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Old 03-27-2014, 06:45 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
Hello Martin,

just to throw a confusing log on the fire.

what is your opinion on piston depth at ride height?
ie, how far the piston protrudes at rest.

DJC
My view on this is that you would want to minimize the opportunity for the piston to hit the bladder at the top of the shock body. So I don't really worry about where the piston sits at rest.

To minimize the hitting of the bladder by the piston I make sure the plastic pieces screwed onto the bottom of the piston shaft are screwed on fully.

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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Hey Martin,

In terms of corner speed, what do you have to do with your rollcenter, both lower arms and turnbuckels?

Regards Robert
typically the higher the roll center the more lateral grip you get and thus the greater the corner speed. But higher roll centers can make the car feel edgy and a little harder to drive, in addition to increasing the chances of traction rolling.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:53 AM   #227
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Martin thanks for all the helpful info .
I have noticed that between finding a setup that works and dtuning camber as traction increases leaves me with 0 camber in front most of the day at the track . Lap times r on par with the fast guys and avg a .3 error factor thru my runs . Just wondering if im possibly leaving some time on the track since just about everyone has 1.5 neg camber in front . Tks
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:05 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Martin thanks for all the helpful info .
I have noticed that between finding a setup that works and dtuning camber as traction increases leaves me with 0 camber in front most of the day at the track . Lap times r on par with the fast guys and avg a .3 error factor thru my runs . Just wondering if im possibly leaving some time on the track since just about everyone has 1.5 neg camber in front . Tks
Hey Justin. Sometimes 1 degrees is the right answer, but I would try increasing the front and rear by 0.5 together to keep the balance and see what your laptimes tell you.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:04 AM   #229
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Default race weekend

I hope everyone has fun racing this weekend! Cheers.
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:51 PM   #230
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I hope everyone has fun racing this weekend! Cheers.
my son and i will have a great day,im going back to 13.5 boosted and also letting my son have a go,your app will come in handy ,ive taken on board what you said so im hoping for a very quick car
are you racing this weekend?
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:30 AM   #231
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my son and i will have a great day,im going back to 13.5 boosted and also letting my son have a go,your app will come in handy ,ive taken on board what you said so im hoping for a very quick car
are you racing this weekend?
Let me know how the car works.

No, I am not racing this weekend. Working on my full size race car this weekend. Need to roll the fenders to accommodate the wet weather conti's I purchased. They are 225 in size but are massively wider (like 245) than my BFG R1 225 dry tires.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:36 AM   #232
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Questions??

Hi Martin,

A question on tire balancing.
Would you recommend to do it on the used rubber tires for 1/10 on road?
I do understand and realize their importance and started to balance the tires for my TC.
However, when I checked after 1 run, the balanced tires are becoming unbalanced again!

Apparently, the inner foam is moving inside the tire.
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:01 PM   #233
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Ok I will admit I haven't read every single post just glanced through so forgive me if this has already been covered.

I am running a TC4 in the USVTA class on a tight, carpet, high grip track. My set up seams very different than most I see online. I have 11.5 lb front springs and 20 lb rear springs. 2 degrees of rear toe in. The smallest shim under all arm mounts. 3 washers under the camber link up front and 2 washers in the rear. The car drives well but sometimes picks up a slight push halfway through a run.

I've noticed most set ups run a stiffer front spring. My fastest lap is a 9.7 and average is 10.0. The fastest lap on the track in VTA is a 8.99. Not sure if my lack of speed is set up or me. The car does seem to really dig into the corner and loose speed. It also traction rolls when the grip comes up.

I will happily accept any advice you can give.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:21 PM   #234
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I cant ever think of a situation I ran a softer spring up front than the rear. With being that soft up front, its no wonder it digs in so hard and rolls. Whatvare your other seting at, droop, ride hight, shock oil, ect. If your set-up is different than everyone else's and your lap times are a second slower, why wouldn't you give the other set-up a try? (Im not trying to be condesending, just throwing it out there)

I would also like to say Martin is the man. I took his set-up advise and my car went from looking like a bingo ball tumbler, to being glued to the track. In fact it has so much grip now, and doesn't want to roll, that it scrubs serious speed through the corners. I can watch the rear end bounce as its coming through some of the tighter turns. I have tried to do some of the things I know that free up the rear end, but the front needs to be freed up as well. The whole car is now tight. I am running a very slight anti-dive per instructions, and I think this is what is helping the traction rolling. But since the car now has soooo much grip and fights rolling on its own, would it be ok to remove it? Would going up on shock oil also help? My car is actually fun to drive again.


Thanks for the help
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:51 PM   #235
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I haven't read this thread a whole lot since it went past the first 6-7 pages, but I must say I owe some gratitude to MC for his insight. In the past I had been told / taught that sway bars and high RC was more for when you are too hooked up and need to free the car up some... I guess maybe it goes back to carpet & foam tires (?)... at least that is IIRC , I have worked so much on trying to soften the car to fix traction issues! Well anyways I took a long break from RC and it seams that upon getting back in, I spent a lot of time trying what I thought was correct only to have frustrating results. What I have learned here (within the first few pages) in terms of just camber link angle, length, and shock position has helped so very much. And I would have never thought sway bars could have made such a difference (even in VTA)! I have in the course of 2 race meets taken a car I fought with all day and made it to where I am running a fast lap less than a tenth from the guys with a lot more track time and in some cases much better equipment. I get a fraction of the track time compared to some but I am in the mix and enjoying racing again, good stuff.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:28 PM   #236
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Proffesor my car seems to push with the stiffer springs up front. Everyone else runs a belt drive car so I don't have anyone I can borrow a set up from. I recently downloaded the Hudy set up manual. Looks like I need to go back to the base set up and follow the checklist in the set up guide.
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Old 03-30-2014, 10:10 PM   #237
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Also look at petit rc .com or associateds website. There are alot of set-ups there. Belt or shaft doesnt matter the physics are the same. Is it a carpet track, are you saucing the tires? The TC 4 forum should be able to give some guidance as well. That chassis is a VTA heavy hitter. I know there are some people here on rc tech that can definately get you up to speed. Good luck and above all have fun.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:43 AM   #238
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I've always wondered this, what exactly does having rake in the ride height do? In what situation would you run a bigger split between front and rear ride height compared to a smaller split or no split at all?
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:49 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
Let me know how the car works.

No, I am not racing this weekend. Working on my full size race car this weekend. Need to roll the fenders to accommodate the wet weather conti's I purchased. They are 225 in size but are massively wider (like 245) than my BFG R1 225 dry tires.
Miata?
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:24 AM   #240
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
I haven't read this thread a whole lot since it went past the first 6-7 pages, but I must say I owe some gratitude to MC for his insight. In the past I had been told / taught that sway bars and high RC was more for when you are too hooked up and need to free the car up some... I guess maybe it goes back to carpet & foam tires (?)... at least that is IIRC , I have worked so much on trying to soften the car to fix traction issues! Well anyways I took a long break from RC and it seams that upon getting back in, I spent a lot of time trying what I thought was correct only to have frustrating results. What I have learned here (within the first few pages) in terms of just camber link angle, length, and shock position has helped so very much. And I would have never thought sway bars could have made such a difference (even in VTA)! I have in the course of 2 race meets taken a car I fought with all day and made it to where I am running a fast lap less than a tenth from the guys with a lot more track time and in some cases much better equipment. I get a fraction of the track time compared to some but I am in the mix and enjoying racing again, good stuff.
I can vouch for the improvement. Your car is right in the hunt now - nice work!
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