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Old 08-01-2014, 09:01 AM   #1261
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Originally Posted by Pauly6401 View Post
Someone about 10 posts up asked the same question for USGT. Probably a good starting point.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/13430277-post1248.html
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:46 AM   #1262
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Hi Guys,

just finished building my TC6.2, my first Associated TC in 15 years. Very nice build, had a few small issues, but all taken care of. I am curious if anyone had trouble/breakage with the stock turnbuckle ends? I cracked one while snapping it into the ballstuds (it was the only one that did that....so maybe a fluke).

Thanks in advance

Steve
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Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-image-22-.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-image-24-.jpg  
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:14 PM   #1263
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Hi Guys,

just finished building my TC6.2, my first Associated TC in 15 years. Very nice build, had a few small issues, but all taken care of. I am curious if anyone had trouble/breakage with the stock turnbuckle ends? I cracked one while snapping it into the ballstuds (it was the only one that did that....so maybe a fluke).

Thanks in advance

Steve
Did you break it on the mold line? If so then yes get some extras if you hit the wall...
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Old 08-02-2014, 02:47 PM   #1264
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Doesn't look like a mold line crack to me. Strange.
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:33 PM   #1265
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Doesn't look like a mold line crack to me. Strange.
Ok lay the eyelet flat. The hole should be facing up. That would be the top. Most of the eyelets that have been broken around my track have been on the side of it. Where the line is in the plastic. There is one on both sides. My apologies, I did not see the pictures (i was on my phone). But Samnelso is correct.

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Old 08-02-2014, 10:05 PM   #1266
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Steve, looks like you threaded that eyelet in a bit too far and it pushed up against the eyelet opening, overstraining it and causing it to crack. The eyelets should be installed so an equal amount of thread is showing on each turnbuckle . This will prevent what you're experiencing. Additionally, be cognizant to not thread one eyelet in too far and bind up the ball stud. Make sure the turnbuckle is free once it's installed.
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:28 AM   #1267
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^^^ What samnelso said. Looking at the picture the the threads showing are not symmetrical in exposure.


I finished constructing my TC6.2 Roller last night. I have a Sanwa servo coming, just need to sort out the ESC and motor. I was mildly disappointed to discover the body post spacing is different from the TC6.1.... That means no transferring of bodies, unless I want extra holes





TC6.1 (left), TC6.2 (right)


TC6.1 (left), TC6.2 (right)




TC6.2 (top), TC6.1 (bottom)
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:59 AM   #1268
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Thanks for the input guys. Haven't build a TC in about two years so I will take full credit for that "operator error" I will still stock up on some of these ends just in case.

Thanks again

Steve
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Old 08-03-2014, 05:45 PM   #1269
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any tips from the pro's on how the free up their 6.2's for more corner speed and less pushy on a large parking lot track?

I am running Yokomo yellow front and rear blues with basically the kit setup except for inner holes on the bulkheads for camber links (long link)

Thanks
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Old 08-03-2014, 06:52 PM   #1270
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Originally Posted by TJames987 View Post
any tips from the pro's on how the free up their 6.2's for more corner speed and less pushy on a large parking lot track?

I am running Yokomo yellow front and rear blues with basically the kit setup except for inner holes on the bulkheads for camber links (long link)

Thanks
I had the same issue with a high grip treated asphalt track. I ended up running yokomo pinks in the front and blues in the rear and started with WTCC's 17.5 blinky setup and went from there. He was really helpful.
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:23 PM   #1271
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Could try reducing rear toe. Change should be pretty dramatic. Instead of 1 dot for rear outer arm mounting insert, go to -2 dot.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:03 AM   #1272
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I picked up a servo saver for this kit. Why would Associated spec it with out one?
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:36 AM   #1273
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They're certainly a good thing for tracks that run boards. With curbs or dots servo saver isn't needed. With that said, I run them on my cars as well, although I'm not sure if they actually help mitigate breakage. Today's servos certainly are not going anywhere and I probably run them more out of habit that anything. Note, offroad does not use them.

BTW your cars look good and nice camera work.
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:33 AM   #1274
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Everyone at our track broke their servos on the first few runs with the new car. Then we all got servo savers and no problems since. I agree they should have put one in the kit.
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:44 AM   #1275
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I like running the xray servo saver in my AE cars. When racing indoors it just provides extra security.

While I have not broken a servo without one, I hate when I tap a board and my car starts pulling to the side. A servo saver will minimize this issue greatly.
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