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Old 10-27-2014, 09:01 PM   #1471
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I'm up at a Northern Mine, with no internet at camp, and my phone hot spotted really bites right now, so I can't seem to have a look at Andrew Cartwright's set-up sheet. I'll download it tomorrow when I'm connected on the LAN.

What is everyone typically using for springs on their TC6.2's, especially for carpet?

I ask for a fellow member lent me a set of Associated Greens (12 lbs/in), he said to just keep them and pay him back with a replacement set.

So is the #3988 Spring Kit a worth while buy considering I'll only be running on our clubs carpet? The Silver Kit springs are 14.4 lbs/in, will I really deviate more to say the extreme white springs at 40 lbs/in? Or even the ones in between?

I'm just wondering if I need this kit, or just replace the greens to my club member?

Thanks!


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Old 10-27-2014, 09:04 PM   #1472
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I wouldn't worry about getting the AE kit. Get the Yokomo yellow, blue, and pink springs and go from there.
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:13 PM   #1473
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Originally Posted by Dan Hamann View Post
I wouldn't worry about getting the AE kit. Get the Yokomo yellow, blue, and pink springs and go from there.
Really? Why is this, are they more progressive or linear over the AE ones?

What are the rates of the Yokomos in comparison?

I haven't been able to look at Cartwright's or Hebert's set-ups yet, but will get them tomorrow.
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:46 PM   #1474
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blue silver and green is all I use for all my AE TC's...there is nothing wrong with using them and they work...now some will say for that fine tuning the RSD or Yoko springs work better, but for your club/fun/learning....I would not go to deep...IMO
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:59 PM   #1475
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blue silver and green is all I use for all my AE TC's...there is nothing wrong with using them and they work...now some will say for that fine tuning the RSD or Yoko springs work better, but for your club/fun/learning....I would not go to deep...IMO
+1

Wise words right there
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:25 AM   #1476
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Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
Really? Why is this, are they more progressive or linear over the AE ones?

What are the rates of the Yokomos in comparison?
Allways helpful and being posted by many:
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-Univ...art_ep_58.html

And for club/fun/learning I agree with darkside and JustWill75.
Currently I'm using AE silver front and rear.
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Old 10-28-2014, 06:36 AM   #1477
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Thanks for everyone's comments, suggestions and links!

I had a look at the setup sheets and all are using Yokomo pinks (front) and Yokomo blue (back). Would anybody have a part number for these as I see various ones that fit this description.

That said, are most TC springs universal? That is an Xray, Yokomo, AE will fit each other?

I'll pickup a set of AE Blues and greens as well.
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:04 AM   #1478
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Thanks for this wtcc! May I ask what kind of track do you run? e.g indoor/outdoor, carpet/asphalt, grip level? And what kind of set up are you running? Box or has it been tuned to your liking?
My track has a medium grip carpet surface, but see for yourself:
http://indoor-racing-senden.de


My setup is a mix of standard settings with some values being rather extreme and two changes to the car which my brain invented and which worked very well for me:



This setup originated from a medium grip outdoor asphalt track. The car was equipped with a 10.5t outdoors and later indoors, too. I did only small changes as it worked very well indoor/outdoor with 10.5/17.5t motor
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Old 10-28-2014, 10:43 AM   #1479
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Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
Thanks for everyone's comments, suggestions and links!

I had a look at the setup sheets and all are using Yokomo pinks (front) and Yokomo blue (back). Would anybody have a part number for these as I see various ones that fit this description.

That said, are most TC springs universal? That is an Xray, Yokomo, AE will fit each other?

I'll pickup a set of AE Blues and greens as well.

ug I asked these questions and never got things really figured out or why a spring in most cases is just a spring.

You can get Yokomo springs sure but there are some mods you either have to do or get different shock collars and cups for the bottom. I think one person used HPI for the bottom part of the shock. Another person simply just pinched the bottom Yokomo shock to make it work with the stock AE shock body.

I went with RSD springs because I'm tired of moding things to simply make things work. I don't think its fair to say AE makes poor springs but alot of top racers prefer other brands probably because other manufacturer's products can make finer adjustments. On the club level I have used the AE springs and they work fine; All you really need probably is silver front and green at the back.

RSD has a fairly good spring chart on its website so you can make comparisons.
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:14 PM   #1480
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You fast! Me...not so much

It was a fun try for me in mod, but now I will go back to my normal speed of 13.5 however, after trying mod I must say, you guys have some serious skills to drive them mod cars with that much power behind it. your car looked good!

S
Haha, just gotta keep running and eventually it will feel like a 13.5 to you... then you get to crank the timing up on the motor and ESC and learn to deal with even more power Thanks for the kind words though, very happy with the new car!
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:12 PM   #1481
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
My track has a medium grip carpet surface, but see for yourself:
http://indoor-racing-senden.de


My setup is a mix of standard settings with some values being rather extreme and two changes to the car which my brain invented and which worked very well for me:

This setup originated from a medium grip outdoor asphalt track. The car was equipped with a 10.5t outdoors and later indoors, too. I did only small changes as it worked very well indoor/outdoor with 10.5/17.5t motor
Very nice looking track wtcc! Thanks for posting your set-up sheet for reference.


Quote:
Originally Posted by irvinew View Post
ug I asked these questions and never got things really figured out or why a spring in most cases is just a spring.

You can get Yokomo springs sure but there are some mods you either have to do or get different shock collars and cups for the bottom. I think one person used HPI for the bottom part of the shock. Another person simply just pinched the bottom Yokomo shock to make it work with the stock AE shock body.

I went with RSD springs because I'm tired of moding things to simply make things work. I don't think its fair to say AE makes poor springs but alot of top racers prefer other brands probably because other manufacturer's products can make finer adjustments. On the club level I have used the AE springs and they work fine; All you really need probably is silver front and green at the back.

RSD has a fairly good spring chart on its website so you can make comparisons.
Thanks, I think as you and others have mentioned, I'll use the Associated springs to start and use an approximate spring force comparative to the Yokomo Pink and Blues, using RSD's chart. I ended up ordering the complete set, I found it for a great price, slightly more than purchasing 2 sets of springs alone.
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Old 10-29-2014, 11:01 AM   #1482
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I found the Yokomo yellow, blue and pink springs and ordered those as well. I should be covered now, mechanically. It all in my head now that needs work
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Old 10-29-2014, 11:31 AM   #1483
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
My track has a medium grip carpet surface, but see for yourself:
http://indoor-racing-senden.de


My setup is a mix of standard settings with some values being rather extreme and two changes to the car which my brain invented and which worked very well for me:



This setup originated from a medium grip outdoor asphalt track. The car was equipped with a 10.5t outdoors and later indoors, too. I did only small changes as it worked very well indoor/outdoor with 10.5/17.5t motor
wtcc, now that is a tight track!

That 6 hole 1.1mm with 35wt must be soft! Also, what's your droop over ride height when your droop setting is at 6.5/5.0mm? I see the ride height is low too (at least relative to what I'm used to). What's the minimum ride height at your track? Have you tried a PF LTC-R light weight body? Seems like that would be well suited for your track.
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Old 10-29-2014, 02:38 PM   #1484
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That 6 hole 1.1mm with 35wt must be soft! Also, what's your droop over ride height when your droop setting is at 6.5/5.0mm? I see the ride height is low too (at least relative to what I'm used to). What's the minimum ride height at your track? Have you tried a PF LTC-R light weight body? Seems like that would be well suited for your track.

You spotted some good points

Lets begin with the pistons and oil: I have a different push- and pullstroke dampening. The pushstroke is soft (six holes), the pullstroke is dampened stronger with just three holes open (normal value).

Droop over ride height is 2mm in the rear and 1.5mm in front. The ride height numbers are wrong These settings are for outdoor with a protective film underneath the chassis. Indoor I am at 5.0mm in front and 5.2mm in the rear. You could go even lower, because the car is not rolling much (at least with the CPX tires).

I have a LTC-R body, but never liked it. Even outdoor I find the Protoform Mazda6 much better. This is one of my life mysteries
But I don't have to worry about it as the Challenge only allows HB & HPI bodies. So I could only use a HB 09x body. But this one is to imprecise in the rear.
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Old 10-29-2014, 03:10 PM   #1485
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You spotted some good points

Lets begin with the pistons and oil: I have a different push- and pullstroke dampening. The pushstroke is soft (six holes), the pullstroke is dampened stronger with just three holes open (normal value).

Droop over ride height is 2mm in the rear and 1.5mm in front. The ride height numbers are wrong These settings are for outdoor with a protective film underneath the chassis. Indoor I am at 5.0mm in front and 5.2mm in the rear. You could go even lower, because the car is not rolling much (at least with the CPX tires).

I have a LTC-R body, but never liked it. Even outdoor I find the Protoform Mazda6 much better. This is one of my life mysteries
But I don't have to worry about it as the Challenge only allows HB & HPI bodies. So I could only use a HB 09x body. But this one is to imprecise in the rear.
How do you achieve your different valve-ing for push/pull?
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