daveb

iTrader: (4)

Rick, so I got the HPI silver springs and since the diameter of the spring is slightly larger, are you using a different collar and cup on the springs? i also tried the TC5 1.25 sway bar, how are you keeping it from going side to side since the bend starts a little outside the sway bar mount?

rossb

My kit is missing one of the 4x7mm bearings for the steering posts

When assembling the front caster blocks I noticed that the 6.2 manual says this:
The 6.1 uses the same plastic parts and the 6.1 manual says this:
I built my 6.1 putting the numbers on top for both the front and back sides. I have been running my 6.1 assembled like that for the past few years and now I think it is wrong. I never checked the caster on my setup board.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

They are incorrect. You essentially have zero caster. The inserts are offset from front to rear of the c hub to create the tilt thus giving you caster angle.

The good thing is that you didn't go the other way and create positive caster.

jonston

iTrader: (4)

hmmm, which is incorrect? both numbers to the top?

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

The 1st attachment is correct
When looking at the car from the front, the numbers should read like normal. The rear numbers should be upside down. HTH

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Both attachments are correct, just written differently. Notice that it says that it is from the front it should be at top given the side it is, so naturally since 1 is left and 1 is right, they will be opposite from each other.

Like Jaybee said, when you are looking at the caster block installed in the car from the front, the number should be at the top for both left and right. The rear view of the caster block is always going to have to be with the number facing downwards, otherwise, the only way to get them to "Key in" to each other is by forcing them.

Overpowered

The picture in the attachment of the diagram on the right is ONLY when viewing your caster block from the front of the car, on the back-side of each caster block the number should be on the bottom. Pic attached.

JRnotEwing

iTrader: (6)

Just so Ross doesn't think he's the only one, I built my 6.1wc the same as he did. The tc6.1 instructions were very faulty. It went together tight. And I used my reamer forever to get it smooth. And drove it like that for until breaking one and a local Team AE driver pointed it out. Amazing how much better it drives now
Just building my 6.2 right now and I see they've corrected the manual. I'll have to make some other dumb mistake

RaceDayHobbies

If you look closely at the two halves before putting them into the caster block, you can see a small "key" feature sticking out on the back side, opposite the number. There is a accompanying "key hole" on the back side, on the same end as the number. Like the previous posts say, the number is on the top when looking from the front of the car. Now lining up the key and key hole will put the number on the bottom when viewed from the rear. Unfortunately, the keys are not large enough to stop you from putting them in wrong.

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

Glad I just read these posts. Just assembled a 6.1 worlds over the weekend and assembled my blocks wrong too. Manual was hard to follow at times. Bad part is, I did glue the inserts in, so no dice on removal. I carefully examined the blocks on mine, I had no "key" in mine so it was easy to assemble incorrectly. My kit also came with the wrong shock seals and some of the hardware is imperial not metric. Seems my kit was packaged on a Friday around quitting time! Good thing is that I build alot of kits, so seals and screws were easily on hand.

Rick Hohwart

You can use the HPI springs with the AE spring cups and collars but there will be slop. I don't think this will matter but if you want to tighten things up you will need to use HPI spring cups and Yokomo shock collars. The only draw back is that with the Yokomo collars you will no longer be able to use the smaller diameter springs without swapping back to the AE collars.

The sway bar can be tightened in two ways. The simplest is to use a piece of shrink tubing around the bar between the mount. You want the tubing to be just long enough to keep the bar from moving side to side but loose enough so that the bar moves freely.

The nicest option is to use collars like these from RSD which are designed fro this purpose.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

Are these what you are referring to? Only ones I could find.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...oad-Collar-Set

Rick Hohwart

correct!

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

For some reason I cannot locate the HPI spring cups.

I'm currently using these:
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-13mm...ps_p_1480.html

There is a little bit of play but I don't think it would cause the spring to slip off by any means. But the stock collar is fairly loose, the spring slips quite a bit up top.

A_Cartwright

iTrader: (2)

I have those too Mike. Not bad but definitely not perfect without the Yokomo top collars. I wouldn't stress too hard about the HPI springs. AE ones are pretty darn good for the parking lot races in our area.

I wanted to give Mike some props. He hasn't been racing long and he was 'booted' out of our local novice class. He ran our scale spec class for the first time Saturday night and made the A main and ran a solid race. Great job!