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Old 07-24-2014, 05:27 PM   #1231
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On Bob’s RROC 6.2 setup, he lists the front gear diif oil as “silicone ear plugs”. Can someone let me know what that is? And inner/outer ball and shims is listed as “silver +1” etc. What does silver refer to? Thanks!
silver refers to the color of the ball stud. silver or black. I think the silver is a little taller than the black.
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Old 07-24-2014, 06:56 PM   #1232
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can someone tell me the pros and cons of using shock fluid or diff fluid for rear diff and what weight would be good for 25.5 vta?
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:23 PM   #1233
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can someone tell me the pros and cons of using shock fluid or diff fluid for rear diff and what weight would be good for 25.5 vta?
As compared to a ball diff? I believe there are many videos regaurding this on youtube as well as many blogs the simple version is its much better and easier to tune with. Start with 2000 weight and if you need more onpower steering try 3000 keep in mind going up in weight will increase onpower steering but decrease lower speed steering, as well may cause the rear end to slide low speed, or at the beginning of acceleration.
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:33 PM   #1234
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can someone tell me the pros and cons of using shock fluid or diff fluid for rear diff and what weight would be good for 25.5 vta?
I would go with 2000wt oil in the rear
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:12 PM   #1235
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Here is the link to the ear plugs, this is what Rick uses

http://www.drugstore.com/products/pr...rk=g&matchtype
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Thank you, but how do you use these inside the gear diff?
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:13 PM   #1236
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silver refers to the color of the ball stud. silver or black. I think the silver is a little taller than the black.
Thanks! I bought the kit used and still figuring everything out
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:18 PM   #1237
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Hello all,
I have just purchased and started build my first AE TC getting the 6.2. I'm most likely have many questions to follow but start with are there other brands on gear diff's that fit and does the TC6 ball diff fit the .2?

Thanks
M.Ellis
The. AE gear diff is quite good so why ask about aftermarket? You should be able to fit the ball diff but it may bind but once again... Why use a ball diff when the gear diff has proven to be the better choice?
The car is quite competitive right out of the box. There are some bits and pieces that make the car more durable and perhaps more consistent but the best advice is to take your time, build it right and use the box stock setup to learn the car then work with some of the team setups if the track conditions are similar.
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Old 07-24-2014, 11:04 PM   #1238
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
The car is quite competitive right out of the box. There are some bits and pieces that make the car more durable and perhaps more consistent but the best advice is to take your time, build it right and use the box stock setup to learn the car then work with some of the team setups if the track conditions are similar.
I ran the out of the box normal manual setup on my track (medium high grip hot asphalt) and i could not keep a solid line. It would push in turns like crazy both on and off power. I tried changing my driving style all the time and still couldnt get it. After hours of changing the shock angles, roll center geometry, droop, different oils (diff and shock), springs, roll bars, wheel base, and some help from WTCC here on the forums i was finally able to get it to stick on the track. Im sure the outcome is different for everyone depending on their track but for me it was nothing but a headache. But on a positive note it was a great learning experience considering iv never ran on road before.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:17 AM   #1239
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Thank you, but how do you use these inside the gear diff?
He said he just cuts them up and work them into the diff, i tryed and i would prefer oil rather then the ear plugs

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Old 07-25-2014, 04:03 AM   #1240
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I want to share some small changes.

One thing that is a little annoying, are the oversized lipo brace dimensions. My Reedy battery has around 2mm space in every direction. Together with only one stopper in the middle of the chassis the battery can rub against the belt. The tape should hold the battery tight, but it is not working in every situation. I dremeled two cf braces. The rear one has an inside stopper added and the dimensions are optimized:










Another change applies on the steering. The 6.2 steering arms are located high compared to some other TCs. Fitting the steering brace under the arms will lead to belt rub. Turning the steering arms around and then fit the brace underneath will work perfectly. The next problem that occurs is the steering links rub against the inner armmounts. I was somehow lucky, as I drive the shortest possible wheelbase in front. This way it works








And my new body

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Old 07-25-2014, 11:02 AM   #1241
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Wouldn't flipping the steering rack over like that have a significant affect on ackerman?

Also, how are you running your wires under the top plate and not have them affect the flex. Every time I've tried to do that the wires end up touching when it flexes.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:41 PM   #1242
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Wouldn't flipping the steering rack over like that have a significant affect on ackerman?
No. Ackermann is not defined in height difference.


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Originally Posted by Carnage9270 View Post
Also, how are you running your wires under the top plate and not have them affect the flex. Every time I've tried to do that the wires end up touching when it flexes.
I use smaller diameter wires than normal, as it makes no difference on track (length makes the difference) for blinky stock. And I filed away the egde on both sides of the topdeck to get a wider gap.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:30 PM   #1243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GizmoTLR View Post
I ran the out of the box normal manual setup on my track (medium high grip hot asphalt) and i could not keep a solid line. It would push in turns like crazy both on and off power. I tried changing my driving style all the time and still couldnt get it. After hours of changing the shock angles, roll center geometry, droop, different oils (diff and shock), springs, roll bars, wheel base, and some help from WTCC here on the forums i was finally able to get it to stick on the track. Im sure the outcome is different for everyone depending on their track but for me it was nothing but a headache. But on a positive note it was a great learning experience considering iv never ran on road before.
GizmoTLR you have a PM.

I ran my car stock set-up and so far so good I will be at the track tomorrow for more testing.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:45 PM   #1244
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Nice mods to the TC6.2, WTCC!
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:05 AM   #1245
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Has anyone tried the green rear springs vs the silver? If so would the greens be better for a low to med asphalt track that has 180 degree corners and is very technical? I am running 30wt oil in the front with 30 in the rear with front and rear gear diffs.

Thanks Travis
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