catalzzy

Hi,

I have an history of rc cars since i first own a standard tamiya shaft drive electric on road car which wasnt that fast because its so standard. Then i own the first nitro hpi rush evo which was classic till i ruined the spur gear and snapped the rear right drive shaft.. terrible history of nitro buggies.

Now i own a brushless kyosho tf-5 shaft drive and i was mad enough to put in a drag motor 3.5t with 2 cell lipo which was pretty fast and lots of take off until i destroyed the drive shaft and the gear diff end thing connected to drive shaft ripped (not the gear diff inside) because its useless plastic. The chassis is useless now because its old and no spare parts available.

so, i am looking for a first belt drive which would be either the spec r sports or sakura xi sports but i am so unsure which one i would be getting it in terms of reliability since i owned 2 3.5t motors which is left in the shelf. Because i am always up for drag. i always wanted to do proper touring because it is now best of my interest.

What are the pro and con of owning a belt drive? What would be the maintenance effort for it? I have no experience in belt drive cars. Could anybody elaborate and confirm my position to buy one.... and of course any suggestions what i should get.

Thanks....
ciao

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

If you plan to run a low wind mod motor then a belt drive car is best.

If you are interested in a Spec-R car, then have a look at the R1 graphite car and parts that I'm selling.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...c-r-sedan.html

catalzzy

yeah probably. i did a 3.5t on a shaft drive and it was just instant power and uncontrollable when throttling like a mad dog from standstill. I have seen other guy with the same but his belt driven and it looks smoother and faster. however i need to know more in depth of a belt driven car.

And by the way, i dont think that would be possible because i am living in malaysia. :S only if you allow international postage...

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

belt drive doesn't have torque steer of shaft, so it works better for low wind motors.

belt drive doesn't do well on surfaces with debris (pebbles, sand) because it chews the belts, and gets stuck in the pulleys.

what more information do you need?

catalzzy

how regularly to maintain a belt drive? is there any way to avoid debris and does that even ruin a pulley's tooth?

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

every run go through and clean belts of dust and debris. small rocks can get into the teeth of the pulleys, and chew them up


don't drive on a dusty surface, and there will be no debris.

catalzzy

i was wondering about the belt tension, does the front and back pulley move and how can i adjust the belt length? arent they the same because they look the same to me?

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I don't mean to be obnoxious, but with your history of breaking stuff and your love of speed and parking lots, maybe you should get a 4WD Slash and dump some power in there. Then you would have something fast that can take a beating.

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

Some cars use a cam system in the bulkheads that can adjust the belt tension, some cars use equal length belts, some don't (most comp level cars use longer front shorter rear belts)
Good advice

catalzzy

haha i have enough of bashing and stuff... i am now more interested in touring because there is competition.. just not for fun though

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

Your belts are adjustable by the Diff cams, both front and rear.

Tamiya in the TA0* series, I believe, use the same belt lengths front and rear. Otherwise, 507/510mm front and 186/189mm rear is pretty common, although XRay uses a 513mm front and 186mm rear.

Modified can be tough on belts if run to loose, generally, 4-5mm deflection would be a good place to start.

catalzzy

thats great. however which one i should opt for the sakura xi, zero or the spec r s1?

if i was to run on foams 26front and 30 back would be fine? how wide can the back go? up to 35?

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

spec r s1.

foams tend to get chewed up on the road i think, it would be better to go for a treaded tire like the hpi x patterns in pro compound.

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

In your first post you said you had a tamiya tc. Was it a tt01 by any chance?
You know, those can easily be tuned up to run very very fast.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

If you want to actually race, which it sounds like maybe you do, the absolute first thing to do is find out about local clubs, and go check out the racing. Meet people, learn about the classes, and then choose a class to start with and go from there. Racing with other people on a track is very different from parking lot speed runs. You may want to start with something slower.

-Mike