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Old 06-29-2014, 01:02 AM   #1156
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Sorry guys, just a little german talk with a friend and longtime AE onroad driver from another region in Germany. In the german forum where we used to chat, there is little to no talk about the 6.2, so we are looking for help here.

Speaking of help: Can someone recommend and/or post a modified medium grip asphalt setup with a ton of steering and excellent middle corner turning for a track with a lot of u-turns?
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:39 AM   #1157
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sorry for writing in german
not many AE-drivers in germany anymore - so I'm happy to find a lot of good tipps here!
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:58 AM   #1158
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sorry for writing in german
not many AE-drivers in germany anymore - so I'm happy to find a lot of good tipps here!
Haha. You speak whatever language to want. I was just poking some fun.
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:02 PM   #1159
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im highly offended by the non english words on the previous page!!!... yeah right lol i dont care im just bored

anyways;

when people put their wheelbase on the setup sheets, how are they measuring that? its it from the inner or outer parts of the mounts, or total between certain shims between both inner and outer of each mount? and how does changing the wheel base affect the car?

here is my current setup, im having a little issue with the car under steering / pushing entering turns but it pulls out just fine. however if i gear it for a lower final drive ratio i can kick the rear around and the car doesnt push anymore but i over temp my motor by A LOT... any tips?
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:21 PM   #1160
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Originally Posted by GizmoTLR View Post
im highly offended by the non english words on the previous page!!!... yeah right lol i dont care im just bored

anyways;

when people put their wheelbase on the setup sheets, how are they measuring that? its it from the inner or outer parts of the mounts, or total between certain shims between both inner and outer of each mount? and how does changing the wheel base affect the car?

here is my current setup, im having a little issue with the car under steering / pushing entering turns but it pulls out just fine. however if i gear it for a lower final drive ratio i can kick the rear around and the car doesnt push anymore but i over temp my motor by A LOT... any tips?
There's text right on the setup sheet to tell you where to measure the wheelbase. (farthest front shims and farthest rear)

Those are crazy temps for that gearing. How are your belts and pinion (tightness). I run mine fairly loose and it keeps the heat down. Just loos enough not to slip on the belts, and same basic principle on the pinion.
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:34 AM   #1161
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Originally Posted by GizmoTLR View Post
here is my current setup, im having a little issue with the car under steering / pushing entering turns but it pulls out just fine. however if i gear it for a lower final drive ratio i can kick the rear around and the car doesnt push anymore but i over temp my motor by A LOT... any tips?
Your setup looks fine to me. Similar to what I drive in 17.5t with the same effect making it faster with boost. Two things are different. One, I have thicker oil in the rear diff what makes the car turn more and two, I have 2° toe. In your case you could try 3000cst oil in the diff and see if it cures the understeer. Another small thing is to reduce Ackermann for a stronger entry steering.

I for myself are now working on a 10.5t setup and it became clear, that I have to change my 17.5t driving style for the faster corner approaching...
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:20 AM   #1162
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There's text right on the setup sheet to tell you where to measure the wheelbase. (farthest front shims and farthest rear)

Those are crazy temps for that gearing. How are your belts and pinion (tightness). I run mine fairly loose and it keeps the heat down. Just loos enough not to slip on the belts, and same basic principle on the pinion.
I just wanted to make sure i was measuring the wheel base properly. How does changing wheel base affect the car? And about the belt and pinion, i know for sure my gear meshing is set right, theres no excess whine from anything and the entire drive line moves freely. As for the belt tensions, i cant say for sure their exactly 10 front and 8 rear. Correct me if im wrong but i counted the cam from outside to inside. I believe the temps are from my crappy fan, i was running a LRP flow ESC fan, then i decided to buy an Integy fan. Since both fans were doing so crappy i ordered a WTF fan which should be shipping out today. I want to run 88/55 (3.2 FDR) which may seem like overkill, but alot of people are running 3.2 and lower FDR's.

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Your setup looks fine to me. Similar to what I drive in 17.5t with the same effect making it faster with boost. Two things are different. One, I have thicker oil in the rear diff what makes the car turn more and two, I have 2° toe. In your case you could try 3000cst oil in the diff and see if it cures the understeer. Another small thing is to reduce Ackermann for a stronger entry steering.
I copied your setup with the exception of the rear bump steering, and used my own shock and diff setup based off my track. What's the purpose of the 3mm shims? I just want to understand how that affects the car. And if im understand you correctly i should stiffen the rear end?
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:18 PM   #1163
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What's the purpose of the 3mm shims? I just want to understand how that affects the car. And if im understand you correctly i should stiffen the rear end?
If you shorten the wheelbase in front, it will give more steering. Shortening the rear will give more rear grip. Shortening both ends will make the car more agile for tight corners.

The stiffer rear end will take away traction compared to the front to make the car turn better. The difficulty here is to make it turn better without getting oversteer. For me this is about fine tuning droop, toe, diff oil, anti-roll-bar and springs.
I will try a lot of settings next weekend. If I find something useful I let you know

Which 3mm shims did you mean?
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:35 PM   #1164
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Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
If you shorten the wheelbase in front, it will give more steering. Shortening the rear will give more rear grip. Shortening both ends will make the car more agile for tight corners.

The stiffer rear end will take away traction compared to the front to make the car turn better. The difficulty here is to make it turn better without getting oversteer. For me this is about fine tuning droop, toe, diff oil, anti-roll-bar and springs.
I will try a lot of settings next weekend. If I find something useful I let you know

Which 3mm shims did you mean?
Thx for the input, and im talking about the 3mm shims under each outer arm mount.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:31 AM   #1165
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Hi Folks,
this is interesting for wtcc and all others with "rear steering" suspensions.

FILL IN THE DOT IN THE LINK
serpent com/news/13761/Serpent-introduces-the-RRS-system-for-1/10----411---Eryx-.html
The toe-in vs. ride height graphs in picture 4 are nice.

Reducing toe-in on bump isnīt really mentioned, only the opposite (increasing)
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:36 AM   #1166
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I'm selling my AE 6.2 guys...no time for racing
What's on the car as it sits today....

RSD front bumper kit
Yokomo Blue springs all around
Gravity RC (Paul Lemieux) gold tiN screws & ballstuds
Blue Alum. adjustable body mounts
AE shocks w/all RSD innards
AE DCJ's on the front
Kimbrough 96t 64p Spur

New in pkg parts....

(2) sets of Tamiya TRF Special Dampers Works Edition (1 set built up)
(1) ZZRacing Titanium TC6.2 screw set
(2) complete sets of Exotek shock bottoms/tops/spring retainers (1 set on the set of TRF shocks that I've built up)
(1) AE TC6.1 Ceramic bearing set (#31379)
(2) complete sets of RSD TC6.2 Spring sets (of one set, the light blue/dark blues are on the TRF shocks that I've built up) (#RSD116)
(2) RSD AE TC6.1 DCJ's V2 (they come in pairs, #RSD070)
(3) RSD 10mm Soft Shock Bladders (#RSD012)
(2) RSD 3mm Silicone Shock O-rings (#RSD032)
(1) RSD 10mm 311 Pistons (3x1.1mm)(#RSD054)
(1) RSD 10mm 315 Pistons (3x1.15mm)(RSD055)
(1) AE Body Post Set (#31625)
(1) AE TC5 Front Belt (#31187)
(1) AE TC5 Rear Belt (#31188)
(1) AE TC6.2 Belt Tensioner Kit (#31639)
(1) AE TC6.1 Front Arms (#31356)
(1) AE TC6.1 Rear Arms (#31357)
(1) AE TC6.1 Steering Blocks (#31360)
(1) AE TC6.1 Rear Hub Carrier (#31359)
(1) AE TC6.2 Arm Mount Inserts (#31620)
(1) AE RC10TC6 Spool Outdrives (#31341)
(1) AE CVA Bone Blades (#31238)
(2) AE TC6.1 Anti Rollbar Kits (#31364)
(1) AE Shock Rebuild Kit (#6440)
(1) AE Turnbuckle Eyelets (#31305)
(1) AE TC5 Shock Bushings (#31250)

There's also an extra GEARDIFF (built up), a pair of Yokomo Pink springs, HPI Shock parts/Ball End set (#73510) for fitment of the TRF Special dampers and all the AE original bumper pcs/screws/frt axles/pistons/springs/plastics.

I can post pics of everything. And will ship if necessary (if we can't meet & greet)

I'm asking $600 FIRM....the chassis has not a scratch & for those who know, knows my $hIt is clean

I might be willing to leave the Orca 17.5 pwr pkg in the car as well for an xtra $200
Hit me up if interested

- Bizz
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Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-tc6.2-sale.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-tc6.2-sale-2.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-tc6.2-sale-3.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-tc6.2-sale-6.jpg   Team Associated TC6.2 Touring Car-tc6.2-sale-10.jpg  

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Last edited by JayBee; 07-06-2014 at 07:58 PM. Reason: added pics
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:10 PM   #1167
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Just got it finished, thought I would share!

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Old 07-03-2014, 09:13 PM   #1168
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Beautiful paint man. I'd be afraid to race it.
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:47 AM   #1169
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JayBee, bummer to hear man.

engr, sweet!

Just a vid to bring thread BTTT. Nothin' too entertaining.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-06-2014, 01:09 PM   #1170
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Thanks guys!
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