Major Difference between Xray T3 11 & T4 14
#1
Major Difference between Xray T3 11 & T4 14
Hi guys!
Been using Tamiya TA05v2 for club level touring for a long time, thinking of moving over to Xray and thinking of getting a used T3 11 or maybe spend to get the new T4, just wondering between these pro kits is the difference significant enough? Is the 4 year development gap huge between this 2 kits?
Been using Tamiya TA05v2 for club level touring for a long time, thinking of moving over to Xray and thinking of getting a used T3 11 or maybe spend to get the new T4, just wondering between these pro kits is the difference significant enough? Is the 4 year development gap huge between this 2 kits?
#3
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Most of the major parts for the '14 car are the same as the parts for the '11 car. The front arms are different, but it's very easy to get the '11 arms. They're still in stock everywhere and probably will be for a long time.
The '14 is a much different car, though. It depends entirely on how well you drive. If you drive well enough that you don't hit a board or miss a line for 5-6 minutes, then maybe you should go with the T4'14. If you're still learning at the club level and make a bunch of mistakes every run (like me) then maybe stick with a used '11.
Both cars are excellent, though. We had a local guy here that preferred to run his T3'11 over his T4. Side by side, with exact same electronics, he was consistently about .2 faster per lap with his T3'11. Just goes to show you that sometimes a really good setup is better than just a random car.
The '14 is a much different car, though. It depends entirely on how well you drive. If you drive well enough that you don't hit a board or miss a line for 5-6 minutes, then maybe you should go with the T4'14. If you're still learning at the club level and make a bunch of mistakes every run (like me) then maybe stick with a used '11.
Both cars are excellent, though. We had a local guy here that preferred to run his T3'11 over his T4. Side by side, with exact same electronics, he was consistently about .2 faster per lap with his T3'11. Just goes to show you that sometimes a really good setup is better than just a random car.
#8
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Hi, I am a club racer, and middle of the pack most races. I run a t3'11 and a T3 updated to 12 upper suspension mounts. But both are the same basic car.
The big change between the 11-13/14 is how the suspension is mounted to the chassis, which in my opinion is a major pain in the ass on the 11. It will get loose need tighening quite often. All the current knock off cars SPEC Sakura CSO etc use the 13/14 style.
I bought both of my 11s as used deal cars.. I enjoy them a tonn.. I got about $800 worth of stuff (car+spares) with my one $400 deal - very worth it. If the deal is good, the 11 is a great car.
All of that being said my son runs a T2 007 that I can drive just as well as my 11. Parts availability is still OK for the 007 and still great for the T3 line.
With all the adjustments on "current" chassis today.. it more comes down to what colour components you like ... they all can be setup to win for anyone under the top 5% of drivers.
The big change between the 11-13/14 is how the suspension is mounted to the chassis, which in my opinion is a major pain in the ass on the 11. It will get loose need tighening quite often. All the current knock off cars SPEC Sakura CSO etc use the 13/14 style.
I bought both of my 11s as used deal cars.. I enjoy them a tonn.. I got about $800 worth of stuff (car+spares) with my one $400 deal - very worth it. If the deal is good, the 11 is a great car.
All of that being said my son runs a T2 007 that I can drive just as well as my 11. Parts availability is still OK for the 007 and still great for the T3 line.
With all the adjustments on "current" chassis today.. it more comes down to what colour components you like ... they all can be setup to win for anyone under the top 5% of drivers.
#10
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)
I've had a t3 11, t3 12, t4 13, and t4 14. The t4 14 is the best of all of them. I also like the fact that it is the only car which does not use the hinge pin blocks that mounted to the side of the bulkhead with only 1 bolt. On the 3 that used them, mine would pivot from "minor incidences" with the wall and then I would have slop in the arms. I was always readjusting and tightening the screws. I switched to the 14 and don't have that problem anymore.
If you can afford it, I would get the 14.
If you can afford it, I would get the 14.
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
T4 also has aluminum shocks that build perfect with no fuss.
Correction to Bikerbob's post: only the 2014 has the new suspension mounts. The T4 2013 has the same mounts as earlier cars.
The new mounts will still sometimes shift a little with board taps, but not as much as the old ones. They might gain .1 - .2mm of slop, as opposed to like .5mm. And it takes a bigger hit to do it.
-Mike
Correction to Bikerbob's post: only the 2014 has the new suspension mounts. The T4 2013 has the same mounts as earlier cars.
The new mounts will still sometimes shift a little with board taps, but not as much as the old ones. They might gain .1 - .2mm of slop, as opposed to like .5mm. And it takes a bigger hit to do it.
-Mike
#12
Hi, I am a club racer, and middle of the pack most races. I run a t3'11 and a T3 updated to 12 upper suspension mounts. But both are the same basic car.
The big change between the 11-13/14 is how the suspension is mounted to the chassis, which in my opinion is a major pain in the ass on the 11. It will get loose need tighening quite often. All the current knock off cars SPEC Sakura CSO etc use the 13/14 style.
I bought both of my 11s as used deal cars.. I enjoy them a tonn.. I got about $800 worth of stuff (car+spares) with my one $400 deal - very worth it. If the deal is good, the 11 is a great car.
All of that being said my son runs a T2 007 that I can drive just as well as my 11. Parts availability is still OK for the 007 and still great for the T3 line.
With all the adjustments on "current" chassis today.. it more comes down to what colour components you like ... they all can be setup to win for anyone under the top 5% of drivers.
The big change between the 11-13/14 is how the suspension is mounted to the chassis, which in my opinion is a major pain in the ass on the 11. It will get loose need tighening quite often. All the current knock off cars SPEC Sakura CSO etc use the 13/14 style.
I bought both of my 11s as used deal cars.. I enjoy them a tonn.. I got about $800 worth of stuff (car+spares) with my one $400 deal - very worth it. If the deal is good, the 11 is a great car.
All of that being said my son runs a T2 007 that I can drive just as well as my 11. Parts availability is still OK for the 007 and still great for the T3 line.
With all the adjustments on "current" chassis today.. it more comes down to what colour components you like ... they all can be setup to win for anyone under the top 5% of drivers.
#13
How about the old T3? How does it match up to the T4'14 and T4'13?
#14
Tech Elite
iTrader: (71)
Quite well. I run stock sedan with a T3 '12 and can hold my own. With our RD behind the wheel the car can be another couple tenths faster but against the other t4 '14s and what not no one is running away from me.
I still rock a T3 '10 (the original) in VTA and I have no bad things to say about it, car is a podium finisher week in and out.
One last item about the T4's (both '13 and '14) people were going though main chassis in the beginning after hitting the boards too hard and causing the front of the chassis to split.
I still rock a T3 '10 (the original) in VTA and I have no bad things to say about it, car is a podium finisher week in and out.
One last item about the T4's (both '13 and '14) people were going though main chassis in the beginning after hitting the boards too hard and causing the front of the chassis to split.
#15
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I had a couple of T3'12. I never owned the '11. In '12 they added the upper dif clamps that connect the camber links, instead of the shock tower mounts. I believe that was also the year they added the east/west servo mount. Before it was a bit weird with the servo north/south with the horn in the middle of the top deck. I loved my T3'12 spec cars. They were insanely durable cars. I beat the hell out of those cars and barely broke anything. They were awesome for helping me get quicker without worrying about a few hits.
T4 is capable of carrying more corner speed when set up right. I've heard the '14 is even better, but I just have a couple of the T4 '13 spec cars. I love them. If I had raced more this winter I would have picked up a T4'14 or two, no doubt.
The T3 is a tank right out of the box(not heavy, just strong). If you go for a T4, the only thing I would say is to get an upper bumper brace, right away. Without one, you are likely to break or delaminate your chassis with the first hard frontal impact. With one, it's a very durable car. The only other little quirk I can think of is that certain pinions just don't fit very well.
T4 is capable of carrying more corner speed when set up right. I've heard the '14 is even better, but I just have a couple of the T4 '13 spec cars. I love them. If I had raced more this winter I would have picked up a T4'14 or two, no doubt.
The T3 is a tank right out of the box(not heavy, just strong). If you go for a T4, the only thing I would say is to get an upper bumper brace, right away. Without one, you are likely to break or delaminate your chassis with the first hard frontal impact. With one, it's a very durable car. The only other little quirk I can think of is that certain pinions just don't fit very well.