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Old 04-03-2014, 04:08 PM   #271
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Martin, would u suggest a affordable parts list for a autocross miata build?
Theirs a auto club here that does autox (hubcityspeed.com) at a old factoy parking lot .
want to build a car for the track thats legal at some of the larger events but dont want to go broke on a $1500 car ...
Shocks, wheels , tires, and how much of the car do I cut out . Lol
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:08 PM   #272
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Martin, would u suggest a affordable parts list for a autocross miata build?
Theirs a auto club here that does autox (hubcityspeed.com) at a old factoy parking lot .
want to build a car for the track thats legal at some of the larger events but dont want to go broke on a $1500 car ...
Shocks, wheels , tires, and how much of the car do I cut out . Lol
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:19 PM   #273
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Originally Posted by frozenpod View Post
Slightly off topic question but how would you go about improving the driver.

What would you consider a good consistency figure?

I have heard the suggestion to practice with a poorly setup car. One option was to get a well setup car and removal all the droop from one corner or fit a noticeably different spring to one corner.

Any specific training, where to look, how to find fast lines, goals to set ie consistency.
Here is some content I wrote on page 7 of this thread that might help



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Since you've raced real an r/c cars, how do you translate "picking your braking point" to r/c? The hardest thing I find is consistently hitting the spot to slow down, and slowing down the same amount, each lap. It turn that also relates to reacting to what car has done in a turn instead of making the car do what you want it to, got any tips on that?
Less of a setup question, but an important one for sure. I am sure there are different approaches, but let me share mine and how it relates to racing real cars. One of the things you learn early on in race schools or high performance driving schools is how important where, when and how you look at key reference points. This is perhaps the most important thing when driving full size cars when trying to a) go fast b) be consistent and c) be safe. They teach you to look far down the track well before you get to your braking point so you can consistently judge when to apply brakes. That's why a lot of race tracks have those braking markers at the side of the track, to give you a reference point. Once you have started your braking or somtimes even a little before you start your braking, you are then focusing on the turn-in point. Before you get to the turn-in point, you focus on the apex, ...before you get to the apex you start to focus on the corner exit reference point. They also teach you to use a "loose focus" with your eyes, which means you are looking at the reference point, but you are also concentrating on your peripheral vision to ensure you have spacial awareness of the cars around you.

How I apply these concepts to RC Car racing.

The details of the above perhaps are not as important as the concept of looking ahead so you can consistently judge your braking, your turn-in, your throttle etc.

Now you are saying, but how can I look ahead, when I need to focus on my car. The answer is in using that "loose focus" concept I talked about. So yes you look at your car as it is going down the straight, but you mentally need to build the skill of focusing on your peripheral vision to see your reference points for braking, turn-in, apex and exit.

It is difficult to do this, and it requires a lot of concentration. I am often yelling at myself (in my head) while driving to remember to use my peripheral vision to pick up the reference points, because it is very natural to just focus on your car.

The other side benefit of this approach is that it gives you more spacial awareness of the cars around you, which helps you better setup passes, avoid cars that crash just in front of you etc.

So yes, perhaps not about setup, but I think one of the most critical things to going consistently fast.

In terms of being more consistent with the actual applying of brakes, what I have found that having less overall braking in the car and a high frequency on the braking through the esc settings, the smoother and more consistent the braking can be.

I also use drag brake, not to be more consistent, but to speed up the transition from throttle to braking. So I run between 8% to 13% drag brake on my orca esc depending on what motor I am running. I run more drag brake for mod motors and less drag brake for say 17.5.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:25 PM   #274
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Martin, would u suggest a affordable parts list for a autocross miata build?
Theirs a auto club here that does autox (hubcityspeed.com) at a old factoy parking lot .
want to build a car for the track thats legal at some of the larger events but dont want to go broke on a $1500 car ...
Shocks, wheels , tires, and how much of the car do I cut out . Lol
Good tires are the best starting point. Find out that R Compound tires are legal in that series and as around what works at that track. Adding parts to the car might put you in a different class, but normally R compund tires are free. Depends on the organizing body
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:30 PM   #275
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Ok, so been doing some onroad racing for a couple months. I keep hearing at the track about fdr, ratio, etc. Of course when ask what is optimal, I get various answers. Even here on the forums, I read that some are at 4.0 and others are closer to 3.2...for the same car/motor size. Drives me nuts trying to figure this out. So, in generic terms, can it be explained on how to find the optimal fdr for a tc6.1, both 17.5 and 21.5 non-boosted, medium sizes track. I'm willing to put the work in, but just trying to learn on how to find the so called "sweet spot". Thanks
Looks like you got a good answer for this.

my 2 cents to augment....Bottom line is to get a ratio that is likely in the ballpark as mentioned and then start increasing the timing and gearing until you approach about 180 to 190 depending on the motor (different motors can accept more heat). From my testing, extreme timing generates more heat that just going up one tooth.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:41 PM   #276
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Looks like you got a good answer for this.

my 2 cents to augment....Bottom line is to get a ratio that is likely in the ballpark as mentioned and then start increasing the timing and gearing until you approach about 180 to 190 depending on the motor (different motors can accept more heat). From my testing, extreme timing generates more heat that just going up one tooth.
Martin

Im not trting to say your wrong or not agreeing with your last reply on motor temp (180). I seen your car run on videos and seen videos of you straight pull away from the field. I even read your book 4x now, great book by the way. So I'm more than happy to take god speed tips from you...

What I'm wondering is? 180 - 190 motor temp is little extreme right? If not, maybe I'm missing something here?
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:13 PM   #277
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Martin

Im not trting to say your wrong or not agreeing with your last reply on motor temp (180). I seen your car run on videos and seen videos of you straight pull away from the field. I even read your book 4x now, great book by the way. So I'm more than happy to take god speed tips from you...

What I'm wondering is? 180 - 190 motor temp is little extreme right? If not, maybe I'm missing something here?
Hey Marc,

No worries..just ask my wife...I am wrong about a lot of stuff

190 is pushing it, I like to stay below 180 if I can. It does depend a little on the motor. For example when I raced at the canadian nats about a month ago the motor I ran in 13.5 came off at 220. That is too hot in my opinion and it did slow down towards the end. I then backed off the timing and left the gearing where it was and it came off at 187 which is acceptable in my experience.
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:24 PM   #278
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Good tires are the best starting point. Find out that R Compound tires are legal in that series and as around what works at that track. Adding parts to the car might put you in a different class, but normally R compund tires are free. Depends on the organizing body
Well here in tn we only have 2 classes for the rear wheel drive class and its all about ur tires . If they have tread they r in same class and if u have slicks then theirs that class .
Some guys run both classes with same car ... mods to car isnt a issue for our series. Is there a better miata to have chassis wise ? Still havnt picked one up yet .
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:02 AM   #279
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Well here in tn we only have 2 classes for the rear wheel drive class and its all about ur tires . If they have tread they r in same class and if u have slicks then theirs that class .
Some guys run both classes with same car ... mods to car isnt a issue for our series. Is there a better miata to have chassis wise ? Still havnt picked one up yet .
the NB (second gen) Miata is slightly better handling tin high speed corners han the NA (First gen) on a race track, but for autocross I think the NA would be better as it is lighter. Tires, Swaybars and coilovers in that order is my recommendation.
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:04 AM   #280
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I plan on making some videos for the Learnsetup.com app this weekend, so stay tuned..
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:10 AM   #281
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Hey Marc,

No worries..just ask my wife...I am wrong about a lot of stuff

190 is pushing it, I like to stay below 180 if I can. It does depend a little on the motor. For example when I raced at the canadian nats about a month ago the motor I ran in 13.5 came off at 220. That is too hot in my opinion and it did slow down towards the end. I then backed off the timing and left the gearing where it was and it came off at 187 which is acceptable in my experience.
I was always under the assumption keeping the motor temp back of 150 is optimal and anything past that you run the risk of performance fading and smoking the motor lol.

Maybe you get the best performance running the motor closer to 180 temp (never tested at that temp). But isn't that a gamble running a higher risk of smoking your motor?
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Old 04-04-2014, 05:30 PM   #282
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I was always under the assumption keeping the motor temp back of 150 is optimal and anything past that you run the risk of performance fading and smoking the motor lol.

Maybe you get the best performance running the motor closer to 180 temp (never tested at that temp). But isn't that a gamble running a higher risk of smoking your motor?
150 is for sure safe, but in my experience too safe and you are giving up performance.
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Old 04-04-2014, 05:39 PM   #283
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150 is for sure safe, but in my experience too safe and you are giving up performance.
Well looks like I'm going to add a tooth, mess around with timing and see what comes of it. Running closer to 140 now so things may get little interesting.

Thanks Martin
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:45 PM   #284
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Well looks like I'm going to add a tooth, mess around with timing and see what comes of it. Running closer to 140 now so things may get little interesting.

Thanks Martin
No Problem! There is a lot more speed for you if you are around 140 F currently Have fun.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:14 PM   #285
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Hello I was just wondering what is best way to tune a 25.5 motor for vta?
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