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Old 04-07-2014, 10:14 AM   #286
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Originally Posted by buckeye dan View Post
Hello I was just wondering what is best way to tune a 25.5 motor for vta?
It would be done the same way described above for a 17.5...the only difference would be to find out what other drivers are using for an FDR to have a starting point on which to tune.
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:19 AM   #287
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Wile the topic is fresh let me ask what u would do in terms of 17.5 gearing
we run our D3.5s @ 3.6-3.7 w/max timing
so I figure u can gear a true roar 17.5 about .2 lower (my thinking ; a d3.5 17.5 runs more like a 15.5t if there was such a critter)
so I started at 3.5 and watched my times compared to a equal driver to compare times.
felt I kinda settled with 3.65 and max timing (motor dont allow for much adjustment .
(Guess it had about 20°of movement from N, Tho not sure what it has built into it ...
motor comes off 158 with full timing and 3.65
my question
Do u think if I removed timing and added more teeth to keep temps same could be better I only ask it cause most motors I feel (except ss novaks ) have more movement from the sensor
since I dont have EA at the track to copy .
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:25 AM   #288
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hi martin an update from sunday,you have a pm
with the rain and then it drying out i struggled a bit and only made it out for 2 runs(no wet car)ended up 32nd from 68, i was dissapointed as i could have done better had i caught the weather at the right time,i ened up 10th in the c final and then won it,anyhow here are a few set ups from sunday for comparison the 1st is the set up i ended up with for the final,it was too safe with off power entry push
2nd shows the changes made to hopefully remove the push and hopefully gain more corner speed
3rd is the winner from mods set up
if you could take a look and see what you think,i added the mod set up but not sure if a mod set up will work in boosted

1st
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014

2nd
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014

mod winner
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014
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Last edited by chasingthepack; 04-08-2014 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:41 AM   #289
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What are you using 64pitch or 48? why?
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:17 PM   #290
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
hi martin an update from sunday,you have a pm
with the rain and then it drying out i struggled a bit and only made it out for 2 runs(no wet car)ended up 32nd from 68, i was dissapointed as i could have done better had i caught the weather at the right time,i ened up 10th in the c final and then won it,anyhow here are a few set ups from sunday for comparison the 1st is the set up i ended up with for the final,it was too safe with off power entry push
2nd shows the changes made to hopefully remove the push and hopefully gain more corner speed
3rd is the winner from mods set up
if you could take a look and see what you think,i added the mod set up but not sure if a mod set up will work in boosted

1st
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014

2nd
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014

mod winner
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2014

After looking at your setup I would suggest trying each of the following

Try this first.
a) Inboard upper link spacers in the rear : go from 2mm to 3mm
b) Make the rear upper link longer - full length possible

Then try
c) lowering the front ride height from 5.6mm to 5mm and leave the rear at 5.6mm this will give the car "rake" which creates more downforce and also generates more steering.

Then Try
d) going to 2.4 springs front and rear down from 2.7, to allow for more weight longitudinal weight transfer. It should give more off power steering, but perhaps less on powersteering, but diff oil suggestions below will help compensate for the on power push.

Then try
e) laying down the rear shocks one hole. This allows more lateral roll in the rear which tends to free up a car on entry and middle.


Then experiment with some diff oil changes. These may bring the off power push back, but try it anyway, as they will give you some good on power steering, and maybe we can deal with the push in other ways.
c) Change your rear diff oil from 350 cst to 2k cst
d) change your front diff oil from 450 cst to 500k. I think you should also try 1m in the front as well. It may create too much of a push off power, but it will give you more on power steering.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:26 PM   #291
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What are you using 64pitch or 48? why?
I always use 48 pitch, as it dramatically reduces the chances of stripping gears.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:28 PM   #292
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Wile the topic is fresh let me ask what u would do in terms of 17.5 gearing
we run our D3.5s @ 3.6-3.7 w/max timing
so I figure u can gear a true roar 17.5 about .2 lower (my thinking ; a d3.5 17.5 runs more like a 15.5t if there was such a critter)
so I started at 3.5 and watched my times compared to a equal driver to compare times.
felt I kinda settled with 3.65 and max timing (motor dont allow for much adjustment .
(Guess it had about 20°of movement from N, Tho not sure what it has built into it ...
motor comes off 158 with full timing and 3.65
my question
Do u think if I removed timing and added more teeth to keep temps same could be better I only ask it cause most motors I feel (except ss novaks ) have more movement from the sensor
since I dont have EA at the track to copy .
Each motor brand / model reacts differently so I would talk to someone like EA or Dieter who has experience with these Trinity Motors. Having said that, it is my experience that extreme timing has a bigger impact on heat than gearing up one tooth. So if you are maxed on the timing go down a a few degrees and up one tooth and see if the temps and lap times are better.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:34 PM   #293
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Hi there guys, I I am wanting to add some anti squat to my 6.1wc to gain some more traction under acceleration out of the corner. Can anyone explain how to add it to the Tc6.1 wc? Thank you guys very much for all the info and help!
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:01 PM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
Each motor brand / model reacts differently so I would talk to someone like EA or Dieter who has experience with these Trinity Motors. Having said that, it is my experience that extreme timing has a bigger impact on heat than gearing up one tooth. So if you are maxed on the timing go down a a few degrees and up one tooth and see if the temps and lap times are better.
Maby I didnt ask the question quite correctly
I know the D3.5 is geared correctly
the D3.5 is just a bench mark of performance
the gearing question is for a ROAR legal (brand X) motor
knowing it is going to be somewhat slower than the trinity.
So u would probably back out on the timing and keep adding gear ?
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:36 PM   #295
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Maby I didnt ask the question quite correctly
I know the D3.5 is geared correctly
the D3.5 is just a bench mark of performance
the gearing question is for a ROAR legal (brand X) motor
knowing it is going to be somewhat slower than the trinity.
So u would probably back out on the timing and keep adding gear ?
It depends too much on the motor to really answer your question.

If it we me, I would do the following

Max the timing out and go down two teeth from the trinity to start. Only run the motor for about 1.5 mins and check the temp.

Then add a tooth and don't change the timing.

Run again for 1.5 mins and check temp. Make sure temps don't go above 180 to 190max.

Keep adding a tooth until the temps get to about 140F for 1.5 min run.

Then do a 3 min run and make sure the temp is not above 170.

Then do a 5 min run and make sure the temp is not above 175

Then do a 6 min run and make sure the temp is not above 180

If you wan to be more cautious then start at 1 min runs, then 2 min, then 3 min , then 4...then 5...then 6, while you are following the above approach.

Martin.
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:48 PM   #296
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Hi Martin .

If I took two pistons , which had equal area of piston holes , but different amount of holes , would they have the same dampening, but more pack for the one with more holes ? For instance , 3 hole 1.1 and 2 hole 1.5 , both have nearly equal area ; so would they have the same dampening, but the 3 hole has more pack ?
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:48 PM   #297
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not sure what your knowledge is on 12scale is but if you are able to answer my question that would be great, otherwise will keep learning.

whenever i run my crc xti transverse with close to 0 toe in on the front end i find that car to have a inconsistent feel and snap oversteer, but when i go back to about 1 to 2 degrees toe in, it settles this down and makes the driving much more consistent and im able to place the car in the turn where i want it. however then i start to get understeer mid corner.

would there be a way to change setup to help run less toe in?

cheers.
brad
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:13 PM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
It depends too much on the motor to really answer your question.

If it we me, I would do the following

Max the timing out and go down two teeth from the trinity to start. Only run the motor for about 1.5 mins and check the temp.

Then add a tooth and don't change the timing.

Run again for 1.5 mins and check temp. Make sure temps don't go above 180 to 190max.

Keep adding a tooth until the temps get to about 140F for 1.5 min run.

Then do a 3 min run and make sure the temp is not above 170.

Then do a 5 min run and make sure the temp is not above 175

Then do a 6 min run and make sure the temp is not above 180

If you wan to be more cautious then start at 1 min runs, then 2 min, then 3 min , then 4...then 5...then 6, while you are following the above approach.

Martin.
Thank u thats what I needed to read . Tks for the pro approach
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:17 PM   #299
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Hi Martin,

Sorry if this has been asked before, I haven't had time to go through this whole thread, feel free to point to a previous post. I love all your setup tips and fixes, but what steps do you take during the build to ensure proper setup? For instance, on a TC
-How closely do you look at battery weights and engine weights to make sure things are balanced side to side or front to back?
-Do you move the receiver and ESC around also?
-Do you shim the motor off the motor mount, move the battery inboard or outboard?
-Do you shift the battery forward or backward?
-If you add weight, where do you put it? and what are you trying to accomplish?

These are the only items that come to mind right now, I'm sure you have many more insights. Bought your android app some time ago, love it.
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:29 AM   #300
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Hi martin, what is the ebst way to achieve more mid corner steering without affecting the turn in to much

Thanks
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