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Old 07-16-2014, 08:18 AM   #1201
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Sorry for the rookie question(s) but here goes.

Am I to understand front Toe is calculated using the arm inserts, ie 1 dot, 2 dot or 3 dot. I guess front Toe confused me as I thought it was set using the steering arms. Clearly not I guess as the arm mounts would be easier to manage. Currently I have whatever the manual says to use for stock, should I say have +2 deg back of the car and front?

#2 Do you really have to CA those inserts in the castor blocks? I really can't see them going anywhere and they are a pain to pop out.


Finally is thoses outdrive steel spools (31638) really necessary? I don't think I have yet to even replace those items in the TC6
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:18 AM   #1202
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Not sure about it... At first I thought it should bring the weight lower to the ground, but then the manufacturers make them as light as the standard cf chassis. Then I thought it brings flex characteristics for highgrip conditions and therefore has an advantage, but commercial says it is good for low grip also So I don't know.
What I know is that it changes the car and that some drivers like it or it suits their cars setup... Until now I haven't seen someone in my region becoming faster with one. Lets wait for Christians (RSD) explanation
I have the rsd aluminum chassis. It flexes differently, (as well as flexing less than the cf one) making the car have less overall grip. As well as making the car more consistent lap to lap. The car is about the same speed maybe .1 faster on fast laps. It also helps out overall improving consistency throughout the run. I personally like how it feels when out track has super high bite, or even high bite. Medium bite I would need to change my set up to allow for the same lap times. Now its just me making driving errors, really its more stable than it was with the c.f. one without being too "stuck". Also its about 20 grams heavier than the stock one
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:27 AM   #1203
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I have the rsd aluminum chassis. It flexes differently, (as well as flexing less than the cf one) making the car have less overall grip. As well as making the car more consistent lap to lap. The car is about the same speed maybe .1 faster on fast laps. It also helps out overall improving consistency throughout the run. I personally like how it feels when out track has super high bite, or even high bite. Medium bite I would need to change my set up to allow for the same lap times. Now its just me making driving errors, really its more stable than it was with the c.f. one without being too "stuck". Also its about 20 grams heavier than the stock one
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Originally Posted by irvinew View Post
Sorry for the rookie question(s) but here goes.

Am I to understand Toe is calculated using the arm inserts, ie 1 dot, 2 dot or 3 dot. I guess front Toe confused me as I thought it was set using the steering arms. Clearly not I guess as the arm mounts would be easier to manage. Currently I have whatever the manual says to use for stock, should I say have +2 deg back and front?

#2 Do you really have to CA those inserts in the castor blocks? I really can't see them going anywhere and they are a pain to pop out.


Finally is thoses outdrive steel spools (31638) really necessary? I don't think I have yet to even replace those items in the TC6

Toe is calculated by the steering link length, the "front toe" your describing should probably not exeed 1 deg for practical purposes (set using a set up station). The front of the car with the same inssert front and back has 0 deg of arm sweep. With a larger number in the front than the back by 1 dot (2 dot in the front 1 dot in the back) it has .5 deg of arm sweep. What most people post on their set up sheets, is .5 deg there are other ways to achieve .5 deg of arm sweep. You do not have to glue the inserts in I didnt find it created more or less play, however I messed one up and realized it too late and hate to trash it. So its up to you. As for the steel spool outdrives, I believe it eliminates the bone blade, which i go through about every week one per side. The bone blades wear out, i believe they have the delrin out drives as well which dont require bone blades either. (this is in 17.5 blinky on high bite carpet).
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:49 AM   #1204
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I have not yet gotten to test on asphalt, but my car is better with the aluminum chassis on carpet.

It has a lower cg so it changes directions quicker and is less prone to traction rolling. The car is easier to push hard and more consistent and stable. As a side benefit the motor stays cooler as the chassis works as a big heatsink. This helps in spec classes where the motors are getting pushed to the max.

All the guys that have switched over at our track have gone considerably faster (1-2 tenths on a 9-10 second track).

Keep in mind that due to our chassis design, the car still has plenty of flex, and I still use our stiffer top deck over the stock one to make the car more consistent. In it's stock form, the Associated car has excessive flex around the motor mount area which makes the car unpredictable on power sometimes.

Kevin, did you ever get that second package?
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:00 AM   #1205
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I have not yet gotten to test on asphalt, but my car is better with the aluminum chassis on carpet.

It has a lower cg so it changes directions quicker and is less prone to traction rolling. The car is easier to push hard and more consistent and stable. As a side benefit the motor stays cooler as the chassis works as a big heatsink. This helps in spec classes where the motors are getting pushed to the max.

All the guys that have switched over at our track have gone considerably faster (1-2 tenths on a 9-10 second track).

Keep in mind that due to our chassis design, the car still has plenty of flex, and I still use our stiffer top deck over the stock one to make the car more consistent. In it's stock form, the Associated car has excessive flex around the motor mount area which makes the car unpredictable on power sometimes.

Kevin, did you ever get that second package?
So you like the stiffer top deck now over the softer stock one, was this derived from more testing? Does that mean you are also running more screws than the 4 and the shoulder set screw?
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:47 AM   #1206
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Yes, I am running all 4 screws. The firmer I made the chassis, the more consistent and more traction it generated on power. This is especially helpful in small radius sweeping corners when you are trying to get max grip to accelerate harder. It basically plants the rear end better. The 6.2 has a tendency to want to keep steering and not come back to center sometimes. This helps in that area.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:51 AM   #1207
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Yes, I am running all 4 screws. The firmer I made the chassis, the more consistent and more traction it generated on power. This is especially helpful in small radius sweeping corners when you are trying to get max grip to accelerate harder. It basically plants the rear end better. The 6.2 has a tendency to want to keep steering and not come back to center sometimes. This helps in that area.
Hm, cool. Good to know. So im not fully understanding why you dont run all the screws, but a stiffer top deck. They do different things im sure. Is that like an inbetween adjustment?
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:59 AM   #1208
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Rick do you have any pics on how and why this is being done
Is this just for mod / stock ? ???
I suppose it would work for all classes but not yet convinced that it is better. Is is basically a way to test different arm lengths without making prototype arms from scratch.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:13 PM   #1209
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Thanks All, for the info regarding carbon fiber versus aluminum chassis. I'm just a hack so I'm sure the carbon is good enough for me. I guess I really need to build up my kit and see if the 6.2 or other car is more to my liking.
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:21 PM   #1210
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What's on the car as it sits today....

RSD front bumper kit
Yokomo Blue springs all around
Gravity RC (Paul Lemieux) gold tiN screws & ballstuds
Blue Alum. adjustable body mounts
AE shocks w/all RSD innards
AE DCJ's on the front
Kimbrough 96t 64p Spur

New in pkg parts....

(2) sets of Tamiya TRF Special Dampers Works Edition (1 set built up)
(1) ZZRacing Titanium TC6.2 screw set
(2) complete sets of Exotek shock bottoms/tops/spring retainers (1 set on the set of TRF shocks that I've built up)
(1) AE TC6.1 Ceramic bearing set (#31379)
(2) complete sets of RSD TC6.2 Spring sets (of one set, the light blue/dark blues are on the TRF shocks that I've built up) (#RSD116)
(2) RSD AE TC6.1 DCJ's V2 (they come in pairs, #RSD070)
(3) RSD 10mm Soft Shock Bladders (#RSD012)
(2) RSD 3mm Silicone Shock O-rings (#RSD032)
(1) RSD 10mm 311 Pistons (3x1.1mm)(#RSD054)
(1) RSD 10mm 315 Pistons (3x1.15mm)(RSD055)
(1) AE Body Post Set (#31625)
(1) AE TC5 Front Belt (#31187)
(1) AE TC5 Rear Belt (#31188)
(1) AE TC6.2 Belt Tensioner Kit (#31639)
(1) AE TC6.1 Front Arms (#31356)
(1) AE TC6.1 Rear Arms (#31357)
(1) AE TC6.1 Steering Blocks (#31360)
(1) AE TC6.1 Rear Hub Carrier (#31359)
(1) AE TC6.2 Arm Mount Inserts (#31620)
(1) AE RC10TC6 Spool Outdrives (#31341)
(1) AE CVA Bone Blades (#31238)
(2) AE TC6.1 Anti Rollbar Kits (#31364)
(1) AE Shock Rebuild Kit (#6440)
(1) AE Turnbuckle Eyelets (#31305)
(1) AE TC5 Shock Bushings (#31250)

There's also an extra GEARDIFF (built up), a pair of Yokomo Pink springs, HPI Shock parts/Ball End set (#73510) for fitment of the TRF Special dampers and all the AE original bumper pcs/screws/frt axles/pistons/springs/plastics.

I can post pics of everything. And will ship if necessary (if we can't meet & greet)

I'm asking $600 FIRM....the chassis has not a scratch & for those who know, knows my $hIt is clean
Hit me up if interested

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!!!GONE...OUTTA HERE...SOLD!!!
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:10 AM   #1211
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Hm, cool. Good to know. So im not fully understanding why you dont run all the screws, but a stiffer top deck. They do different things im sure. Is that like an inbetween adjustment?
I am running all screws, stiffer top deck. The car still has plenty of flex, but much less than the carbon chassis.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:16 AM   #1212
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Kevin, did you ever get that second package?
No
I sent a request on 7/8/2014. Maybe you can check with the tracking number what the actual situation is...
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:39 AM   #1213
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Is there a certain gear diff to put in the front to replace the spool? I bought a Spec-R diff and put it in the rear and put the original rear gear diff in the front and now the entire casing wont move. Do i need to do anything different?
I have found that my Spec-R diff doesn't fit in the TC6.2 properly. It's too tight.

Just get the stock AE diff and your problem is solved. Even when I had the Spec-R diff in my 6.1, I had to machine a little off the bearing seat to get it to fit comfortably. Besides, the AE diff is much better.
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:10 PM   #1214
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I have found that my Spec-R diff doesn't fit in the TC6.2 properly. It's too tight.

Just get the stock AE diff and your problem is solved. Even when I had the Spec-R diff in my 6.1, I had to machine a little off the bearing seat to get it to fit comfortably. Besides, the AE diff is much better.
The Spec-R in the rear fits perfectly. Its the stock rear AE one that came in the kid that i put in the front thats having the problem.
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:32 PM   #1215
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The Spec-R in the rear fits perfectly. Its the stock rear AE one that came in the kid that i put in the front thats having the problem.
The front and rear bulkheads are the same distant apart. if the rear diff fits in the rear, then it will fit in the front. if it doesn't then it's something you're doing wrong. check that you are using the same cams on both sides of the diff. they should be set to the same height on both sides and be in the same tension setting or your diff will sit at an angle.
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