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Old 10-28-2014, 06:06 PM   #511
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Martin,

How much stock do you put in a really high end servo for on road touring car? I mean the difference between a $169 KO 30205 vs say like a Savox 1251 $69? Just curious.
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Old 10-28-2014, 06:36 PM   #512
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Whilst I haven't tried it I had similar thoughts.

A few local racers have been using this method. Perhaps the diff not being 100% filled using thicker oil would be less likely to leak and may remain more consistent than a full diff with thinner oil that leaks.
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Old 10-28-2014, 10:25 PM   #513
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Default Dueling Theories - I love it

Might be fairly easy to test Josh's theory by putting small O rings on the shock shafts and pushing them flush against the bottom of the shock. After a few laps stop the car and measure how far the o ring had been moved down the shaft as the shock has been compressed during the run. If there is less longitudinal weight transfer with a heavier sway bar, you should see less front shock compression than with a lighter sway bar. Assumes a relatively smooth track
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Old 11-01-2014, 09:10 PM   #514
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Martin,

How much stock do you put in a really high end servo for on road touring car? I mean the difference between a $169 KO 30205 vs say like a Savox 1251 $69? Just curious.
The key thing is having a very fast servo so that your actions with the radio are translated to steering movement within the car. So if you have to pay more for a fast servo then it is worth it.
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:09 AM   #515
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Default Servo

Savox is a good brand, but the 1251 is a little weak though, you'll find yourself replacing the gears frequently depending how much you hit stuff lol, I'm using the 1258TG for 2 years now, if you have the space on the car i think it's the best way to go in the Savox brand.
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:49 AM   #516
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Ive never had an issue with my 1251 thats been in use for over 2 years from starting in a 2wd buggy with no servo saver to several TC chassis. Once I put it in a TC I always had a servo saver of some sort. Whether it was the built in type of the older designed cars or such with new designs you have to use an external. I use the Xray one, as do many others with great success. I never have an issue of not having a fast enough steering response or soft reaction times.
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Old 11-02-2014, 11:28 AM   #517
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Savox makes nice servos, but to me they feel... imprecise. Compared to a BLS551 or a SRG-BLS, the Savox feels like 48p gears compared to 64p. The more expensive servos (the Futaba and Sanwa I mentioned being my favorite) are like butter. Pair one of those with an Airtronics/Sanwa radio and you feel super connected to the car. From the original post, I'd go for the KO over the Savox for sure.
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Old 11-02-2014, 08:47 PM   #518
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Mr. Crisp, I have a situation I need help with. I am too the point that I despise large races. This weekend was the Halloween Classic. Friday practice, my car was really good. Saturday morning, and round 1 still good. By round 2, it seemed like I had Velcro on my tires, the car was stuck into the carpet. So bad, motor temps went up 50 degrees. Not sure if I did the correct things, but this is what I tried (serpent eryx 3.0 w/aluminum chassis); Removed most camber gain in front, reduced rear a lot also, 1deg camber all around, 3k rear diff oil, 2mm droop over ride height, yoke blue springs front and rear, chassis stiffener with front and rear stiffener in top deck, 2mm top deck(not split), 2.5 mill front gear diff, and 1.4 front/rear sway bar.

I really need help with this. On club race days, my cars are good, but when grip comes up at this big events I am at a loss. There must be changes people make to adjust for grip raising between rounds, or a set up that starts very loose and allows the track to come to the car.

What could I have done, or how should I have started off this event with my set up?

Thanks for your time.
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:33 AM   #519
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Default 2s2p vs 2s1p

Hi martin i have a question regarding 2s2p and 2s1p lipo batteries
Whats their diffrence and if they have the same specs(mAh and C) which is better? Ty
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:05 AM   #520
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Hi martin i have a question regarding 2s2p and 2s1p lipo batteries
Whats their diffrence and if they have the same specs(mAh and C) which is better? Ty
Someone correct me if im wrong but 2s2p batteries are usually heavier but cheaper than 2s1p batteries, but you will get longer running time out of the 2s2p batteries, even if they have the same mAh rating. i've heard of people using 2s1p shorty batteries to play around with weight distribution, but it's only distribution as all cars are required to meet a minimum weight standard so they will usually need to ballast up the weight savings anyway.

The only advantage will be if your car is overweight already, then 2s1p batteries can be used to reduce that weight - provided your car will have enough runtime on the battery
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Old 11-03-2014, 04:22 PM   #521
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Originally Posted by Adam B View Post
Mr. Crisp, I have a situation I need help with. I am too the point that I despise large races. This weekend was the Halloween Classic. Friday practice, my car was really good. Saturday morning, and round 1 still good. By round 2, it seemed like I had Velcro on my tires, the car was stuck into the carpet. So bad, motor temps went up 50 degrees. Not sure if I did the correct things, but this is what I tried (serpent eryx 3.0 w/aluminum chassis); Removed most camber gain in front, reduced rear a lot also, 1deg camber all around, 3k rear diff oil, 2mm droop over ride height, yoke blue springs front and rear, chassis stiffener with front and rear stiffener in top deck, 2mm top deck(not split), 2.5 mill front gear diff, and 1.4 front/rear sway bar.

I really need help with this. On club race days, my cars are good, but when grip comes up at this big events I am at a loss. There must be changes people make to adjust for grip raising between rounds, or a set up that starts very loose and allows the track to come to the car.

What could I have done, or how should I have started off this event with my set up?

Thanks for your time.
Have you ever just reduced the amount of tire sauce time applied to the tires?
Sometimes this can help and it seems like it can be overlooked. If you routinely apply sauce for 10 minutes under high grip club racing conditions, try reducing the time at a bigger race in half or more. Maybe you already do this, I'm also sure Martin could help you out further.

Steve
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Old 11-04-2014, 06:10 AM   #522
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Have you ever just reduced the amount of tire sauce time applied to the tires?
Sometimes this can help and it seems like it can be overlooked. If you routinely apply sauce for 10 minutes under high grip club racing conditions, try reducing the time at a bigger race in half or more. Maybe you already do this, I'm also sure Martin could help you out further.

Steve
Some additional simple things to do are: wash the tires after each race (the joy of simple green), use less traction compound as the grip comes up (instead of coating the entire tire surface, just put it on the left 1/2 of the tire for example), and super glue the sidewall of the tires (sometimes even go up on the tread surface of the tire). Most of these things I learned at Cleveland - the hard way.
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:36 PM   #523
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I did change the way I sauced the tires. Traction rolling was never a problem because I had already glued the sidewalls. It was just like I had Velcro on my tires.

After comparing set ups with another driver that did very well I found i basically went the wrong way with springs, dampening, and shock position. But with these cars there are many ways to get the same outcome, just how you go about doing it.

But I am still a little hung up on chassis flex. I read multiple things that said it takes traction away to a point. BUT, isn't flex also another way of dampening in a way? My thinking is that if the chassis and deck are stiff, it increases traction rolling chances as the ability to allow the chassis to give some and absorb some of that twist is gone. Am I off here?
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Old 11-04-2014, 06:20 PM   #524
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Originally Posted by Adam B View Post
I did change the way I sauced the tires. Traction rolling was never a problem because I had already glued the sidewalls. It was just like I had Velcro on my tires.

After comparing set ups with another driver that did very well I found i basically went the wrong way with springs, dampening, and shock position. But with these cars there are many ways to get the same outcome, just how you go about doing it.

But I am still a little hung up on chassis flex. I read multiple things that said it takes traction away to a point. BUT, isn't flex also another way of dampening in a way? My thinking is that if the chassis and deck are stiff, it increases traction rolling chances as the ability to allow the chassis to give some and absorb some of that twist is gone. Am I off here?
soft chassis and high grip just don't work. low spring rate is key when grip comes up.

soft chassis + hard springs is great in low bite.

my car almost drives like it is broken until grip comes up. dialing yourself in under low grip basically never works (unless it is a low grip event -- like 1/12th worlds). don't be afraid to try things --- and ask (more) people for help...
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:56 PM   #525
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Default long link Vs short

Very confused...do long camber links give more traction or just makes the car more predictable and stable? Please explain long Vs short , front and rear, and do to always make front and rear both long or short?

looking to gain more corner traction on power so the back end doesn't come around at the end of the straight turn.
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