Maxamps batteries chat
07-11-2005, 05:09 AM
#18
We race 8 min heats here. just wondering if those batteries could go the distance...
07-11-2005, 06:22 AM
#19
Suspended
Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
Well this is a pretty long conversation but let me see if I can sum it up for you as best I can. This is my opinion so please take it for what it is......Basically what we guarantee is that any of the cells that we offer could be made 1.18V per cell on a 30 amp discharge if cycled several times and ran on a turbomatcher.
Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
When you buy an 80 dollar matched and stickered pack from another supplier you are paying for a sticker stating that for 1 cycle at some point that cell hit 1.18V. You don't know if they are making up the numbers on the cells. You don't know if they are using other tactics like cutting off the voltage early or averaging 10 seconds of no load into the total average voltage. There are hundreds of ways to "cook" up stickers and make them look better than they are. Basically you beat the cell to death by either dead shorting, zapping too many times, cycling at extreme amp rates or many other tricks to get the cell to show an average voltage for 1 good cycle. Then they print a sticker and charge you $80 for a beaten up cell.
Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
That doesn't mean that when you run the cell you will get the same numbers. In fact, if you ran the cells on your equipment and didn't come up with the numbers on the stickers they would not take the cells back. They would say that you are not doing something right and they will not give you your money back in this case.
Last edited by cr250; 07-11-2005 at 06:57 AM.
07-11-2005, 10:35 AM
#21
Well, well, well...here we are at it again.
Burbs - have you ever had a Maxamps battery pack in your hands, have you touched it, tested it or run them? It seems the other posters hereon, have tried them and are making first hand, hands-on knowledgable posts...
By chance are you related to Nitroforce at TDODC?
Any real racer knows where the finish line is! If he doesn't then he is a bigger ... than the one that feels he must show the way... Now if Amatures built the ark... professionals built the Titanic... its obvious you are a true professional. If history serves me right, I rather hitch a ride with Noah.
DinoXXX, Maxamp batteries will run an 8 minute stock heat.. and a 5 minute 10D modified dirt race with some power to spare. BTDT!
Burbs - have you ever had a Maxamps battery pack in your hands, have you touched it, tested it or run them? It seems the other posters hereon, have tried them and are making first hand, hands-on knowledgable posts...
By chance are you related to Nitroforce at TDODC?
Any real racer knows where the finish line is! If he doesn't then he is a bigger ... than the one that feels he must show the way... Now if Amatures built the ark... professionals built the Titanic... its obvious you are a true professional. If history serves me right, I rather hitch a ride with Noah.
DinoXXX, Maxamp batteries will run an 8 minute stock heat.. and a 5 minute 10D modified dirt race with some power to spare. BTDT!
Last edited by Hick; 07-12-2005 at 08:05 PM.
07-11-2005, 11:09 AM
#22
marks on the cell doesn't mean it was zapped by a good zapper...
Also voltage has very little to do with a "good" zapper the uF of the capacitor and the total amperage is far more important.
I have no clue if maxamps uses a zapper or what they use...
Just wanting to clear up any misleading information.
Also voltage has very little to do with a "good" zapper the uF of the capacitor and the total amperage is far more important.
I have no clue if maxamps uses a zapper or what they use...
Just wanting to clear up any misleading information.
07-11-2005, 01:54 PM
#26
Originally Posted by burbs
my whole point is not how the qualitiy of the batteries is.. or how they perform.. The point is they are selling there stuff under false claims.. they have no proof, yet they guarentee... that is what i am talking about...
But what the hell, he quarentees that numbers on YOUR equipment, not some fancy-smancy equipment they have in a back room...Have you ever tried getting the same numbers from a pack from Trinity?? Or better yet, do you think Trinity would offer you a guarentee?? (not trying to bash trinity)
Buy a pack and run them, then make all the accusations you want...before the winter, I am planning on switching completely to maxamp cells...I am already running them in my nitro as a receiver pack, and both my 1/18th scale cars...
Oh yes, I do run competively, I am not a backyard basher....
Last edited by k_bojar; 07-11-2005 at 07:16 PM.
07-11-2005, 06:09 PM
#27
Burbs, by your own admission you have made false claims in your post here on. 
Then by failing to answer my questions... forces me to conclude that you have not had Maxamp Batteries in your posession! Your theories and principles are commendable, but you are unable to support them up with the conviction of first hand knowledge! 
Then to attempt to divert attention to another poster as shows me you even doubt yourself, even going so far as to acknowledge your signature is stupid! Wow!
Yes, I can be an idiot, a moron, a clown and a "Hick", anything else you desire to call me, that's okay, because you could be right at that specific moment in time!
I do run competatively, asphalt and dirt oval in several classes. I have used many a brand name, but I make NO claims that cannot be backed up based on my own testing, experiences and several other witnesses!
When I am not sure of things, I invoke the 5th. 
Then by failing to answer my questions... forces me to conclude that you have not had Maxamp Batteries in your posession! Your theories and principles are commendable, but you are unable to support them up with the conviction of first hand knowledge! Then to attempt to divert attention to another poster as shows me you even doubt yourself, even going so far as to acknowledge your signature is stupid! Wow!
Yes, I can be an idiot, a moron, a clown and a "Hick", anything else you desire to call me, that's okay, because you could be right at that specific moment in time!
I do run competatively, asphalt and dirt oval in several classes. I have used many a brand name, but I make NO claims that cannot be backed up based on my own testing, experiences and several other witnesses!
When I am not sure of things, I invoke the 5th.
Last edited by Hick; 07-11-2005 at 06:24 PM.
07-11-2005, 08:42 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Clint
Well this is a pretty long conversation but let me see if I can sum it up
for you as best I can. This is my opinion so please take it for what its
worth. Our cells come off the top 50% or so of the loose cells that come
from GP. We don't match them ourselves but they are grouped with like
voltages. We zap the cells which lowers internal resistance. Basically what
we guarantee is that any of the cells that we offer could be made 1.18V per
cell on a 30 amp discharge if cycled several times and ran on a
turbomatcher. Cells improve and degrade as they are cycled based on charge
rate, discharge rate, temperature, and other factors including dead shorting
and zapping. When you buy an 80 dollar matched and stickered pack from
another supplier you are paying for a sticker stating that for 1 cycle at
some point that cell hit 1.18V. You don't know if they are making up the
numbers on the cells. You don't know if they are using other tactics like
cutting off the voltage early or averaging 10 seconds of no load into the
total average voltage. There are hundreds of ways to "cook" up stickers and
make them look better than they are. Basically you beat the cell to death by
either dead shorting, zapping too many times, cycling at extreme amp rates
or many other tricks to get the cell to show an average voltage for 1 good
cycle. Then they print a sticker and charge you $80 for a beaten up cell.
Our contention is that you are losing many good cycles just before it
reaches 1.18V that you could be using the cell. You are also losing life on
the cell because of how they are treating it to get it to that level. Not to
mention the fact that you are paying for 1 good cycle that you don't even
use in your vehicle. That doesn't mean that when you run the cell you will
get the same numbers. In fact, if you ran the cells on your equipment and
didn't come up with the numbers on the stickers they would not take the
cells back. They would say that you are not doing something right and they
will not give you your money back in this case.
We claim that our cells are 1.18V and I have proven it over and over again.
If I was the consumer then I would prefer to pay less money and beat up my
own cells, not pay twice as much to have someone else push it to the highest
level on one cycle then put it on a shelf for who knows how long before
getting a well used cell with a sticker that really means nothing compared
to how its performing right now.
I don't know if that makes sense to you but it does to the thousands of
people who buy our cells.
Best Regards,
Clint
www.MaxAmps.com
for you as best I can. This is my opinion so please take it for what its
worth. Our cells come off the top 50% or so of the loose cells that come
from GP. We don't match them ourselves but they are grouped with like
voltages. We zap the cells which lowers internal resistance. Basically what
we guarantee is that any of the cells that we offer could be made 1.18V per
cell on a 30 amp discharge if cycled several times and ran on a
turbomatcher. Cells improve and degrade as they are cycled based on charge
rate, discharge rate, temperature, and other factors including dead shorting
and zapping. When you buy an 80 dollar matched and stickered pack from
another supplier you are paying for a sticker stating that for 1 cycle at
some point that cell hit 1.18V. You don't know if they are making up the
numbers on the cells. You don't know if they are using other tactics like
cutting off the voltage early or averaging 10 seconds of no load into the
total average voltage. There are hundreds of ways to "cook" up stickers and
make them look better than they are. Basically you beat the cell to death by
either dead shorting, zapping too many times, cycling at extreme amp rates
or many other tricks to get the cell to show an average voltage for 1 good
cycle. Then they print a sticker and charge you $80 for a beaten up cell.
Our contention is that you are losing many good cycles just before it
reaches 1.18V that you could be using the cell. You are also losing life on
the cell because of how they are treating it to get it to that level. Not to
mention the fact that you are paying for 1 good cycle that you don't even
use in your vehicle. That doesn't mean that when you run the cell you will
get the same numbers. In fact, if you ran the cells on your equipment and
didn't come up with the numbers on the stickers they would not take the
cells back. They would say that you are not doing something right and they
will not give you your money back in this case.
We claim that our cells are 1.18V and I have proven it over and over again.
If I was the consumer then I would prefer to pay less money and beat up my
own cells, not pay twice as much to have someone else push it to the highest
level on one cycle then put it on a shelf for who knows how long before
getting a well used cell with a sticker that really means nothing compared
to how its performing right now.
I don't know if that makes sense to you but it does to the thousands of
people who buy our cells.
Best Regards,
Clint
www.MaxAmps.com
1) You say "We don't match them ourselves but they are grouped with like
voltages. We zap the cells which lowers internal resistance."
I say- "If you don't match them, then how do you know the voltage? All cells have a self discharge particular to that cell. Unless they were all manufactured at the exact same time and you are waiting the exact amount of days hours and minutes after they are manufactured to check them, then you can't rely on shelf voltage. Fact is, even if you COULD voltage test them all at the same time then the test would only be good for a few days at most because after that the differences in individual cell discharge would come into play.
Zapping- are you zapping at full charge, full discharge or just what ever charge the cell has when you get it? I won't ask any "trade secrets" about your $5000.00 (minimum for a big daddy zapper) zapper, but give me an idea of the amount of voltage, amperage and seconds you are zapping the cells."
2) You say "When you buy an 80 dollar matched and stickered pack from
another supplier you are paying for a sticker stating that for 1 cycle at
some point that cell hit 1.18V."
I say- "Do what? The AV on the sticker doesn't mean the cell touched on 1.18V at some point in the cycle; it means the cell AVERAGED 1.18volts DURING the cycle. AV stands for Average Voltage. Dude, you are waaaaay off on that one, and even I can't come up with a way to BS out of that if I were in your shoes....
I'm too tired to waste any more time on this.
Oh, one thing though- for those of you who say they can't tell the difference between a good matched pack with good or decent AV and AIR and an unmatched pack with numbers all over the place and mediocre AIR- IF that's true, it's ok, but don't make a habit of telling people on the forums because you are pretty much letting them know how slow you are. Seriously.
07-11-2005, 09:38 PM
#29
but don't make a habit of telling people on the forums because you are pretty much letting them know how slow you are. Seriously.
How the heck you post an Excell chart here-on?
07-11-2005, 10:24 PM
#30
Sorry... Didn't mean to use that as a weapon 
Anyway, whats the diff between 30amp discharge and 35amp discharge? My promatches are 35amp discharge I think somethin 35amp while other batteries are 30amp whats the main difference? Power?
Anyway, whats the diff between 30amp discharge and 35amp discharge? My promatches are 35amp discharge I think somethin 35amp while other batteries are 30amp whats the main difference? Power?