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Old 08-28-2015, 10:35 AM   #151
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The O ring is supposed to go inside the shock collar adjuster that rotates. The purpose is to create resistance so the collar doesn't turn on its own.

Regarding the broken tip.. Do you have a drill out bit? If not, I would use a 2mm drill bit and drill into screw, it should catch it and if you're lucky rotate or out. Otherwise you can also drill out and use a 3mm grub screw instead
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Old 08-28-2015, 10:50 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
The O ring is supposed to go inside the shock collar adjuster that rotates. The purpose is to create resistance so the collar doesn't turn on its own.

Regarding the broken tip.. Do you have a drill out bit? If not, I would use a 2mm drill bit and drill into screw, it should catch it and if you're lucky rotate or out. Otherwise you can also drill out and use a 3mm grub screw instead
Thanks, it looks like TOP has it wrong in the illustration then. Yes, that makes sense, I was wondering why they'd put it on the other side. My CupRacer has the o-ring on the spring side, but the issue is after a while, that o-ring starts to distort and heights get screwd up anyway.

I'm fine with not using the o-ring all together as there's already preload and does not spin on its own. Thanks though!

I do have different easy-outs but not in that size. The tip is a 1.5mm so there's barely any room to drill a hole in the broken bit.

Yes, I too was thinking worst case, just drill the whole thing out and use a larger set screw.
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Old 08-28-2015, 10:52 AM   #153
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BTW, has anyone broken the factory plastic bell crank?
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:02 AM   #154
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Newer TC's are starting to use 4mm grub screws for droop. They're much better because they don't damage the chassis as easily as the 3mm.

I cut and place a little piece of chassis protecter film so that the grub screw doesn't dig in the carbon.
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Old 08-28-2015, 11:53 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
Newer TC's are starting to use 4mm grub screws for droop. They're much better because they don't damage the chassis as easily as the 3mm.

I cut and place a little piece of chassis protecter film so that the grub screw doesn't dig in the carbon.
Cool, thanks for the info. I have plenty of choices for droop screws if I can't get mine out then.

That's a great idea!
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Old 08-28-2015, 10:49 PM   #156
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I took the front arm off the chassis and was able to remove the droop screw from the bottom side of the arm using pliers. Installed new setscrew, now good as new.

Borrowed my SabreFD Mini's body and placed it on the Sabre 4WD Mini.


Side by side..


Tomorrow I'm going to work on the Sabre4WD Mini's alignment and mount standard 60D tires. S-Grips have too much grip on my track surface. I will also up the pinion to 25teeth from 23 teeth.
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:22 AM   #157
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You should try some 55D tires. The Team Powers mini tires are a good all around choice. The 4WD Sabre was designed around the smaller diameter tires.
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:44 AM   #158
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In response to your question. A few people have snapped the steering arm and the solution was to turn the servo to run across the chassis and turn the steering expo down.

Regards,

Calvin
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:16 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan View Post
You should try some 55D tires. The Team Powers mini tires are a good all around choice. The 4WD Sabre was designed around the smaller diameter tires.
Yeah, if I keep running into rubbing issues I will try the 55D's. Today I upped the pinion from 23t to 24t. I think this is where I want to be instead of 25t for my track.

Going to play with the weight distribution some more today. I finished the initial alignment and damper settings this am.

Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
In response to your question. A few people have snapped the steering arm and the solution was to turn the servo to run across the chassis and turn the steering expo down.

Regards,

Calvin
Thanks for the info, Calvin. eR1c sent me a few pictures of how his is setup too with the horizontal servo placement as you mentioned. I will look into this.
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:21 AM   #160
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Do any of you run weights?

I got mine to rotate well, but rotating right is slightly push-under vs rotating left.
Any suggestions? TIA
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:25 AM   #161
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No need for weights.. switch to a full length LiPo (not shorty) it will balance out the chassis
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:50 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
No need for weights.. switch to a full length LiPo (not shorty) it will balance out the chassis
Okay, thanks. Do you have any recommendations? My full size are all round housing ones so was thinking about getting a rectangular shaped one.

I don't need a huge capacity. 3000-4500 would be plenty.
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Old 08-30-2015, 11:13 AM   #163
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if round housing full length is what you run... then it makes no sense to spend money on new batteries. I would then look into balancing with weight.

This is what I run in both my TC and Sabre Mini..

http://www.valuehobby.com/elite-70c-6000mah-2s-t.html
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Old 08-30-2015, 11:28 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raman View Post
if round housing full length is what you run... then it makes no sense to spend money on new batteries. I would then look into balancing with weight.

This is what I run in both my TC and Sabre Mini..

http://www.valuehobby.com/elite-70c-6000mah-2s-t.html
Thanks, for the link.

I run mostly m-chassis and not all of them can take the rectangular packs, so this is why I only have the round housing Lipo's in full size. I do like the fact that the rectangular ones have wire take off at the top of the battery, even the hardwired ones though.
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Old 08-30-2015, 11:51 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
Thanks, for the link.

I run mostly m-chassis and not all of them can take the rectangular packs, so this is why I only have the round housing Lipo's in full size. I do like the fact that the rectangular ones have wire take off at the top of the battery, even the hardwired ones though.
Actually the removable banana plugs are a nightmare.. although the ESC companies probably love them because they make $ on us reversing polarity... and charging us a flat fee for repair.

I paint all my + terminals on the battery with red paint, but still have managed to reverse polarity by not paying attention.

I have since resorted to buying only batteries with + terminal on left hand and tie wrapping one wire shorter so it can not reach the opposite terminal..

If I still manage to reverse polarity, I will epoxy the banana plugs in and go back to deans.
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