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Old 02-17-2014, 06:26 AM
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Default setting shock rebound for a beginner ...help

So I'm new at setting up on road and need some help
For a beginner how much rebound should I have?
For m-05 or sakura zero s?
Any help would be great tried to Google it but didn't really find answer.
Thanks for any help
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:31 AM
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A lot depends on the application. Are you running on carpet or asphalt? Foams or rubber? Slower (VTA) or faster class? Once we know the application, we can guide you.
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by nubie-wan
A lot depends on the application. Are you running on carpet or asphalt? Foams or rubber? Slower (VTA) or faster class? Once we know the application, we can guide you.
Carpet larger track . vta , stock 17.5, super stock 13.5, tamiya mini m-05 all rubber
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:57 AM
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Just build the shocks the way the instructions tell you. It is a lot easier that worrying about rebound which makes a tiny, tiny difference to the car.
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:58 AM
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I don't have a lot of carpet experience but i think you want semi stiff shocks. A rough guess would be to get approximately 50% rebound. If you find that a bit soft, set for 75% or conversely 25%. A lot depends on the amount of bite the carpet has. Just be sure to make them equal in front and also in back.

I run on asphalt and rubber so I set for about 25% rebound, if that gives you any idea. Sometime I want things a bit stiffer for the faster classes. but that can be tuned with springs.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamThibault
Carpet larger track . vta , stock 17.5, super stock 13.5, tamiya mini m-05 all rubber
0-10% rebound is the general starting point. So build your shock per normal take the bladder and place it on top of your built shock with oil and compress the shock shaft all the way. Then press the bladder down and let the shock shaft compress with it. After that lift one side of the bladder slightly to allow excess oil to come out, while pressing in the center of the bladder with your pinky finger, its difficult to build shocks with big fingers. Next while the bladder is sealed on the top grab the biottom of the shock shaft and extend it all the way down allowing pressure to hold down the bladder, take a rag and wipe excess oil off it GENTLY be sure no to unseat the bladder. put the shock cap on a could of turns then gently and SLOWLY push the shock shaft until it is fulling compresses. Thread your shock cap all the way on while holding the shock shaft position. Cycle the shaft a few times and see where the shaft extends to, if you dont have a hole drilled in the top of your shock cap, and are running a stiff bladder it will be much more difficult to achieve low rebound. Bladders and holes in your shock caps are TUNING OPTIONS not something a beginner should mess with until you get use to the car, make sure the front left and right shocks have the SAME amount of rebound. Then check the rears make sure they have the SAME amount of rebound it does not matter how much rebound you have if you cant build a shock consistently if they are not the same the car will not handle properly front to back the rebound doesnt have to be the same ,just left to right for the front and the rear. Rebound is a tuning tool, minimal rebound is what most guys in touring car run because it allows for less traction, as to my understanding. Martin crisp's thread "traction rolling, and how to solve it" is a place where you can ask him the genius of this trade questions like what does different rebound do, and what does a hole in the top of the cap allow, and what does a stiffer compared a softer bladder allow. These are all tuning options also his set up app is the BOMB its awesome. If you have any questions feel free to ask away sorry for the long post
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