until the diameter slightly snugs up inside the sensor assembly and beveled the tip to rest in the bearing. I think it was bamboo - don't tell my wife. My 13.5 was slightly off-center, which made a noticeable wobble when I free spun the sensor end on the rotor shaft. The 17.5 wasn't level to the bottom of the rotor, meaning one hall sensor was .5mm away from the rotor, while the other two were .7mm - .8mm. Not much of a difference, and likely wouldn't have had any effect on the performance of the motor, but it's just the way I am. I had planned to swap out a few rotors and didn't want to forget about the slight tilt and end up grinding a sensor on the rotor if I shimmed it too tight. Quick fix with the iron - all good.

These are really nice motors. The design of the stator allows air to flow through it quite well. I think that has a large impact on why this motor is able to handle higher temps/timing consistently where others would begin to go flat or smoke.
Was there any change in the AMP draw after you aligned the sensor. My R1 21.5 has the highest amp draw of any 21.5 motor I've tested on my dyno and others have PM'd me with info suggesting that my motor is not atypical.
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:33 PM   #270
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I bought a 17.5 a few weeks ago and recently just noticed that the motor doesn't spool up quickly to the max rpm until you hold full throttle for about 1 second. In another words, after pull the trigger to full throttle and hold, the motor will continue to increase its rpm and reaches max rpm after about a second. Is this normal? Anyone has the same experience? I also changed to another brand's motor and the spooling up was linear and directly proportional to the trigger travel. Thanks.
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